Thanks joepyeweed and soccer dad, I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I didn't want to add too much information in the first post and overwhelm. Cultural Practices: Yes, I mow at the highest setting and water deeply and infrequently. I am still learning how to measure fertilizer in #/1000sqft instead of using Scott's rotary spreader and throwing it on the lawn, but I think the lawn has plenty of Nitrogen. Using the Scott's 4 step program in the past, I've started with step 1 in late April/early June when the ground temp is 50-55F and I see Forsythia bloom. Other Scott's steps have followed 6-8 weeks after the previous one. As I read more on this site I find steps 2 and 3 are not so good and my constant use of fungicide in the past has probably killed the good fungus too. After reading up on healthy soil I'm betting mine is lacking at this time. While I know it is great to mulch I have bagged since my fungal problems started and, very unfortunately, mulching simply spreads the lawn diseases. I may mulch my leaves this fall. I pull weeds by hand or use weed-B-gon to spot treat. pH: The pH has been a long issue and I'm not sure why. I've had several tests from the local Coop Ext as well as my own solution tester. The back yard has been between 5 and 5.6 for the last 5 years and the front has dropped from 6.8 to 6.2. I do test before I apply lime but I don't know why I can't keep the pH up. This is one reason that the organic method appeals to me - less pH testing and liming. Fungus: I agree with your assessment that N is too high. I should go test that with my solution tester. This is another reason to not follow Scott's program to the letter and go with organic or something hybrid for my lawn. In the past I was uneducated regarding NPK/ compost/ microbes/ bacteria/ good fungus/ and simply followed the steps not knowing if I was putting down a 30-2-4 or a 4-15-10 (just throwing out numbers). Grubs: In year 3 when I applied 24hr control I did have a problem and the grass came up like a carpet. Since then I have used the 3month control (July/Aug/Sep) every year. I don't want to go through that issue again. My area is notorious for grubs and moles and I'm reluctant to skip grub treatment for fear that they will return and I will be unaware until it is too late. Overseeding: Aside from re-seeding small and large(30'x40') patches I haven't overseeded the lawn. I've seeded over some thin areas with some luck by hand and am considering renting a slit-seeder this fall to try and fill out the thin areas. I may wait until next year for this if it takes some time to amend the soil before seeding. Organic: I've been reading lots of posts here about organics and the FAQ is great too. I am going to search my local big box stores and feed stores for corn gluten meal, soybean meal, corn meal and alfalfa meal. And maybe even Scott's organic lawn food (I have lots of gift cards to Lowe's). I understand corn meal is for disease and I'd like to apply it now. How will it affect my current year schedule: Late April: Scott's step 1 Mid June: Scott's step 2 I don't want to over N the lawn again. I don't know much about compost and will read more. 1td/1000sqft sounds like a lot. I have a bad back, is there any way to spread compost other than by hand? A drop spreader? I've read how great compost is but I haven't seen it in any annual schedule. Is that because composting is a one time shot to get microbes and bacteria back in to the soil? How often should one apply a layer of compost? I definitely realize this isn't a quick fix but I'm looking to take the lawn in the proper direction. As long as my practices are good, I'm confident the lawn will respond in time.

What an interesting idea! Years ago- maybe 30- I visited a cousin in Ohio who had an impressive medicinal herb garden that included, I think, the apothecary rose and a rugosa or two. I wish I knew more about cooking and medicinal roses but I don't have much to offer. What might help a little is that if you visit the Antique Rose Emporium's website, they tell you which of the roses they offer have hips and which of those may grow for you. You might be able to call or email someone there (or any other antique rose nursery, I suppose) and get more information and advice. You might also get some information from the HelpMeFind roses website. I don't know if there is a lot there on roses useful for cooking but they will be helpful in letting you know whether that rose fits your specific growing conditions. Please let us know what you finally decide and how well the roses you choose accomplish their purpose.

thanks - i will make sure i comply - i thought i was under the warm-humid line but i am not. Easy and cheap enough to cover the small area i am talking about.

I wish I could do a regular downdraft hood, but I can't. I think replacing the old downdraft requires that also I look at the venting and cabinent space carefully.and see if the original venting was adequate and how much space i'll lose in the center island cabinent.. I don't know if I should have an HVAC person look at what was done before. I can see the $ adding up fast! The disturbing part is that after all the $ and work, I'll end up with something that has marginal performance and probably won't be much better than what I have. However, when it fails, I may not be able us us the existing butcher block island because of the cutout and installation of the new induction cook-top. So the choice seems to be, spend a lot for something that won't be much better than what I have, but avoid facing a problem later.. Pick the poison!