Ian - Indeed that is wet haydite. I should snap a pic of it dry for comparison. I find it quite attractive in my mix and have used it for top-dressing on a couple of "dressed up" plants that I know have sharp draining soil below. I used to use Turface, which is also an excellent grit, just not as attractive. NY - Trying to ship 40lb sacks might get expensive. I suggest that you let your fingers do the walking! Start with your local parks and recreation dept. Get a number for the dept. that maintains the ballfields. Where you find baseball, you will find turface or haydite. Also, haydite has a website that will assist you in finding the closest retail dealer. Here's a couple of addys to read up on it. www.haydite.com www.youkoubonsai.com/haydite.htm SnB gave you the reason why these type products are so desirable in soil mixes: "this type of top dressing tends to suck up the water more than straight grit. This may make it easier to see when there is still moisture in the soil, which can be handy with winter growers. It will also make the soil dry out faster since there will be continual evaporation from the surface instead of it drying out and trapping moisture." And what it does as top dressing it does throughout the soil when used in your mix. It's smooth and uniform, allowing for quick drainage but holds a tad of moisture for the plant to draw on. It dries quickly and is very is to "read", though as Ian pointed out, it is not 'the soil' that needs water but 'the plant'. HTH - Jo

Bamboo, The Poet and Doctor John, as is his wont, offers some sage advice. Of my two dogs, one likes to do as he cites; this dog especially also likes to roll in fresh bear poo (bonus info). Alyceus, You can cut them as low as you wish, but remember, given your location, it's going to be a fast grower, so you're going to be maintaining it quite often. And while I'm not trying to dissuade you (well, not completely) from using this plant, its nature is to grow to a shortish (15' or so) tree, so using it as a low-growing component in your garden is perhaps an element you might wish to consider again. Additionally, to reiterate John's advice, wear a haz-mat suit or similar when doing this work - different folks react to the Euphorbia sap differently, but for most of us the sap of E. tirucalli is going to make for a painful interaction on the skin - on any mucous membranes it's much intensified. The sap of crushed leaves of Aeonium lindleyii is a palliative for the burns, because if you work with it enough you're going to get sapped, and that's the only non-emergency-room treatment that I know of.

Hmm, yes, well, now that you're truly terrified ... :) Perhaps the jumpsuit if you are going to prune with a chainsaw, but more realistically make sure you don't get the sap in your eyes or mouth and wash any off your skin immediately. Some people get skin irritation, some don't, but you don't want to find out three days later when you come out in a poison ivy rash. Given your situation I think you will be pruning now. Either that or the plant will be out in the frost, right? Prune away, keep the cut areas dry and warm. Keep the whole plant dry for that matter. Watch carefully for any signs of infection on the cut stems and be prepare to cut again and dust with sulphur. Its unlikely you'll have any problems. The cut pieces can be stored until spring if you want to root them. You could try rooting now with bottom heat but if they do root before spring they will grow etiolated which you don't want.

The water requirements of any indoor cactus is determined the amount of sun light it gets,which you did not mention. Cactus receiving 5,000 foot candles, the measure of light, which is about 1 foot from a south facing window, should be watered every 3-4 weeks. Greater intervals with less light but at least once every 2 months. To adequately moisten/wet the soil in the pot, place the pot in a container with enough water to just cover the pot, allow time for the soil to absorb all the water it can hold, remove from the water and allow to drain. What is most important is the that the soil reach it's maximum water holding capacity.