"Two of the three "champions" have spoken. Truth means nothing to them so they make up their own stories." No one has made up any stories. "Of course, none of this matters to a "champion". They have their lies to keep them busy. I do not have any daylilies anymore." Well said, and now that you no longer have any Daylilys, you probably don't have much to contribute here, maybe you could find a philosophy or negativity forum somewhere. I'm sure you'll be a hit there. I guess you'll never win a Stout now either. Wade, you have some serious issues, please do yourself a favor and try and get some help. Read this carefully.... "To be different, or a non-conformist, we have to sacrifice. You can't walk the fence and have any integrity. You can't pursue your own agendas. You have to basically lose everything. You have to take on the monster we have become. "Champions" pop up at every corner to protect the status quo because that is where the personal investments are. The common person expends their energy protecting the illusions they live in. I decided a while back that there just isn't anything important enough for me to play the selfish game anymore. Money means nothing to me. It is just the vehicle that takes us to the next day. Erosion is a word that describes the quality of life. Lies are the most valuable items we use each day." You really need to stop elevating yourself and quit looking down on other people just because they don't share your negative views and opinions of everything. Excuse me now my coffee cup is half full, I think I'll go top it off.

From my stash of notes on plant diseases  Zonal Rust (fungus) Symptoms: Reddish-brown lesions appear in circular patterns on leaves. Dusty reddish spores can be brushed from spots. Control: Avoid wetting foliage. Provide sunny growing location. Use only disease-free cuttings. Prevent infections by spraying with ferbam, mancozeb, oxycarboxin, or triadimefon.

christine's cannas, red ones with green foliage, are total hummer and butterfly magnets! she gave me some tubers, which i dutifully planted in a butterfly area. i also grow the orange one with slightly variegated foliage. they are REALLY tough--grow in full afternoon sun, NEVER watered, and look great, even this time of the year (probably b/c they don't get watered). they go dormant when it's too hot/dry, but will come back quickly. their blooms are sometimes disappointing, but the foliage alone makes them worth growing. this is one of the truly tough plants in my garden... i'll try to remember to dig tubers for trades, since they are crowded in their present location.

I am going to assume you didn't know about Cedar Apple Rust before you planted the trees, but just for the benefit of others who might be wanting to plant apples or crabapples, the best advice is to think long and hard before you do it. Because cedar trees are widespread in our state and very invasive, it is very hard, if not almost impossible, to grow healthy apples and crabapples here. I love apples, but have lived here for 10 years and never planted one because I don't want to deal with cedar apple rust. Since you've already planted the trees, though, you have to deal with it. So, in answer to your questions: I don't think it is possible to control it on the cedars themselves. What you can do is remove the cedar apples (the fungal growths, also known as galls) before they form horns. If they have already formed horns it is too late. And, if there are cedar trees within about 2 miles of you, the disease can be carried through the air, so removing the cedar apples from the infected cedar trees near you may help a little, but it won't prevent airborne cedar apple disease spores from infecting your plants. You can spray your crabapples with a fungicide that is labeled for use on crabapples for the prevention/control of cedar apple rust, but the spraying has to be done at very specific temperatures and at very precise times. I believe the spores transfer most readily when temperatures are in the 60s. The fungicide most readily available to homeowners for Cedar Apple Rust on crabapples is cholorothalonil, most often sold as Daconil, and often used by vegetable gardeners, for example, to prevent Early Blight on tomatoes. I think you also can use a different fungicide called Bayleton. Just read and follow the label directions IF it is not too late, weatherwise and temperaturewise, in your area. Even though your crabapple trees are new to you, they actually are several years old by the time you buy them, so the application of a fungicide following label directions should not harm them at all. Just be sure you dilute the fungicide and apply it as directed. The entire life cycle of cedar apple rust from cedar tree to its transferrence to apple trees takes almost 2 years. It is an ever-present threat. It is the reason you don't see vast orchards of apples in Oklahoma. Of the two crabapples you plante, I think Prairiefire is considered highly disease-resistant and Profusion less so. However, disease-resistant only means the tree has some resistance, not immunity, and even disease-resistant trees can and do get diseases. Cedar Apple Rust is the main cause of rust on apple trees, but you also have to watch out for the closely related Cedar-Quince Rust and Cedar-Hawthorne Rust. They are controlled/prevented by the same fungicides. Please understand though that even the regular application of fungicide is no guarantee the trees won't become infected. Understand also that cedar apple rust is not something that will be a problem only once. If is an issue for your trees one year, it probably will be an issue for them every year when the temperatures are in the precise range that allows the spores to transfer and infect apple trees. Only you can decide if you want to deal with the cedar-apple rust disease every year, or if you'd rather cut your losses and replace your crabapple trees with some other kind of tree that is more disease-resistant. Good luck, Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Info on Cedar Apple Rust