I would say "overwatering"...At those temps.. Being close to a cold window and draft has never affecetd mine. That is where they stay always.. If your soil has collaspe which most do with peat in it, just after 6 months, then your soil is holding more water than you think watering once a week and it will cause healthy leaves to just fall. This use to happen to my citrus too.. I only water mine once every other week at this time of year, in a gritty mix in a full sunny window..Your problem has happened to me on a few times occasions prior to switching to a much durable soiless mix.. I would get your plant out of that pot and change the soil if you suspect this a problem asap, or water much less frequently and hope your roots heal over time..;-) I hope yours gets better soon. Mike

It seems to me that plant is still not receiving enough light. There are signs of etiolation on the newest growth - too bad, this is the time that plants should be getting plenty of outdoors - when possible, of course. Etiolated branches are typically weak since they are skinnier than they should be, and droop. I think you did good job repotting and using rocks to support it. I would have used shorter and not so deep pot (sold as azalea pots IIRC), but one you have is OK. After maybe a week or so, I would start introducing it into much better light. If possible, outdoors. If it doesn't get more light, it will keep growing same way. Using the size of the pot as a reference (you said it is 10" - hope that means diameter?), I am guessing the plant is approx. 15-18" tall, and canopy approx. 12-14" wide at the widest point. I have few of that size, and they are in 5" square pots - by now, some are getting small and not very stable. They need to be repotted - they were about 1/2 that size when potted into existing pots. Regardless, the branches are not droopy. Here is a photo of a plant that is 21" tall, in a 6.5" round, plastic pot. It is likely going to stay in it - it isn't toppling. Branches are sturdy:Potted in a very gritty mix (chicken grit+perlite in equal amount, and approx. 15% turface); outside since end of May, in full sun and any rain we got so far - quite a bit this year. Drainage is good, and all plants seems to look better.

Hi North 53! The good news is that jades can bounce back from dehydration better than lots of plants, so yes, there is hope. How were the roots when she broke them up? Did she add new soil and repot them? I'm assuming that's what you mean. You do need to be careful about the soil they're in. Please share that detail before we advise on ongoing care. I'm assuming also that they got a good watering when she repotted. When was that? You can check soil dryness by sticking a wooden chopstick orsharpened wooden pencil down into the soil, leaving for a few minutes, and pulling out. If wood looks wet, no need to water.

"It's a bit hard for me to comprehend how the shape/angle of the same volume container changes the amount of water that's retained in the soil." This image ^^^ illustrates the maximum ht of the PWT any given soil supports is always the same, regardless of pot size or shape. Which of these pots would make it more difficult to keep succulents (or any plant, for that matter) happy/healthy? The bonsai pot. Reason: After a thorough watering, about 75% of the soil is saturated. In the standard pot, it's maybe 15%, if that. This image ^^^ also illustrates a PWT is the same ht for any given soil (unless you 'trick' the excess water into leaving the soil by way of ballast, wicks, or other simple tricks that set the laws of physics to work in your favor. To see how the shape of the pot affects how much perched a water a soil can hold, compare the funnel (C) to A. Both pots are the same width, and the PWT is the same ht in both, but there's a conspicuous difference between the 2 insofar as the amount of PW in play. It might be that pots taper toward a smaller base than rim because it's easier to get them out of the mold, but I like to think people long ago discovered that pots that taper hold less than pots with straight walls ..... on a per soil basis. The overturned pot that fits snugly in the bottom of a larger pot probably reduces the volume of soil that is capable of holding perched water by 2/3 - 3/4 in the example. "....... do you think the plants would get shocked too much if I keep taking them out and messing with them? The jade in this discussion had no visible thick roots and I'm worried that if I try to take it out again and wash out all the old peat (like Rina said) I will damage the little roots it does have." Transplant shock isn't that big of a deal and is related to root pruning or damage to roots during the repotting process. I'm with Rina in thinking it's not such a good idea to avoid addressing issues related to root function and root health. If your soil doesn't allow you to water correctly because it's excessively water retentive, you'll be in a constant battle with your soil for control of your plant's vitality. Because most succulents are very efficient at retaining water, it's not likely the added stress of another transplant will be what ultimately decides whether the plant retains or forfeits its viability. I think root rot would be the larger concern because it's obviously in play, based on how you described the root system. "..... what if the water doesn't come out the bottom when you water (even if it seems to be a lot).... or if the water immediately drains out and doesn't seem to be retained at all?" Rina covered this well. As some soils dry, they shrink to the degree there is a void between the root/soil mass and the inner wall of the pot. If you water and instantly see water exiting the drain hole, you need to take steps to ensure the entire soil mass is saturated, then drained. You might need to allow water to drip or trickle on the root mass for a half hour or so, or soak the planting in a tub of water with the water line in the tub about even with the top of the soil. Al