I explained this in detail again, as I have many times before. I have always been clear on the fact that those growing in heavy, water-retentive soils who CANNOT flush their soils regularly when watering are not candidates for continuing to fertilize during the winter. My words are being twisted into something I never said, and would never say, and then an argument made against the words put in my mouth. This is a very common tactic lately. Those of us discussing fast draining soils know and understand through common sense and practical application that frequent fertilizing of these open soils at low doses while simultaneously flushing the soil allows growers taking advantage of these soils to keep fertility levels in the low adequacy range at all times while keeping nutrient ratios to each other at favorable levels, also at all times. This allows the lowest possible EC/TDS levels without nutrient deficiencies and ensures that soluble salt levels do not climb to levels that make the uptake of water and nutrients dissolved in water difficult for the plant. Does it get any better than that? Are nutritional deficiencies and toxicities, no control over EC/TDS, along with virtually ensured rising pH preferable? This issue was/is being played as though I was suggesting everyone should fertilize all winter long, regardless of what type of soil was being used, which couldn't be farther from the reality of what I said. I have a thorough understanding of the importance of EC/TDS levels in soil and have been managing and helping people manage them in free-draining and well aerated soils, as well as in heavy, water-retentive soils for years. If anyone has been lead to believe anything other than what I just described, they have been duped. There are dozens on dozens of threads in which I clearly explain why you CAN fertilize at every watering using soils like the 5:1:1 and gritty mixes (and I usually add "if you wish") and why you cannot follow this practice when using heavy soils. I have too many containerized plants to fertilize at every watering in the summer, but in the winter I fertilize at EVERY watering (gritty mix) and have been doing so for going on 20 years, so to suggest you can't or shouldn't is to argue with reality. I offer the hundreds of pictures I've posted of plants with perfect foliage and color as exhibit 'A'. The point has always and forever been clearly granted that this approach is INAPPROPIRIATE with heavy, bagged soils. I've ALWAYS flat out said that you cannot use this approach with water-retentive soils. It is very difficult to manage EC/TDS effectively, and pH induced nutrient issues are also extremely common when your only option is to sit and watch dissolved solids accumulate unless you regularly flush the soil. If this practice of frequent fertilizing at low doses along with regularly flushing the soil did not/could not work, and wasn't extremely effective, hydroponics would be impossible. The fact is, it works much better and is far superior to simply sitting on our hands all winter and hoping nothing too bad happens to our plants as a result of elevated EC/TDS. This is simply another straw man tactic, of which there have been many, and has no basis in anything I ever said. Jodi asks "And why is it recommended? What are the factors involved? In what specific circumstances is this a valid recommendation?" The answer to those questions is 'to protect people that don't have a clue about how to manage EC/TDS from themselves'. When there is a valid discussion by people who have moved beyond the need to have their hands held when it comes to managing their growing, it's very disruptive to have someone enter the discussion and intentionally turn every one's words around. I think, Farkee, in all fairness to you, you're coming in on the tail end of a discussion that has been made to appear as something it isn't. I think you know me well enough and understand that I would not make the suggestions that have been implied. Jodi's questions were simply another attempt to reveal that the person responsible for yet another grousing match is following a pattern of intentionally instigating strife, or simply does not have enough understanding of the topic to be arguing with those that do. Unless she wants to openly discuss the logic or science, it cannot be any other way, but she won't/can't. Al

Do you have a picture of it.. That always helps.. BTW Welcome!!! I look forward to seeing you around. Kylie

Hey there: It is my understanding that crotan grows best in hot sunny environments and it goes wild in places like Florida. My sister has one in her yard in Raleigh that is doing well. I've never had one that wasn't in a pot.- Sandy

Regular light bulbs are hell on plants -- much more heat than light, and your average house is already bone dry during the heating season. You can buy a 4 foot fixture and high output fluorescent bulbs pretty cheap at your local box store, they'll work much better. The folded fluorescent bulbs these days go up to 200 watts, they require a different fixture, but may be the best cost/performance ratio available right now. HID lights are the most potent, but they're really for greenhouses, not people houses. There's a lot of info on the "Growing Under Lights" forum, as well as books on the subject. As others have said, most will go dormant or grow only slowly under lights, so they'll need less watering and no fertilizer. Hang in there, and they'll be all ready to go in spring! Jim