Milehigh, This topic is very interesting to me, as I am making my first attempt at benchgrafts this spring. First, it seems that the term "benchgraft" is often used incorrectly here. Friends, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't a benchgraft a graft that is made onto a rootstock that is not in the ground--literally on a bench? As Scott points out, nurseries are still producting trees this way. Here is a care guide for benchgrafts put out by Cameron: http://www.cameronnursery.com/education.htm I bought 20 rootstocks from Cummins this spring: 10 M7 and 10 G30. My goal is to save some heirloom varieties. I planted seven of the G30 in the garden immediately, with plans to bud them in August, as Cummings advised that G30 is not easy to benchgraft owing to it's brittle nature. The other 13 rootstocks I benchgrafted with whip and tongue or cleft. The dormant benchgrafts were then heeled into damp sawdust and kept cool and dark. I peeked at some of the trees after three weeks in the sawdust, and some of the buds are starting to push. Cummins strongly advised me to hold off on planting them until the threat of frost is past. I'm crossing my fingers for luck, but if any fail, I will have another chance with bud grafting in August. I am still debating about planting them into the garden or their ultimate location. It seems they will be needing plenty of care and moisture during the next months, but the downside of the garden step requires a transplant. Scott, your method of spring budding is very interesting. This is the first I have read of it. Are you budding onto the new growth or the old growth? I could use this method for my rootstocks already in my garden, couldn't I. Then try again in August if it fails? Marc "We should so live and labor in our times that what came to us as seed may go to the next generation as blossom, and what came to us as blossom may go to them as fruit." Henry Ward Beecher

You would probably get more answers if you posted this separately, but I'll try to help if I can. First, you need to figure out why the leaves are turning yellow and brown. Peace lilies don't like constant wet soil, or dry soil, you have th find a happy medium since this plant like evenly semi moist soil at all times. A couple things to keep in mind. The pot should only be an inch larger than the root-ball, they like to be snug in their pot like many indoor plant do. Need for a good draining soil is essential. I like to add "Perlite" to the soil which helps with drainage. It can be found at any of the box stores like Lowe's. The leaves can burn in direct sun, keep it where it gets bright light, but no direct hot sun. When the top inch of the soil starts to feel close to dry, water the soil thoroughly spilling out any excess water out of the saucer. As far as fertilizing, use only half strength or less, too much can cause the roots to burn. Billy Rae

Alexa, At 10:45 this morning, I used my Meterman LM631 Light Meter to measure light levels. I live in Maryland, close enough to you for comparison. I measured 7000 fc outdoors with moderate sunshine (some clouds) and the same light indoors at a SSE window on the second floor of my house was measured at 3400 fc. These measurements are a good reason to proceed carefully. I think that an earlier recommendation to "start out in the 'tons of light' situation and work down from there" is a dangerous path. It is far safer to start at a moderate light level and gradually move your way up. Window sill light levels can be quite high at this time of year. The earlier reference to 1500-2000 fc for Maxillaria tenuifolia from OrchidWiz originated with Charles Baker. Baker also wrote that the light should be filtered or diffused. Baker provided a reasonable reference point. Good Luck with your plant!! Alexa, I was just up in Pennsylvania to see the Show at Longwood Gardens. Did you see it? It was worth the two hour drive each way! --Stitz--

nick, i already looked thru the phal experiment thread. i think it's very interesting what the outcome will be. i have some questions and thoughts - i'll go post there. lauraeli, what you said is along the lines of questions that i was asking. so, may be there is smth in 1:1 idea... notice that nick said NOT to water to sopping wet, but just barely enough. of course it'll depend on how many roots you have in the pot and how actively the plant is growing and also growing conditions: temps/humidity, evaporation levels, etc. i think that tighly packed SM will prevent water from running thru provided it's not dried up. but if it's not tightly packed, the water will just pour out. how much to pack though? that is my question. knowing some sort of 'volume measure' ahead of time can help to get more consistent. the way i usually plant - i don't mix sphag with bark or other stuff ahead of time. i layer it in as i fill the pot by bits and pieces. it's easy enough to do by hand. you need to distribute it among the roots carefully anyway (that is i am assuming you have some roots ;)). so there is no oil/water problem. somewhat compressed SM will hold the other ingredients in place without shifting. whether it's bark or cork or scoria. i have some 'deep thoughts' on scoria.. ;).which is like my total favorite!...i'll go sleep on it ;).