I know that both Kalmia polifolia (swamp laurel) and Kalmia angustifolia (sheep laurel AKA lambkill) will grow in wet soil or even part-time very shallow water. IME both are smaller and less ornamental than Kalmia latifolia, mountain laurel, but mountain laurel likes moist well-drained soil. I think if your site is too wet for rhododendrons, it will also be too wet for mountain laurel.

Hey Jenna, If the clay pot has no drain holes, then definitely leave it out of the decorative pot. Like Zeba said, in a decorative pot without drain holes, the water will just sit there and the plant will sit in that water, which will quickly lead to root rot. The organic material in most potting mixes, usually peat, acts very similarly to a sponge. Even if the soil in the pot is dry, if the pot sits in water it will actually wick the water up into the pot...until the soil can't hold another drop. This is really bad for plants that live on a quick rain shower and where that water runs almost instantly through the soil--then it's gone. Zeba also had an excellent point about the soil mix in general. I was skeptical at first of special cacti and succulent mixes at first, let me tell you, they make a tremendous difference. One of the biggest reasons is they are much closer to the soils in which these plants naturally grow. The mixes just can't hold a lot of water at one time unlike regular potting mix, which unless you're really careful, will take too long to dry out between waterings. The commercial mixes at big box stores are a good step in the right direction, but I've always found them to be temperamental to water. So recently I started using a blend called "Al's Gritty Mix", which is fantastic. You can buy premixed bags of it on amazon and eBay, but the recipe is open-source so you can also make your own! It follows a ratio of 1:1:1 of the following: pine bark fines (local pet stores often carry small bags of it for reptile and rodent bedding), course sand (note this isn't like beach or sandbox sand, but much courser in texture. Again, very small natural aquarium pebbles at a pet store work best.), and a material called "turface", which was the hardest for me to track down. There are apparently several different types of this material and only one will not break down when exposed to moisture. Basically they're kiln-dried clay pellets, which will provide the bulk of the mix's water holding abilities. It's a very cool material because it releases water it's absorbed well over time, and once dry, it wicks moisture away--perfect for a succulent mix to keep the roots from staying wet too long. The two best sources I've read from other gardeners are Wal-Mart's Great Value Kitty Litter and Napa Auto Part's shop spill absorbent. I've been using the original OilDry pellets, but I'm not sure if they're still available. Al's test though to see if the pellets would disintegrate after use was to place a cup of the pellets in the freezer overnight, then allow them to thaw. A second test, is to pour half a cup of water over a cup of pellets and wait two days. The pellets should return to their original state after both tests, if not, they'll fall apart into this soggy clay mess, which you don't want in your mix! Sorry for the long post! The last thing I wanted to mention is that looking at your picture again, I agree with the others that your plant looks light deficient. The first time I was traveling and didn't get too good a look at it. I apologize for that. A sunny window sill will work just fine, but it will need to be a south or west facing window, where you're plant will receive direct sun at least 4-5 hours a day. Hope this helps! Best wishes

The best mix for a hoya is actually soil free. Pick up a bag of fine grade orchid mix (Lowes sells a good orchid mix made by Gubler, get the one in the blue bag). Hoyas are NOT cacti and succulents, and they should not be treated as such. There are some hoyas (austalis ssp. oramicola/rupicola) that would rather be watered once a month, and some hoyas that are very thirsty (buotii, lasiantha, praetorii, javanica/multiflora) and do best grown semi-hydro. The average hoya (carnosa, pubicalyx, most pottsiis, obovata, etc.); however, does best being watered once every 7-10 days. Hoyas are tropical/subtropical plants, and as a rule, they thrive on heat and humidity. There are also exceptions to this rule. Hoyas are epiphytes. In nature, most hoyas grow up trees, using their aerial roots to attach to the trunks. Because hoyas are epiphytic in nature, soil should be avoided or used minimally. Hoyas need a well-draining, airy mix that will provide their roots with enough moisture and areation to prevent rot. The issue with using soil, even when it is mixed in with perlite, is that it compacts. Every time you water, the smaller soil particles sink to the bottom of the pot, compacting together. This leads to blocked drain holes and can cause root rot. The key to a successful, well-draining potting media is to make sure each of your ingredients is the same size. This is another reason I am fond of my mix (1/4 inch orchiata bark, 1/4 inch new zealand sphagum moss or 1/4 inch hydroton balls, and 1/4 inch perlite, one part each...so, if I make 3 cups of mix, it is one cup each ingredient). My mix is expensive, and, unless you have over 300 hoyas, you don't need it (heck, even I don't need it, but it works for me, so I stick with it). I suggested an orchid mix as a substitute, and hoyas do very well in orchid mix. The average hoya should be fed 1/4 strength fertilizer at every watering. I use MiracleGro water soluble tomato food (1/4-1/2 TEAspoon per gallon of water) because it is inexpensive and provides all the micro and macronutrients. The reason you feed at every watering is because in nature, hoyas are fed naturally, in very small amounts. The mists from the jungles run down the trees, and onto the aerial roots of the hoya. Inside this mist water, macro and micronutrients from vegetative decomposition and animal excriment, nourish the hoya in small amounts. Flush your plant once a month to rid the pot of any excess fertilizer residue. You do this by watering the plant for 2-3 minutes straight or soaking the entire pot, plant and all for 2-3 minutes. Hoyas also, for the most part, prefer being rootbound. This means if you repot, don't use a pot bigger than 2 inches larger than the rootball. They like it snug. When you get ready to repot your hoya: *Soak your orchid mix overnight. This flushes out any ecessive tannis that may be present in the bark. It also rids the mix of dust. *The next day, drain and rinse your mix thoroughly. *Remove your plant from the pot. Gently rinse as much of the old potting mix/soil off of the rootball. At this time, check the roots. They should be firm and lack any foul odor. Also, check the stem where the roots attach from. A wee bit of yellow coloration is okay, as long as the stem is firm and has no foul odor. If the stem is soggy, peeling, black, or has a foul odor, you may need to restart your plant entirely by taking cuttings. *Set your plant aside. * If you are using a new pot, soak it in a 1:10 part bleach water solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water) for 10 minutes or so. Rinse thoroughly. If you are reusing your old pot, rinse all the soil off first, and then soak in bleach water solution for 10 minutes or so and rinse. *Add 1 inch of your orchid mix to the bottom of your pot. Place the rootball of your plant in the pot. Add a bit of mix at a time, gently shaking the plant and pot to get the mix thoroughly around the rootball. Once the rootball is thorougly covered in the mix, top off around the base of the plant, if needed. *Wait a week and water.

Denise, as I said, only my H. rupicola is in sand. In nature they grow amongst sandstone rocks where the only soil is weathered sandstone, ie sand. They need fast draining soil otherwise they rot. I had tried them previously in more 'normal Hoya mix' but lost them. David Liddle told me to treat them as I found them in nature, and they haven't looked back since.