How do I permanently kill native milkweed?
grandmothers_rose z6b
12 years ago
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grandmothers_rose z6b
12 years agoRelated Discussions
I'd rather not kill my blueberries - so how do I plant?
Comments (23)Here's my take on the agricultural sulphur/ferrous sulphate and iron chelate. Agricultural or elemental sulphur will provide more acidifying power per pound of material applied, however the soil microbes have to convert it from the sulphur form to oxides of sulphur, which can then act to acidify the soil. It takes time for the acidification to work and it will occur over a period of time, you have to get the sulphur into the ground for the microbes to attack, and the effect will be a bit longer acting. The larger the sulphur particles you spread, the slower the process. Elemental sulphur is relatively cheap so is often used agriculturally. We generally use sulphur strictly as a fertilizer to replace what the crops are removing from the soil, being leached away, or tied up into mineralized compounds, plus it is relatively low volume. As a fertilizer, we often apply it at 30 lbs/acre. Another option is to use gypsum, calcium sulphate, which is commonly used to treat highly alkaline/saline soils as it is quite cheap, acidifying, and provides additional calcium. (In moister climates where soils are more acidic, they do the opposite, applying lime -- calcium carbonate-- to raise the pH). When applying gypsum, we would apply it on the order of 1000-2000 lbs/acre or more. With ferrous sulphate, you have moved up a step in cost but you are providing sulphate ions (or is it anions?) that will provide the acidifying effect, and because it is already converted to a soluble and ionic form, it will work quite quickly. At the same time, you are providing free iron that the plants can take up and the acidifying effect of the sulphate slows the process of tying the iron up in the soil. Many soils, particularly in alkaline areas, have plenty of iron, but it is tied up in the soil and unavailable to plants, and that is the situation here. We have a lot of red soils, the red coming from oxidized iron (rust). There is no deficiency of iron but it is mineralized and unavailable. Combine that with a pH of around 8 or higher and there are a lot of plants that will die of iron deficiency. Conifers, golden willows (lost a row of them in the cemetery to that, and nearly lost the spruce trees), petunias, raspberries, and even kentucky blue grass where the lawn is only sprinkler irrigated, for example. With iron chelate, you have a form of iron that is more available to plants, however it is relatively much more expensive. The chelate can be absorbed into the leaves if used as a foliar spray, though too strong a solution will burn. Because it can be pretty well directly absorbed by the plants, it can have an almost immediate effect on new growth. I've seen it recommended to water the ground with the iron chelate, but I think it tends to get tied up in the alkaline soil fairly quickly (I think the chelate breaks down fairly quickly, then the high pH ties up the iron again, and you need large quantities which become quite expensive. I had always had recommendations from the extension service to use iron chelate for iron deficiency, but later I was advised to use the ferrous sulphate by a professor for the combined free iron/acidifying properties. When I used the iron chelate, I never had much in the way of results unless I sprayed weekly at least, and that just doesn't happen with me. With the ferrous sulphate, I could spread it once and see lasting effects for anywhere from the remainder of the summer to several years. Part of my lawn is watered with a sprinkler using well water which is very high in lime. Gradually it turns yellow and thin with iron chlorosis. Fertilizing with nitrogen had no effect. Add some ferrous sulphate and in a week it was turning green, growing like it was badly overfertilized, and the stand thickens up. One year my supplier stopped carrying the ferrous sulphate but had ferrous gluconate and said it was much easier to use and worked the same--so I wondered but tried it. Think I still have most of the bag. It showed no effect on the plants, smelled like molasses and had no irritating dust so I found a new supplier for the ferrous sulphate (I'm not going to apply it if I don't get results). I don't fully remember my chemistry from school, acids/bases, oxidizers/reducers, strong vs. weak acids & bases & the chemical reactions that take place when these chemicals are placed in solution and I'm sure there are those out there that can more than adequately cover the subject (not that I'd want to learn it all over again, though!) I mainly try to cover some of the principles and describe what has worked from experience. Plus, I've never tried to grow blueberries as trying to provide an acid environment in my soil seems like too high a maintenance. Overall, what is being dealt with here is that in drier climates, the soils tend to have a large reservoir of lime and an alkaline pH. Acid loving plants may not need acid to live, however they consume quantities of minerals which are mineralized and unavailable at high pH, but become readily available at lower pH and blueberries have adapted to soils where these minerals are readily available. Trying to lower the pH of the soil to create an acid one suitable for blueberries is very hard, because to make the soil acid you have to essentially eliminate the alkaline lime in the soil, and it will take tons of amendments to do that. To compensate, you remove the soil, replace it with organic matter which is naturally acidic, then work to counteract the ongoing process of your climate and geology from turning the new acidic, organic soil back into an alkaline, mineralized soil and add a few of the more important nutrients the plants need so that they are readily available, even if the pH is a little higher than the plant desires. One last caveat--in acidic soils, NEVER add ferrous sulphate for an iron deficiency. You don't need more acid (unless you actually want a more acidic soil). Use iron chelate or the ferrous gluconate. Sorry this is much too long, but hopefully it explains the basis of my thoughts so you can judge for yourselves what is best in your situation....See MoreHow do You Clean Native Milkweed Seed for Storage?
Comments (12)I usually wrap the pod (only when dry or it'll mold) just as it splits in a coffee filter. Key words = just as it splits. I can fit multiple pods in each filter; just keep wrapping them around each other until they filter is full. For those I don't catch fast enough, like last year, I put them in a paper bag with some coins and "shake the snot out of them" too. I haven't found this to be somewhat effective, but there's plenty of seed I must dig out myself. Those that are wrapped in the filters for a few days/weeks, are rather easy to separate, since they stay intact and somewhat closed, but still, must be done outside. I try to grab the fluff by the seam and pull it out; the seed normally all falls into my cup. It's time consuming, but I'll just hang out on the deck, soak up some rays, and pull, pull, pull. I try to do this with a bit of wind, but not to much ;)...See MoreHow do I kill weeds without killing the weeds I want to keep?
Comments (1)Best way--and hardest work--is to just keep pulling the bermuda grass out. Water well, then start pulling when the soil firms and water has soaked in a bit. There are a number of herbicides that target grasses, however few of them have labels for flower beds. In some cases, the grass herbicides will also have some activity against certain broadleaves, so if you go off-label and just try something, you might get a few of your flowers as well. You might look at Preen in a small area as it is recommended for grasses, but don't know what it may do to the plants you want....See MoreOne example of "How To" germinate native Milkweed Seed
Comments (3)James, that must be an old post or offering. I do have this plant and the vines do produce a lot of seed but I don't have fresh seed from last year, otherwise I would be happy to send some to you. I had a house fire and was away from my property all summer while the house was being repaired. I don't know how many vines survived the summer. Will have to see, once spring arrives. There is another lady who frequents this forum who usually has fresh seed. She is the one who so kindly shared seed with me several years ago. She may see your post and respond if she has seed to share. It is a wonderful little vine and the pipevine cats love it. I think you would enjoy growing it. Mary...See Morerunmede
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