Dear Hilary,

You're spot on about the growing time of the Pachycormis, but I haven't any advice for you, I'm sorry to tell you - it seems as if you're doing it all as you should. Could it possible be underpotted?

As to your Operculicarya, I give mine no water until March/April, but that's probably not in their best interest. Maybe a very light watering is OK, but I tend to be cautious about this plant - I'm nuts about my two (as one should be about a member of the Cashew family, one supposes) so I don't water AT ALL until warmer temps. Mine are quite bare, too, but I suspect (and have anecdotal evidence) that if given warm temps year-around they don't go deciduous (though like many other Madagascan caudiciforms, I suspect their growth rate slows in winter).

I love my operculicarya also. I haven't had it that long - bought it on a trip to Tucson last May. I have it outside, in a very sheltered corner of my patio, where it's protected from the rain. It gets very little direct sun right now, but I think that's OK because it doesn't seem to be actively growing. It is still fully leafed out - kind of surprising, because it's been pretty cool the last few weeks - nighttime temps in the high 40s - low 50s. I'm watering it (sparingly) every 2-3 weeks, maybe that's why it's kept its leaves.

Dear Patrick,

That's interesting information. I wonder if I had kept watering my Opy if it would have remained in leaf? And certainly your temps are lower than mine, yet yours remained in leaf. I'd reckon these are less deciduous than I thought, further giving proof that I don't know nothin'.

Dear Hilary,

Well, there you have it. Promise me one thing - if you ever discover a new species of Pachycormus, promise me you'll name it Pachycormus datcolor.

For anyone who hasn't seen this beast -

Enjoy -

Here is a link that might be useful: bonsai?

Todd,

Thanks for the link - I had seen something like this long ago, but that plant is truly a caudiciformic monster in the very best way.

That is so very cool! Makes one wonder: I don't have a cliff facing the ocean, but what about training it flat against a south-facing wall? How great would that look instead of some espaliered shrub or trellised vine?

Dear Jeffrey and all:

Well, the Pachycormus has grown even testier, pun intended. Its leaves yellowed and dropped (although tiny new ones are appearing), which made me wonder if it is hating our mixed zone 7 weather. It is not pot-bound at all. I now wonder if the medium should have more organic material; it leans pretty heavily towards the perlite, and maybe that is just not nourishing enough for the plant. Also, it may need more nitrogen.

The opy, on the other hand, is putting out tiny, new leaves, and seems content.

Hilary

PS: If I discover a new species of Pachycormus, I'd be delighted to call it "datcolor."

Because of lousy results growing my Pachycormis during long days I managed to effect a conversion. Mine are kept bone dry in the summer. About the beginning of October a touch of green shows up on the terminal buds and the first watering happens. From now on they get real TLC, they are on a heating pad to keep their little rootsies warm. Watered when I think they need it they remain in leaf until about now. Leaves are commencing to yellow and fall.

Not a lot of growth occurs under these conditions but they aren't dying. They share that pad and conditions with my sole surviving boojum and a few fastidious favorites.

This is the 'discussion forum' so I'll forgo pics of the little retards.

Al

Wow. What about soil, Al? What mix do you use? Although sounds like they should start loosing leaves right about now.

H

Hilary, the mix is sort of standard for many of my C&S. Stones, gravel, Turface, pumice (I use Dry Stall) sharp sand and a bit of organics in the form of Miracle Gro commercial potting mix.

BTW I might have been a bit premature in my prediction of leaf fall. On careful examination the leaves have developed a bit of a violet/rose hue around the edges but are not yet dropping. My personal habit seems to be stingy with the water on most of my C&S. [Too much water = too much growth and the fear of a plant needing a larger pot = not enough room in the g/h :-( ]

Al

Just an update on the dropping leaves question... Here is my O. decaryi, taken about 1/2 hour ago. Leaves are a beautiful purple color, but hanging on!

{{gwi:470097}}

So, it sounds like the mix for the Pachycormus is right, that is, in minimizing organic material.

What a beauful Opy, Patrick!

Hilary

So how are all these Operculicarya doing after this growing season?

I just got one in March, haven't watered since late September and mine is starting to drop some leaves and color up a bit. It has gotten some near freezing nights with clear days, which might of helped it color up. But it seems to turn more red after a few days of cool (Oh and if you don't want yours to loose it leaves keep watering (they are drought-deciduous), but I believe it is a whole lot more cold hardy if kept dry during winter and I wonder if keeping it actively growing all year is good for it in the long term.

I really like this little tree, so was just wondering what is going on with all of yours?

I also have had my Oper. for many years. Mine is still in full leaf and I give it a little water all winter. It will shed many of it's leaves but will never be bare. I just love it. There is much debate about whether you should ever completely withhold water all winter on many caudiciforms. I give mine some water all winter but mine are never cold. If you are going to keep them on the cool side, don't water.

Thanks for the advice.

I think once it drops its leaves it will be ok to withhold water until it sprouts again (which I believe will happen after a thorough watering). That's what seems to happen in their natural environment, though in nature they have much deeper roots probably.

So I won't be watering at all because it is going to be on the cool side (to just above freezing somenights). I do that to keep other plants from becoming leggy since the sun gets blocked out by buildings for a few months starting soon. None of them seem to mind, and they just react better when it gets warmer and sunny again in spring.