Barrier for new garden plot against chain link fence
indyspirit
13 years ago
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canadian_daisy
13 years agoindyspirit
13 years agoRelated Discussions
ground cover for 8-12 inches between chain link fence and wall
Comments (20)I wouldn't mind having a better look at that wall before suggesting something with a lot of root mass, like daylilies or shrubs. There is not much lean on that wall and pressure from within is the last thing you want. I've been poking around my rock walls and garden lately and have noted how much root mass is tending to migrate to areas of consistent dampness. For example, I have a pot standing next to a plant that has a bulky root mass, and although the plant can grow best where there is light, the woody base has pushed itself under the pot. Quite intriguing. In your situation, this tendency is aggravated by the downhill slope, which is where water, and thus roots, will go. Therefore a plant that spreads by stolons would probably not grow uphill, but you may not want to risk it - so none of your Houttuynias or St. John's wort, for example. Something that mats, in contrast, could easily by mowed by the neighbour (or their mowing people). A couple of matting plants that I have had good success with are a spreading veronica (note to self and others: do NOT google "spreading veronica") and a matting dianthus with bright pink flowers. Not sure how they would handle full sun in your climate, but the moisture retention of the rock would help. I think the thymes would be OK too. Which way they spread would partly be determined by the sun - they would grow primarily toward it. I agree that the sedums are not as weed-suppressing as you might think. One that might be would be Sedum 'Angelique', and there are others. Sedum acre would probably also work - but as Yardvaark's description of how to root it suggests, it is rather easy to propagate and so your neighbour's mowing might get it all over her yard - so easy to miss a bit that falls. 'Angelique' will also root where it drops, but because it's bigger and not as fragile it is easier to control the bits. All ground covers need periodic haircuts to avoid getting leggy, woody, and sparse. KarinL...See MoreCovering a 30' x 7' high chain link fence
Comments (9)Sweet potato, morning glory, moonflower are all Ipomoea, so multiplying your vines with cuttings would work for any of these. With the extra wait since morning glory and moonflower are usually started from seeds, the sweet potato can give some quicker results because it is usually bought already growing. No reason to not have all 3 kinds if you like. Like any vine, their tendency will be to grow straight up and leave naked space below. If you give them a little guidance when you think about it, you can direct vines sideways for more coverage of the fence. Once they have some length, more than a few leaves, pinch off the growing tips to inspire side shoots to form. Occasionally pieces of vine may droop out toward the yard. Tuck those back into the fence, as low as they will go, to keep the coverage as solid as possible from top to bottom. The Clematis should be back next year, hopefully ready to do a little more growing but your disappointment this year is understandable. Everyone wants instant results! Bamboo - something like concrete or metal going deeply into the ground would be needed as a barrier to keep it from taking over your lawn. When you're tossing morning glory and/or moonflower (should you decide to use either,) there's no reason not to toss other flower seeds, something more to help cover the bottoms of the vines and fence. Just keep an eye at first to guide the vines up the fence instead of the other plants. If you put some landscape timbers or other kind of border separating other plants from lawn, it will be easy to keep tidy and trim against. If placed slightly sunk, the mower tires can run along the border to eliminate trimming an edge....See MoreShort retaining wall and chain link fence
Comments (12)"Posted by matt_m (My Page) on Sat, Jun 8, 13 at 0:11 I really appreciate all of the advice. We are situated on a hill, near the top -- in 10 years, flooding has never been an issue, but it has with people who live further down the road." Engineering is an exact science, based upon assumptions, and in that light an engineer is required to provide a design that budgets for and meets the minimum design criteria for the area in which you reside. IE., overturning moment; at heights over 6', wind governs, so the design will budget for the installation of privacy slates or removal of the fence fabric and wood panel placed between the steel posts, which is a common design alternative. "(one an engineer at Sunroc)" I would urge you to seek the advice of a private professional civil engineer. " the winning idea is a 8" - 10" deep footing, 12" to 16" inches wide, with a 6" block wall or concrete wall on top of that, centered on the footing, with rebar uprights every three or four feet, as well as at least two bars the length of the footing and at least one bar lengthwise in the wall." With the exception of the 2nd piece of rebar in the footing, this is a typical "garden wall", not a retaining wall. Generally speaking, a wall less than 2'6" in height "is not" considered to be retaining. No soil added around the trees! Just running the wall in a straight line down the property line. "putting the posts directly in the wall" Which would be ok, except that you have something called "cost", which is the required embedment of rebar in masonry walls, which is 2" and cannot be attained using 6" block. "I might as well pour a concrete wall!" Not hardly! "One thought I had was this -- if I build the wall on my neighbor's side of the property line (he doesn't seem to care one way or the other, especially since I'm doing all the work and paying for it), is it then his wall?" If you are, indeed, contemplating this, you need to obtain and easement based upon the final wall design, because if you take a "disney land" approach to this, if you have a lender for you property, you'll find them defending ONLY their intreats and NOT YOU. There are prescribed and restricted "drain fields" which are designed to protect "downstream" home/properties from from natural occurring moisture from affecting that habitability. Those exist in your case and must be addressed. It's called "hydrology", and will be addressed by an engineer. "Not sure about how that would affect things." You, in addition to an engineer, might want to have a chat with a real estate attny....See Morepainting a chain link fence
Comments (16)Good point arcy. We get along well with the neighbour and I am well versed in the art of persuasiveness. She has a tendency to do what she wants with her yard and not take us into account. A few years ago she built a deck without permits that is right up to the property line, if not over it. She closed in the base of the deck all around except on our side so we had to do it ourselves or be faced with a view of the garbage under her deck. We could have had the deck removed, but chose not to. She built her garden up beside the chain link fence so that the weight of the dirt caused the fence to push into my garden by about 6 inches. I pointed it out to her, and I helped her (actually, I did it, she watched) dig out the dirt and put in a solid barrier so it wouldn't happen again. So the upshot is, that I will present it to her in a persuasive manner. If she protests, I think I have enough leverage against her to make her see that we have put up with a lot from her, she can put up with this from us. If she wants her side painted black, I will happily do it for her. I've learned that with close neighbours, it is worth the extra effort to get along. It causes too much stress otherwise....See Moreianna
13 years agobev_w
13 years agomadtripper
13 years agogoren
13 years ago
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