Hi Liz, Since I have been growing for over 25 years I have found that the 4' fixture is best for my plants and also the most economical. When I was working and could afford them I used Varilux bulbs which I found gave the plants a great growth rate, however, they are expensive and cost retail over 12 dollars each. Since retiring I switched to 40 watt cool whites which I purchase by the box at Home Depot or Lowes. They work well and give me no problems. I have on occassion in the past used Gro-Lux and Gro-Lux WS. Both bulbs give good growth to the plants and make the plants look really beautiful and healthy under the light. But when you remove the plant from the light into natural light there is great disappointment. They loose their color and look rather ordinary. The Gro-Lux WS bulbs were always cheaper than the Gro-Lux. Many people prefer to use one cool whit and one warm white to grow. Since I cannot find warm whites I now use cool whites exclusively. Hope this helps. Fred in NJ

Hello again and thanks for the responses and latest info. Yes, I would like to add plants rather than do a complete new start up, but had read so much I had got swamped by all the info available and was thinking I needed to go down the line of needing to change or add at least to the gravel substrate...ie sand, finer gravel, Laterite, special plant food, CO2, etc.etc. Well, the Java Moss duly arrived several days ago, not that thrilled with it though, large amount, but very bitty and lots of brown. Have it in a large wide bowl in window at present trying to sort out whats what. Lots of 'detritus' in there too, bit wary about plopping that lot into my tank. Have managed to separate some bits that are really green, have them in shallow plastic food takeaway trays on top of condensation cover of tank, under the hood, getting extra warmth and light in hope it will grow a bit more before planting on rocks or whatever. Have not managed to get to the fish shop yet, will check out the Anubias you suggested, and maybe some better Java Moss too! Have also 'altered down' the light timer slightly. I have a large heavily planted outdoor pond (goldfish, koi, golden and blue orfe) could I utilise a floater such as Duckweed, (of which I have an excess at the moment, no idea where it came from, it just appeared overnight!)or could stem plants like Elodea be of any use? (filled 2 wheelbarrows last spring with excess so I could spare a BIT for the tank I guess) Realise I will have to ensure they are squeaky clean before using them, if suitable....any remedies or are they not to be used?? Thanks again. Gill.

Thanks Gonzer. I'll show you more, but you will have to work for it! Please help me with some more names. I want to get all my Tills now nicely sorted out with proper names. A more general view of the garden around the pool: And then where I display my Tillandsia's on a dead bottlebrush branch: and the others on the group of railway sleepers: And then the plants in question. 1. I have got no idea: 2. Till caulescense? 3. Till butzii? 4.Till baileyi? 5. Till vernicosa? 6. Till argentea? I got another one and mounted it next to my old one and it turned out to be an ionantha. Argentea was upright but it moved like that all by itself. Should I put it upright or is it fine like that? I have it quite a couple of years and it never flowered or produced pups Sorry, I forgot to rotate butzii and baleyi and cannot get them to move now. Japie And then another view of the guys on the sleepers.

My Wal-mart's Nepenthes, looks similar to N. gracilis, is near south-facing window, lots of light if weather is good. Few weeks ago I placed it on the table at the window base, together with sarracenia seedlings, and gave them artificial light support when there are no direct sunlight - monings, evenings and whole cloudy days. This is working table, and I just turned on arm desk lamp with 23W compact (spiral) fluorescent lamp, ~4100K (cool white), ~1600 lm, CND$3.50 ea if buy in sets of 4. CFL is fairly close to plants - approximately at palm width distance. Today I notices that new pitchers are twice large than previous, size of small finger (pinkie?). The other factors may be involved: other plant has fungus gnats and Sarr seedlings and Nep feed themselves on them (not that I recommend that risk for the roots), plants are in sphagnum, temperature varies from 17C at night to 32C at sun, usually 21C; humidity 24-44%, misting when I am around, humidity saucer with water, no fertilizing. From common knowledge that I picked here on forums: - daylight fluorescent bulbs are preferred, if you can find them, this is 6500K; other are matter of personal preference - cool or soft white, or both. - Higher lumens are better, but require bigger distance from the plant. Last month is our area even HD started carry 42W CFL, ~2600lm, CND$13 ea. Hydroponic and pet shop suppliers can carry full spectrum CFLs at 7x price of cool white (CN$27 26W). - CFL may be T5 or even T4 technology, as opposed to T8 (1 in. tubes, most popular, T5 are even better) or common T12 tubes (12/8 in., least efficient lumen production per watts used). CFLs from common stores are less expensive than T5 tubes(very efficient, 5/8", thin tube, doesn't require replacement every 6 months); - in low light situation two side lights (from different sides) may be beneficial, as jungle plants receive light mostly from the sides; - heating of the terratium: incadencent bulbs produce much more heat than fluorescent. Just for heating many people are using set of four 60W inc. bulbs ( details can be found through search of forums, may be Growing under Artificial Lights, may be Terrariums), or ceramic heat emitters that fit usual desk lamp with porcelain socket, heat cables or mats. On the other hand, being inside enclosed environment three 18W T8 fluorescent tube kitchen under cabinet lights (CN$10 ea) produce around 30C or slightly less (I have other FLs tubes on shelf below them) - from my limited experience.