Root health depends on several things, but the most important of those factors involves a triangle that can work for you or against you. Soils based on fine particles don't hold enough air at container capacity. Container capacity is the state of water retention in the soil after the soil has been completely saturated and has just stopped draining. Soggy soil kills fine roots. When air returns to the roots, the plant spends energy it shouldn't have to spend to regenerate new roots - so a cycle of death and regeneration develops that's extremely costly to the plant in terms of reserve energy. During the soggy period, roots can't effectively take up water and the nutrients they need, which are dissolved in water. Poor root function often leaves the plant unable to keep distal parts, like leaf tips and margins hydrated, so leaves often develop necrotic areas that spoil the plant's appearance. The 3 sides of that triangle I mentioned are your choice of soil, your watering habits, and your nutritional supplementation regimen. All 3 of these important considerations are firmly linked to the each other and affect the others. If you can get them right, your job suddenly becomes much easier and the rewards for your efforts greater. Your margin for error becomes significantly more forgiving as well. You should be growing in a soil that allows you to water at any time of the year, such that the entire soil mass is completely saturated and at least 15-20% of the total volume of water you used to irrigate passes out of the pot through the drain after complete saturation. Get to that point, and the rest is as easy as choosing and using an appropriate fertilizer regularly. Almost all of the problems (health, appearance, insects, disease) described in this forum are related to poor root health. A plants best protection against disease and insects is a robust metabolism, and the metabolism of a high % of plants are suppressed by poor root health. As below, So above - Healthy roots Are what we love If the link I'll leave below makes sense, I'll link you to another thread that goes into detail about container soils and water retention. Gaining an understanding of the information in that thread probably represents the largest individual step forward a container gardener can make. Without question, it transformed my growing experience. Al Here is a link that might be useful: This one first

The non-Jade looks like a Haworthia. The Jade plant is a small-leafed (aka compact) Jade. It could be Crosby's Compact. Josh

This is the critical time, cut back on water, and put plant in bright shade. These next two months will be the critial months. Hold way back on water at this time. No peat moss, nothing that holds water and builds humidity. At this time of the year we hare having 105F to 108% we think is will cool down in the next two days, our humidity is up as well. I really think the next 3 mo. will be critical, but the plant back about Oct 1 when you see a cool down trend. It like to be crowded in the pot in order to flower,it likes cool night down even 30F it will tolerage a light frost if it isn't wet, you will see batter colors at this time of the season as well. if you have time look for previous posts regarding'Jade plants' There has been enough written this past year to write a book, hint, hint , hint to all of you who read this. I haven't been responding to 'Jade' questiions. Norma

It looks like there may be some sort of root damage or root infection. However, I'm still learning myself and interested to hear what others with more experience say and/or would do to save it...