It is 2 different situations. Bottom watering by sitting the containers in an inch or so of water for a short period of time is what is recommended. Then remove them from the water. The gravel discussion is only for those few plants that either a) require excess humidity or b) will be left unattended for a period of time, say 2-5 days of vacation. The use of gravel plays a minimal, if any role, in average garden seed starting. Lighting as discussed in the How to get started FAQ and the Lighting FAQ is 99% of the time only fluorescent ie: 4' 2 tube shop lights. There are many discussions here about this that the forum search at the bottom of the page will pull them up along with pics that many of us have posted of our light set-ups. That is all that is needed for seed starting. LEDs and special grow lights or special colors only come into play when one is growing full grown plants inside under lights and need to encourage blooming etc. Mirrored sides??? Never heard of anyone using them yet millions start their seeds without them. Simple aluminum foil, the $2 mylar camping blankets, even white paint can all help with light reflection but the benefits are nominal and none of them are required for any reason. Well water is no problem. It is hard and chlorine free. It is artificially softened or some city water that can cause problems. Most packaged seed starting mix, what the majority use, and potting mixes are already sterile when you buy them. They are sold that way. If you mix your own out of non-sterile ingredients or use old mix then some recommend first treating it with boiling water. Seed starting can be as simple or as complex as you or the folks selling equipment for it want to make it. As with many things in life, simple is best. :) Dave

"Can I transplant them now or should I wait until next spring?" Don't do it now!!! Now is the very worst time of year to move trees and shrubs. The best time is probably fall or early spring. --------------------------------------------------------------- "What is the best way to dig them up - just dig up a big ball of soil surrounding the roots?" Pretty much. Here is my generic guide that will give you an idea of how big the rootball needs to be. Soil type, tree species, and other factors are not taken into account: For trunk diameter below 1/2", multiply the diameter by 20 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 1/2" and 1", multiply the diameter by 18 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 1" and 1-1/2", multiply the diameter by 16 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 1-1/2" and 2-1/2", multiply the diameter by 14 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 2-1/2" and 4", multiply the diameter by 12 to get approximate rootball diameter. Here are guidelines for rootball depth: For a rootball with a diameter of 1', depth should be approximately 8". For a rootball with a diameter of 2', depth should be approximately 1'. For a rootball with a diameter of 3', depth should be approximately 15". For a rootball with a diameter of 4', depth should be approximately 18". --------------------------------------------------------------- "Once I transplant them do they need water everyday? How much water do they need? I am sure it depends on weather conditions but generally speaking what do they need?" You need to check your soil. I will provide a link below that should answer a lot of your questions including this one. Let me know if, after carefully reading the page, you have any more questions. --------------------------------------------------------------- "Should I use a fertilizer when I transplant them?" No!!!!!!!! They'll be stressed enough after being transplanted. Fertilizer would only further stress them. The best time to fertilize is after you have a soil test done to determine why an otherwise healthy, well-established plant is not growing vigorously enough. Do mulch your trees properly after you transplant them!!! Besides providing enough water, mulching will be the most important thing you can do for the longterm health of your trees. Mulch -improves soil fertility and texture as it breaks down, -prevents germination of many weed seeds, -reduces competition for food and water from grass and weeds, -reduces erosion, -helps to maintain soil moisture during dry periods, -often aids drainage by preventing surface crusting and sealing, -can keep roots cooler during hot summer weather, -can help to moderate soil temperature fluctuations, -reduces frost-heaving, -reduces certain soil-borne diseases by preventing soil and fungi from splashing onto foliage, -prevents damage from mowers and trimmers, -and improves the look of the landscape. Here is a link that might be useful: Planting a Tree or Shrub

Lots of good ideas here. Thanks! Joann - thanks for the picture. That is what I was envisioning, but I like having an example. I never considered green as the main wall color, but I like the idea. I'll have to find a subtle green though. I don't want the color to be too loud. I love the image of the stripes provided by dawnp. That is very do-able for me. I will involve my son in the selection, after I've narrowed down the choices. He picked the bedding, but has told me that he wants rainbow walls (not gonna happen!). I think he'll like the stripes in the example from dawnp. Maybe I can find some nice tans and greens for the colors. Les - we originally had the furniture as you suggested, but when you entered the room the edge of the chest made it feel blocked. But I do like the idea of creating a space in the corner for activities. Once we paint I'll play with the furniture arrangement again. Maybe it would be better if I placed the chest against the wall to the left of the table, rather than on an angle. What do you think? I'm on the hunt for a small book shelf. I'll also look at removable decals that would be fun for the next few years, but can be removed as he gets older. I'll look at shagreen once I find my samples. Thanks bestyears. This is why I love this forum! I've been looking at his room for a year now without any direction. Now I have it! Thank you everyone. I'll keep checking back in case anyone else has further ideas or opinions.

deandr, thank you for your last post. I am sorry I offended you. Please, though, read carefully! You wrote: "your analogy was offensive ... anyone who believes its tacky to see a 23 year old at prom with double mastectomy scars, enjoying the short precious life we all share, is to say the least a pretty FOOLISH person!" Foolish I may be, but that is not what I wrote. Here is what I did write: "I am afraid that if you try to go back and do it now, you will just feel foolish, like a 23-year-old going to the prom she missed because she was in the hospital." Do you see the difference? I am not saying I would think ill of a bride who had a reception 2 1/2 years later (or for that matter of a 23 year old who went to a prom). I didn't write about my opinion at all. I wrote only that I was concerned that SHE might be disappointed at how it will make her feel if she has a traditional wedding reception now -- it just may not fill the void as she hopes. That is the focus of my post, and everyone else's posts, on this thread. She is going to do whatever she wants (and she should), and no one told her not to. She asked our opinions, and we gave them -- not that it would be tacky, but that she might not be happy with her choice. I think if you stick around this forum, you will find that nearly everyone tries hard to be polite and helpful. Just please make sure you have understood posts before responding to them. Have fun at your celebration, too! When will it be?