Avoiding the tendency to gravitate toward watering your plants on a schedule grows increasingly important as your soil's water retention increases. More specifically, it becomes more critical as the amount of perched water the soil holds increases. On the opposite end, if your soil holds no or almost no perched water, watering on a schedule is fine for a high % of plants, as long as that schedule is such that you're not watering too infrequently. I've been watering on a common sense sort of schedule for a lot of years with no problems. In the winter, I have about a dozen plants in very small pots that get watered every 2 days, the rest, including succulents, get watered every 4 days. I'm not promoting watering on a schedule, just making the point that you CAN, when you remove the cause of concern when you water on a schedule - perched water. You DO need to keep a mental picture in mind when you water soon after repotting. It's important that the soil is moist where the roots are. Often, I'll repot a plant with an intentionally flat root system. Since ALL the roots are in the upper inch or two of soil, the first fraction of the soil to dry out, it's very important that I water as often as needed until the plant's roots colonize the deeper part of the soil, so I might water daily for a week or two - until the plant gets its feet under it. It's really hard to beat the gritty mix for houseplants, and succulents in particular seem to really like it. Al

you’re either referring to the law (in Washington State, anyway) regarding rental properties, or you live in some place that has uber nanny legislators. And seriously? YOU don’t think YOU are smart enough to know what temperature YOU want YOUR hot water in your home? Any who, I don’t want the dishwasher to turn the electrical heating element on. Electricity (unless your using magnetic induction) is an inefficient way to heat water. It is better for my house to use hot water from my tankless HWH. I have a tankless HWH that will produce 190° hot water if I set it correctly. I have a dedicated line from the manifold that natal led between the heater and the Case Acme temperature regulator. I send 160° water to my dishwasher, and washing machine. (I also have a dedicated line that supplies 160° to a separate faucet on my sink that takes the place of the under sink contraption that crapped out a while back. (120° is the legal limit? Don’t tell InSinkerator. I doubt those gadgets they make can even go down to 120°.) I would use 180° water but I am afraid the water temperature alone might melt some plastic ware and also damage some synthetic fabrics. Here’s a thought, when it comes to how YOU choose to live in YOUR house, man up, and grow a pair.

Thanks all, for the input. No pics at the moment. I think either watering more often or including more pine bark, or adding such as turface or pumice is the answer. These are two-inch diameter trunks planted as a forest, and they had meager roots when I removed them from the old pot with poor soil, so I don't want to disturb them for a year or two. I will just water them more often and see what happens.

Do not pull them out to see if they rooted. If you really have to know, just tug cutting gently - just enough to feel if there is any resistance. If yes, that means roots started growing and are anchoring the plant. If I had some cuttings in water, I would take them out and set them on some paper towels to dry off. They could be gently wiped off too. I would then make sure stems are not too soft or discolored - that is likely sign of rot. If some parts are, they should be cut off or possible mold/rot could spread. After a day or so, I would stick them into mix. I prefer to let them callus first, since 'open wounds' are easy to get infections. I do not water rootless cuttings for a while, usually when the roots started to grow or some new growth is visible - that usually happens when some roots have grown. Without roots, there is no 'transportation' of water to rest of plant. I have at least 45-50 pots of cuttings right now (few have more than 1 cutting) and all look like they are rooting. Some I am sure of - they have been potted longer, some I just potted in past few days and it is too early to tell. I do not use any rooting hormones or fungicides; sometimes I dust lightly with cinnamon powder, but only on big cuts. This is how I do it and have to say that vast majority of cuttings root - leaves or stem cuttings. Maybe not 100%, but definitely over 90%. There are few plants that are more difficult to root, but pretty well all I can see in your photos should.