Since I also do plastic I might add my two cents. Once you get to the point your worms are comfortable in the bin and not finding some on the floor the next morning but just a bunch up on the lid, you might want to not lock the lid on . I never lock the lid anymore as plastic sweats and makes it too wet for the worms comfort. Since I leave the lid cracked or pulled back leaving 1" or less cracked I hardly ever see a bunch of worms on lid like they want to escape. Certainly nothing like when I locked the lid on. I also have a good bit of shredded paper to cover any soil or added food. I prefer that to cardboard , thats just me. Leaving the lid cracked dries out the paper so doesnt hurt to re mist the paper or leave it dry either way seems to work. The added bedding helps to deter gnats, flies, etc.

I would be a bit careful using any used cat litter, even if you flush the poop down the toilet. Cats carry a disease (toxoplasmosis?) that is not killed in the composting process and is trasmittable to humans. I therefore wouldn't want to put compost like that in a vegetable bed or anywhere that it might get into the human food-chain. I would even be careful about handling the worm compost for fear of getting sick. If the cat takes any medication to rid her of worms, guess what, it will kill your worms too. I do have a worm bin just for dog poop which I am trying as an experiment. I haven't yet harvested any compost from it and I don't grow any vegetables so I am still unsure what I will do with the finished product. Right now it is out in my backyard where the nightime temps get down to freezing, so not a lot of activity happening there while my "supply" of dog-poop grows beyond the worms appetite to eat it. I can't blame them.

If the vet is not concerned, I wouldn't be! I don't agree. Our Ragdoll Lily has been pooping on the floor outside her litterbox for a few years. We took her to the vet thinking it was a kidney problem, the vet said she was fine. Three weeks ago she started losing weight rapidly, we took her back to the vet and she is in renal failure and had kidney stones. The hospital we took her to said the stones had been there for a long time, and her left kidney was dead. This was an ongoing process, something I should have gotten a second opinion on two years ago. YOU know your cat, if something doesn't seem right it probably isn't. Some cats are naturally thin, Lily has always weighed between 8lbs 4oz and 8lbs 7ozs; we were always amazed that she held her weight so perfectly, but she lost over 2 lbs in less than two weeks. Lily seemed fine other than the litterbox use, but in my heart and gut I always knew she wasn't 100%. In the past two weeks Lily has had surgery to remove the stones and flush her kidneys, has had 4 ultrasounds, will be on subcutaneous fluids for a long time if not forever (I had to learn to insert the needle and give her the fluids), and all this would probably have been prevented if I had followed my gut feeling and taken her to another vet. Get a second opinion.

That's just silly. I'm sure you could estimate how long it will be until your dog would weigh enough to need the next higher dosage. I weigh my dogs myself by stepping on the scale, getting my weight, then picking up the dog, stepping on the scale again, and figuring the difference. One of my dogs weighs 45# and I can still pick her up easily. I would talk to the vet and explain the distance you have to travel. Wasting your time is one thing, but depending on the type of car you have, an hour round trip is probably costing you $10 or more in gas! That single pill is really close to $20 when you factor that in. If he still wants the weight monthly, you could call it in and they could mail you the pill for the cost of a postage stamp. If he still refuses, is there another vet in the area?