well what to you mean jolt?? have they produced any fruit yet?? so what are you looking to do cause massive growth or intense fruit set?? also you know M.G is not organic right>? not saying its bad cause i use it in my own garden.. one question how do you irrigate your garden. flood.... impact sprinkler or any sprinkler system , micros ect... or drip?? i only ask cause most fertilizer that you buy as a granular example like 15-15-15 is slow release and has to be watered in and side dressed along the plants not touching them that is bad and will burn or kill the plant. on the upside granular is probably the most safest to use for a first timer. that being said if it is organic it usually doesn't have as high NPK values as inorganic but i would use the same technique as the inorganic. liquid on the other hand is A instant release and uptake by the plant and should be properly administered to the plant other wise you will do more harm than good. personally i use liquid but i do it in a way that will not harm my garden i've done a lot of research and i'm lucky to work for a agricultural company that sells many ag chem and fertilizers for comercial farmers. i have installed a drip irrigation for my entire garden except my corn due to the fact i flood irrigate it, and installed a mazzie injector system where i inject liquid fertilizer into my irrigation system fertilizing my garden and watering at the same time two birds with one stone. also keep in mind that i do this every time i water just about cause the rate of fertilizer i'm giving the plants is very little i double the strength of the M.G in a gallon of water then i inject it at a rat of 3 gallons an hour this combines the one gallon with about 50-75 gallons of water have traveled through the system so it is quite watered down and is why i do it just about every irrigation. and i find it works well my garden is thriving even though i've been plagued with pest.

There will always be zealots in the anti-biosolids area that are long on "it might be a risk" or Europe's standards are lower,yet they still fail to produce real hard data. For example, what they leave out is the load limit of some of these metals, such as copper and lead in class A and even class B biosoilds. You would need to apply Milorganite EVERY year or some other biosolid like it for 345 years for lead and 278 years for copper for it to reach its EPA load limit. That doesn't even account for organic binding, mineralization and leaching/migration of the metals harmlessly in the soil. I don't know about you, but even with long life in my family, I doubt I will be around that long to worry about it. I use Milorganite on everything and I have even seen the independent report and have spoken with an independent scientist who tested it for a bioremediation project for the DoD. She indicated it was lower in metals and other contaminants than the tap water and virgin soil they were going to use in the project. Compare class A biosoilds to Scott's or Ironite sometime and decide which will be better to put down as fertilizer for your kids or pets to play around. BTW, the National Science Foundation did an independent study and risk assessment in 1995 of EPA biosolids regulations and found they were far below any levels that would possibly pose any threat to humans, wildlife, soil or water and agriculture. The zealots seem to overlook this fact as well in their quest to malign well managed practices of biosolid use. There has NEVER been a documented case of the regulated use of biosolids causing harm to people, animals or plants in over 35 years of use in our environment-yet the myth and junk science persists. I will continue to use and benefit from Milorganite on my lawn, veggies, ornamentals like temperate tropicals and palm trees.

I am a big proponent of Dr. Earth products. I've had the opportunity to meet "Dr. Earth" (Milo Shammas) and talk with him at length about his products and his gardening philosophy. While there are a great many suppliers of blended organic fertilizers around, I would opt for these (and recommend them frequently in the course of my business) before most others. Much of it has to do with the amount of research he has devoted to developing the various forumlations and the fact that his products include various microbes and fungi that expedite the assimilation of the nutrients regardless of soil/gardening conditions. Having said all that, I personally do not use Dr. Earth products very extensively :-) I just don't need to.......regular applications of compost as a mulch seems to provide all the nutrient supplementation my garden requires. I have used the Organic 3 formulation from time to time on heavy feeders like roses, lilies and clematis and I periodically use the Organic 4 (Rhodo/Azalea/Camellia) to maintain proper soil acidity for the acid lovers in my garden and provide necessary trace elements. But the Organic 7 is a good, balanced all purpose blend (4-4-4) that can be used in virtually any gardening situation. And I do use the liquid fert for hanging baskets, containers and houseplants - weekly for the outdoor containers in season; perhaps once every 6 weeks during the growing season for houseplants. I like the stuff and have never had/seen any issues with it and would not hesitate to recommend it as an organically sourced nutrient supplement, should you require one. IME, Dr. Earth products have a very limited sales market (by choice), focusing on the west coast, although it is available by mail order from some sources. Where are you located in zone 5 that you are finding this product?

"Here is a link that might be useful: Hydroponic Fertilizer : What I Use & How to Mix It" That may be useful, although the guy mixing it adds that he is better at counting tomatoes than doing fertilizers. Better just stick with this to get your NPK: If you are using an all-in-one 20-18-38 fertilizer and you wish to replace it with an organic fertilizer, just take the *weight* (whether liquid or solid) of the fertilizer you seek to match and get an equivalent weight of the organic fertilizer as follows: for N: if you use say 10 grams of N=20 and your organic is N=8, you will need 2.5 times the weight of the organic fertilizer. This is because the organic is only has 40% (8/20) the amount of nitrogen. Do the same with the phosphate and potash. For example if I have an organic fertilizer with (A) 5-0-4 rating and another with (B) 0-3-2 and I want close to 10 grams of 20-18-38, I will need 4 times A plus 6 times (B). The result will be: 40 grams of (A) plus 60 grams of (B) which will give the equivalent of 5*4-3*6-(4*4+2*6) which is 20-18-28. It doesn't give the exact K of 20-18-38, but it gives the same nitrogen and as a bonus P as well. If you were concerned about the K you might try 50 grams of (A) plus 70 grams of (B) instead which would make 25-21-34 if I did the multiplication right. getting exactly the 20-18-38 is not really possible as you can see but you can get things pretty close. The important thing is to get an organic fertilizer which has a guaranteed analysis. Cole has already mentioned that plenty of other factors are in play and the organic may be less or in some case more bioavailable, so it isn't as much a degree in chemistry as attention to detail and being and experienced cook which means you've had practice testing the limits of what you can put in the broth and still have it be good.