lettucebabies, you have not killed any of the plants...yet. Here are my thoughts. Lettuce: the seedlings appear to want more light. They seem to be growing towards the right and front of the container. You can rotate the container or expose the whole (gradually!) to more hours of sunlight. The watering seems to be OK because of the color of the soil surface and there is no evidence of water collecting in the saucer. The seedling at 'one o'clock' appears to be suffering most. The one at 'five o'clock' might be a different variety from the rest and may be the type most suited to the conditions that you provide. Incidentally, there is a fungus (damping off) which attacks seedlings at the soil line. One way to protect the seedlings is to sprinkle a thin layer of sand over the soil surface right up to the stem of the seedling. This keeps the stem dry. You might try that now as a precaution. Lettuce is a 'leaf crop' (the leaves are useful) and a 'short crop' (30 days or less to maturity). Therefore nitrogen is the most important element. One choice is to apply a slow release all purpose fertilizer at transplant time or else apply a liquid fertilizer at weekly intervals. I favor "Osmocote" 14-14-14 at transplant time. Zucchinni: There is nothing noticeably wrong here. The 'seedleaves' have brown edges but this is normal. Their function is to provide nourishment until the true leaves begin to function; they then wither away. The true leaves are well-formed, nicely green and the youngest ones are 'clean and green'. The dark coloring of the soil around the plant indicates that watering is concentrated in this area. I would suggest that the watering be spread more evenly over the whole surface of the container. It makes for 'better use of the water used'. Basil: The only explanation I can think of is "sunburn". Is it possible that the plants were exposed to bright direct sunlight for even a short time? This can happen on the trip from the nursery. The plants are put on the floor of the back seat in full shade. But during the journey home they get some exposure which can be enough to cause sunburn. Although its leaves are the useful product, this is not a leaf crop; treat it like a tomato or pepper seedling as far as watering and fertilizing are concerned. The holes on the leaves are caused by insects, typically beetles. The leaves develop their fullest flavor when grown in full sun and not over-watered. The "Earthbox": In my opinion the symptoms on the plants are an indication of conditions in the box itself - set up and operation. It can sometimes be difficult to get the fertilizer spread according to the instructions; it can also take some time before the water distribution functions properly. Sometimes top watering is necessary. The very sick seedling nearest the watering tube might be suffering from moisture stress or fertilizer burn or both. The seedling next in line appears normal and healthy (just look at that growing center). Then the third in line looks wilted. Only you can know if the fertilizer was applied in the narrow band down the middle of the box and whether the soil mix was put in to promote even watering from the reservoir and if the refilling has been adequate and timely. But in time the system settles down to a routine of adding water to the reservoir and keeping a sharp look out for pests. You should get a very good crop of beans; indeed I think that you will have to remove every other plant in order to obtain quality beans. But time will tell you if that will be necessary. I only wish that my first attempt at growing black-eye peas was that successful; I over watered the container and earned an "F" in Gardening. Will you please tell Mr. Griffith how far I have come? That is, if you yourself think so.

I totally agree with aztreelvr. Overall, at least from the pictures, the tree looks pretty good. It should be showing signs of growth by now since planted in August, an indication of establishment. New trees require more water. The watering area should be expanded to the ends of the tree's canopy, which will also tell you where to fertilize the tree as the feeder roots are out at the canopy. Fertilize Valentines Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day. I give small doses of fertilizer monthly in the warm months for faster growth. I'll foliar feed with fish emulsion and water it in too. Plants love it. I assume the tree is NOT in a low spot where water will settle around the trunk for days, which can cause disease like gummosus. Stick a screwdriver in the ground around the tree. If it comes up wet, don't water it. You CAN reduce water now that it is winter. With the warm days we were having (still), I would water once every two weeks, but it just DEPENDS on your particular soil conditions, sandy, clay, drainage, etc. Last winter for example (really wet and rainy), you didn't really have to water much. Just keep an eye out for warm/dry spells in the winter that we can get here. Being relatively new, it does NOT have a strong root structure to pull nutrients, water, etc. DO protect the tree the first year from frost then, as it will be quite a bit more susceptible to damage due to age. DO put two stakes on either side of the tree and eliminate the one that follows the trunk. DO use green landscape tape to tie to the stakes on either side allow the tree to sway in the breeze but not so much that it can break. The tape is quite flexible and strong. This is how it will build strength and not damage the trunk. DO wrap cardboard around the trunk to protect from sun as the tree does not have the foliage to do so (as it is new). This will protect the graft too. DO enjoy your lemon tree. Hope this helps.

okay...it's the kind with really long, thin, green leaves that are like blades. There were two flowers at the top. They were bright pink in color. It looks to me like it's the kind with "cups" that you could fill. The leaves are shaped so that when I spray water over it, the water collects at the base of each leaf. The pot it came in is very small (about 5-6 in) and the plant fans out very wide. Does this help??? Thanks so much!

I'm sorry but it doesn't sound promising :-( Not sure how large of containers we are talking about but warm(hot) weather and exposure to late afternoon sun can dry them out very rapidly. They may need daily watering. I'd recommend planting them in the ground ASAP if that works for you. Helleborus x hybridus is less adaptable to container culture than some of the other hybrids but any hellebore would prefer a permament, inground planting location. xhybridus is the least sun tolerant as well - morning sun and afternoon shade is preferred, not the other way around.