In my personal experience, you can grow cephalotus as you would grow a pinguicula Moranensis, However.. Cephalotus dislike being waterlogged for periods of time. So what i do to water it, i just Over-head water it and let the water drain, after that, i place the pot sitting on its saucer in my room's sunny/bright window for atleast 3-4 hours of mourning sun.. and that is that.

Thanks Sheldon. i 've been growing that vft bigmouth in a window sill that gives 4-5 hours of sunlight. I had to repot it from its clay pot since the pot didn't fit in a ziplock bag so i repotted it into a 4" inch plastic pot and placed it in the fridge from January through March. it produces different trap sizes Fairly between 1" inch traps to 1" 1/2 traps. the plant it self is pretty large indeed. i wish i could update my red dragon pics but i can't. would love to see some of your plant's pictures.

i never had an experience like that, but acclimating it again to its original humidity and lighting(as if you were growing it along all the time) just give it some time. it will recover, slowly.. but surely. i grow my new cephalotus in my bright/sunny windowsill. i water it over-head watering everyday.. but i don't soak it wet. i keep its soil moist though. during the mornings, my cephalotus gets about 4 hours of morning sun. the rest is bright shade. my window has a cool/sunny/bright environment. my cephalotus grows fine along with my butterworts, and it does fine along with them. hmm.. to be honest, i never grew a cephalotus in terrariums before. :) but that's how mine grows.

Ok. Here's the rack in the kitchen: And a close look into the fishtank / terrarium: How much light actually hits a surface is a function of the distance from the bulb. The closer the bulb is to that whatever- The more light that whatever gets. Here's a pic: At 1 foot we've got 1 lumen, right? Let's call that 1 square foot of surface. Now move that bulb 2 feet away from the surface and suddenly that same amount of light is trying to cover four square feet of surface, thus effectively we have 1/4 lumen per square foot. The further away the bulb is the smaller the amount of light you get on the same size surface. So. Those shop-lights at Lowes or Home Depot? They're good for a shop. Not so much for growing plants. The 'standard' shop-light needs 2 forty watt bulbs (not included) so you get 80 watts of output spread over 4'.. 20 watts per foot. Yes, the ballast comes with the light & the whole thing is usually less than $10, but you have to buy the bulbs. Some don't even come with a reflector so 1/2 the light goes... Somewhere else. They're Great for a shop or garage where you want some light over a large area- They suck for a spot where you want every bit of light you can get on a small area. Those little 'spiral' bulbs you see hanging in the pic? 23 watts each from a point source. So I've got 60 watts hanging about 4" from the plants in the terrrarium. If I was using a shop-light sure I could just get one & use it to light the whole shelf on that rack. But if the terrarium is 1' wide so I would only have 1' of shop-light above it.. So 20 watts of light & since I can't lower that light into the terrarium the source would be about 12" away from the plants. Back to the 'light output' pic above for a minute- 60 watts at 4" Vs. 20 watts at 12". With the shop-light I've got 1/3rd as much light output 8" further away... Not good. Plus a box of 4 'twirly' bulbs is about $10... Same price (without the bulbs) as that shop-light. Yes, if you are going to use those twirly bulbs you need the sockets & a cord. I'm using a 12' extension cord- One of those ones with 3 plugs on the end... They're $2 at Home Depot. The sockets can be hard to find- I got mine at the local plumbing & electrical shop for $2 each. Just split that extension cord & slap 'em on: Makes it pretty easy to hang them wherever & raise / lower on a string. Put your hand under the bulb at the plant level- If you can leave your hand there comfortably then the bulb isn't too close & won't burn those plants. So $10 for 4 twirly bulbs + $2 for the cord + $8 for the sockets + $20 for the whole setup. Want a timer? Cheap ones are $5. So $25 for 80 watts of light? That's hard to beat. The whole idea is to get the most light possible as close as possible to the plants. Which is why I bought a 250 watt metal-halide setup for a fishtank.. I'm in the process of building a reflector for it & whence finished I'll replace those twirly bulbs with it. Have to have it about a foot away as it puts out lots of heat, but I'll still have more light hitting those plants. If you are wondering- My 250 watt setup will cost me $40 for the ballast (ebay) & $20 for the bulb- so $60 for the entire light. Now I got the ballast as a "kit".. Had to put it together. Also have to build a reflector & a socket for the bulb- Which has been a bit tedious. With my time & everything call it $100. Not too bad for 250 watts. Years ago I built a big (ish) terrarium with a bunch of twirly bulbs & some shop-lights.. Even a misting system controlled by a humidistat. (there's a how-to coming by special request about controlling something with a humidistat) check it out here if you wish its at the bottom of the page. I didn't seal the bottom very well apparently as it began to leak after about 6 months.. And allll those bulbs created way too much heat which I had to get rhid of which screwed up the humidity. A learning experience. ~Oh. In the plant rack pic? That round circline bulb on the far right? (hiding behind the decrepit passion flower) Ya don't bother with those. They're expensive, only 22 watts and frankly kindof suck. For ease of use + price the 23 watt twirly bulbs are your best bet.