Should I replant this Camellia? peat and soil conditioner mix
Bama_Joe
9 years ago
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luis_pr
9 years agoBama_Joe
9 years agoRelated Discussions
MiracleGro Potting Mix versus SuperSoil Potting Soil ???
Comments (9)Do you have an easy recipe of making your own mix for a gardening-beginner? Yes. I would recommend using what is known around here as 'Al's 5-1-1 mix' for annuals and perennials grown for just a year or two before being repotted. For plants that will stay in the same container/mix for more than 2 years I would recommend what is known around here as 'Al's Gritty mix'. The 5:1:1 mix is 5 parts pine bark (very small pieces), 1 part perlite and 1 part peat. The gritty mix is 1 part pine bark fines, 1 part Turface MVP and 1 part grower grit (#2 sized). For more information on this I will refer you to this thread. Don't get too hung up on specific ingredients and percentages. The principle is using ingredients that will be of a large enough size (above 1/16th inch) for as long as the plant will be in the mix. This provides superior aeration. The higher the percentage of organic matter such as peat or bark, the faster the mix breaks down and aeration suffers. The bark breaks down much slower than peat though. Anyway, read the thread and you will learn a lot. If you can't find suitable ingredients to make your own mix in time to get the season started then just get the regular MG potting mix and take until next year to learn more and locate sources for ingredients you want....See MoreUsing Peat Moss to amend soil?
Comments (46)I second Wayne's hands-on experience. I have rock-hard alkaline clay, pH 7.7, high in magnesium. The soil is so hard that it broke my large rototiller machine, and a shovel. My husband used a pick-ax to dig holes. 12 years ago I planted 6 rhodo. and azaleas. I brought down my pH by mixing 1/2 peatmoss. I never water those acid-loving plants, they are still alive. This year I used acid-fertilizer FOR THE FIRST TIME to increase the blooms and foliage - they have tons of buds now. I have a large rose garden with 42+ roses. Since roses are fussy, I move them around or dig them up to gargage them in my zone 5a winter. I made many holes: 1) pine mulch mixed with clay gave the fluffiest soil and best root-growth, thus most blooms. Pine bark is dry at first, but once decomposed, it retains water. A rosarian faxed me the ARS paper on field experiment on a large scale that documented dryness of pine bark at first, but once decomposed, it retains water. That's why the large Ball professional potting soil has 45% COMPOSTED fine pine mulch. Another hole with 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 pine park, 1/3 native clay .... Six months later I dug the rose up: the soil is fluffy, but rooth growth is less. Another hole with 1/3 coarse sand, 1/3 pine park, 1/3 clay, then topped with alfalfa meal. Six months later I dug up, and found tons of earthworms. Several holes with 1/2 peat moss and 1/2 clay. I dug the rose up: Root growth is restrained, soil is still compact. Another hole with 1/3 grass clipping, 1/4 peatmoss, 1/4 alfalfa meal, and native clay. This glued up badly, soil became more compact. The grass clipping is innocent, the culprit is the fine particles of peatmoss and alfalfa meal which binded with the high positive charge of magnesium in my clay soil. Alfalfa meal is high in calcium, and calcium precipitates in alkaline clay, making phosphorus unavailable for blooms. Why I do such experiments? I majored in chemistry for 2 years before getting my B.S. in Computer Science. It's fun to use my chemistry background to experiment in the garden. I second everything Wayne wrote. He's right, experience and ACTUAL TESTING over many months is the best teacher....See More511 mix peat, potting mix or turface
Comments (49)Bruce, I was just reading your post in this thread. You mention screening out the particles less than 1/8". BE CAREFUL!! Remember you NEED at least some fraction of those particles in the 1/16" - 1/8" range for the mix to bind (and for retention). My mix calls for 1/2 part of bark in that range to be included, but that can be altered to increase the retention - if desired. Also, I'm seeing quite a bit of large diameter particles in your mix...beware of the ping pong balls dude! Are you passing it through a 1/2" mesh? If your product is comprised of too high of a concentration of larger particles...you may have to add another intermediate level of screening...say 1/4" to ensure that your larger pieces comprise only a moderate fraction of the total mix. Notice the amount of chips that are equal to or larger than your quarter? Quite a few, right? Notice mine. There are only a few pieces that are even half the size of the quarter. The more particles that you have in your mix that are similar, the better. You want to avoid too many large particles and too many small particles...the goldilocks zone is what your looking for....juuuuuust right. PJ...See MoreMold on Sans. soil; should I replant it?
Comments (13)My experience with mold in potting soil has been a little different than this, but maybe is relevant. I've seen multiple times with multiple high-end potting soils, that after first potting a plant up, mold, somewhat like what you have, appeared on top of the soil. This could be because the soil was too wet, but I don't feel I watered any more initially than I do after that. Every time I have seen it, I just re-fluffed the top of the soil and let the pot dry out a bit. After that, I had no more problem with mold in the pot and the plant did wonderfully...no harm whatsoever. I do agree with some of the above posts, that the soil doesn't look ideal. I don't know if that is partly an issue with the photograph though. I have taken pictures of plants before and had the soil look unrecognizable in the picture. I've even went back and looked to compare the picture with the actual view, wondering if I was loosing it. Nope, sometimes pictures of soil just come out weird. I don't know if that is the case for your Sans or not. Anyway, if the picture is accurate, I'd probably be more worried about the soil being the wrong soil than I would be about the mold. I'm sure some mold would be bad for plants, but I doubt (just based on my experience) that yours is a problem....See MoreBama_Joe
9 years agoluis_pr
9 years agoBama_Joe
9 years agoluis_pr
9 years agoBama_Joe
9 years agotheoriginaldawgone
9 years ago
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