Hello Lilcoldinak, Right now the Venus Flytrap should have gone dormant. The pitcher plant, if it is a Sarracenia, a bunch of tube shaped or horn shaped leaves growing out of the ground, it should also go dormant in winter. During winter, such plants slow down in growth and basically go to sleep, needing little light. Without such dormant periods, they tend to die back in a year. They would actually like the high levels of light there in summer, but need very little in winter. The sundew is another problem as it might be Drosera adelae, a tropical, or Drosera rotundifolia, another temperate like the Venus Flytrap and Sarracenia. Best bet is to look at some pictures of plants on cobraplant.com or californiacarnivores.com to find out what species you have of sundew and pitcher plant so you can give them proper care in winter. Tropicals can be left under the grow light and kept warm. Temperates will need that winter dormancy for about 3-4 months. In spring they will resume growth with the lengthening of days and warming of temperatures. Once you find out what kinds of plants you specifically have we can help you with more specific information about their needs. The Flytrap is just that, no need to get more specific. Lots of light in the growing season, 1/4 pot depth of mineral free water (no salt softening either) in a tray under its pot, warm temperatures of around 70-90 degrees in the growing season, and winter drops to about 40-50 degrees and less light in day length in winter for 3 months. Step down artificial light length by 1 hour a day per week in November until it is at or less than 8 hours a day or just place the plant in a window to time its dormancy. In February-March, begin stepping the light back up by 1 hour per day each week until it is over 12 hours a day or simply keep it in the window to wake up with longer day lengths. No need to fertilize any of them as too much can kill them deader than a doorknob. Repotting them should no be a problem. Press in slightly on the sides of the pot with your hands and then turn it upside down with one hand over the plants. They should fall out in your hand after a bit of loosening. Gently tease away old moss until the roots are exposed. Work the roots apart with your fingers until you get the plants apart... some roots might snap even if you are gentle, particularly on the sundew, no worries, if it is Drosera adelae it will make more plants from broken roots. I would suggest placing them in seperate pots with large water trays... about 4-6 inch pots would be good. Use only sphagnum peat moss that come unfertilized in bales in nurseries and unfertilized perlite. Mix them 1:1 and pot the plants in that after moistening the mix first. Leave the mix spongy in consistency, do not press it down too tightly, carnivorous plants like a lot of drainage and air holes in their soil. Never add regular potting soil as it always has fertilizer and is not the right Ph in acidity. Carnivorous plants most often live in bogs or fens, so they do like high humidity, but can often adapt to low humidity without difficulty. When opening a dome or terrarium cover for plants it is a good idea to open it a little every three days until it is completely open after two weeks, then you can remove the plants and they will be adapted to your home humidity. Most carnivorous plants, like Sarracenias and Venus Flytraps, can adapt to humidity as low as 15-30 percent and are often grown open pot... I grow all mine open pot, but I have 50 percent humidity here. Anyways, look for what kind of plants you have and get back with us...

Hey there Hunter, since I mix most of the nepenthes mix,I have to disagree with your observation on the mix. We use 1 part perlite , 1 part lava rock(you can substitute pumice for the lava rock) 1 part fern fiber, 1 part vermiculite 1 part LFSM. We omit the lava rock and add more perlite for mail order, to make the shipping weight less.Sometimes also use some small orchid bark to the mix. The trays they are sitting in are usually very shallow,less than an inch deep. This jest keeps the humidity increased and helps them pitcher better. In my experience, most nepenthes root systems never make it to the bottom of the pot Thanx for listening Lois

Don't pamper your nepenthes, they can take a lot of hell with ease. Do get them accustomed to growing ina particular area and do not move it around. N. Miranda has N. northiana in it as a parent and this species does not like to be moved around too much. But because this is a hybrid, they will adapt much better to their new surroundings much quicker and show positive growth signs. The reason why your plant isn't making much pitchers is because it needs nitrogen and it isn't receiving any with pitcher-less plant parts. Feed your plants with a dilute GrowMore Liquid Seaweed Extract and or Peter's Soluble fertilizer. Just a few watering applications will lead your plant in the right direction for growth and development of attractive big pitchers.

Once it flowers, it will dry up and die pretty soon. Just take the seeds and save them. Try to use as much of the fresh dill for salads, fish, chicken, eggs, pickles or whatever you like and then dry the seeds from the flowers. The dill seeds are very good to use for seasoning all winter in anything you want to taste like dill. If you save some seeds until this fall or next spring, you can use them to plant some more plants. It isn't called dill weed for no reason. It's a very easy plant to grow. The only thing is, it's a cool weather plant and short lived. So don't feel bad when it dies. Just grow some more in the fall.