Ryan,
Both methods worked for killing off pests, but the hot water method was simple, fast, effective and the bulbs are thriving. The chipping method was scary and slow, but will result in multiple bulbs that may bloom in 2-3 years. The hot water method is known to induce bulblet production, so you would have even more bulblets.

I would vote for HOT WATER.....it's all in the Read book. Holler if you need me to .pdf that chapter and send it to you, but I think I described it in detail as I was doing it.

Good luck!
K

In re-potting a few of my own bulbs, I noticed a couple of tiny creepy crawlers... I sprayed with a good 3 in 1 fungicide, insecticide, miticide once I had them re-potted. I doubt they were anything to worry about... just a little bug or two in the soil... but I didn't want to take any chances.

Actually, Ryan, if you're cleaning the bulbs good before re-potting, and you're using fresh soil and clean pots, you shouldn't have a problem. Just doing that much should eliminate any hitch hikers.

Many thanks ladies. I figured it isn't too bad as the bulb looks very healthy and is pushing roots-- but figured I should ask anyway.

I have a new potting medium I'll be using today for some of my refuse-to-stay-asleep bulbs that are pushing scapes. Its called aliflora or something to that effect. Its fired clay balls-- often used for bonsai (the few trees I have got this potting medium, too!). So we'll see how it goes. I think I'll stop by my garden center today, too, to check out what other ingredients that may have that will aid in healthy, non-buggy root growth.

Right now, in order, I believe I'll have Royal Velvet, Red Nymph, Elvas, White Peacock, Ragtime, and Zombie (hoepfully) bloom in order. Royal Velvet is growing like a weed.

Ryan

Tiny insects that prefer plants won't really care what medium you use... they'll go for your plants regardless. The key is to keep watch for pests, and be ready to eradicate them before they multiply into a problem.

In winter, spider mites are a huge problem because they prefer dry air and dry conditions. Keeping the humidity at a decent level helps, as does making sure you keep leaves clean, by wiping them every once in a while with a damp paper towel or rag. This also helps the leaves to gather sunlight and aspirate naturally. Mealy bugs and scale can also be a problem. It's handy to keep a spray insecticide near by, just in case, and give a few spritzes if you happen to see any pests crawling around.

I keep a bottle of Schultz's 3 in 1 spray, and also a bottle of Ortho houseplant bug spray handy, just in case.

I'm glad you're trying out the clay pellets as a medium, though. You will have to water and feed more often, but the roots of your bulbs will thank you!

Another medium you could look into is a bonsai mix... normally, these contain larger particles of pine bark, turface or granite chips, and I'm not certain what else, but the medium doesn't decompose very quickly at all, and allows for very fast drainage and aeration for the root system. This is what I use as the base for my own medium.

I either use straight "Al's Mix", which is very close to a commercial bonsai medium... or, I use a bonsai mix, and I add perlite, crushed charcoal pieces, a pinch of vermiculite, and a dash of high quality peat or potting soil. The mix turns out to have larger particles than normal potting soil, does not decompose fast, and keeps tiny spaces between the pieces, which helps the roots breathe.

When using a medium like this, a good fertilizing schedule must be maintained as there's not much nutrition in it. I use a dilute mix of liquid MiracleGro and micro-nutrients every other watering. So far, so good!

I used to just plant my bulbs in whatever potting soil I had laying around, or in the medium that came with the bulb kits, but I learned the hard way that many Hippeastrum and other tender bulbs are prone to rotting and fungal issues. Mediums that decompose quickly, or hold onto moisture for any length of time, are not healthy for root systems or for the bulbs, themselves.

Once I understood the concept of perched water tables, drainage, and how roots and different mediums react in a container environment, I knew that the way to healthy plants was through the root systems, and to grow healthy roots, I needed to change my medium of choice.