Here is what I learned this year from my spv in the hanging basket. Around August, I got tired watering it. Most of the plants in the hanging basket died. The only thing that is still alive is the Cordyline. I should overwinter that as well. Last week, we had good rain and today, I saw new sprouts from bottom and old stem. It was beautiful before since it was already hanging outside the basket. I'm not familiar what a Saran is so I looked it up in google images. It returned me different pictures of girls. LOL. Hahaha!

I'm not sure how much help I can be, but I'll give it a shot... First of all, there is no one-size-fits-all watering schedule a grower can keep when it comes to containerized plants. Each plant will use water, and water will evaporate, at a different rates... based upon plant type, size, pot size, location, medium used, weather, humidity, etc... So, any potted plant should only be watered when it needs to be watered. I use a combination of my finger/sense of touch, and the wooden skewer method, to determine the moisture content within each pot. Even when soil feels dry to the touch near the surface, there could be plenty of moisture deeper within the pot, hence insertion of a wooden skewer to test for moisture, and a rather dry feeling medium may even contain moisture molecules at a small percentage that we can't feel with our own sense of touch. The Tulips, Lilies, Allium, and Hyacinthoides can be kept potted, and the pots buried up the rim in a garden, then mulched for the winter... as long as they're buried at their recommended depth, those types of bulbs are hardy to northern climes. However, squirrels and other rodents love to feast on them, so once the pots are buried, you may want to lay some screen over them before mulching... then remember to remove it early enough so the new shoots can get through. Some of the other plant types you mention are not hardy to your zone 5, and will require being kept in relative warmth. I don't think covering anything that sits up on a pedestal will do much good, as windchills can be quite devastating to plant roots that don't have the protection of being at ground level or buried, and protected with mulch of some kind. Hopefully, someone with more knowledge of your various plant types will be along to help... I'm in zone 5b, and bring all my tender potted plants indoors for winter, and try to place them where they will get the most light, treating them more as houseplants that are just resting for winter. Anything hardy to my zone either gets planted and mulched, or goes into an unheated, and otherwise unused, garage building once dormant. I group my potted perennials and shrubs together in plastic baby pools inside the garage, and I close up the building until early spring. I will check occasionally to see if the soil is dry, and if so, I will spread a few shovels full of snow over them to simulate nature and its winter moisture source. When dormancy breaks in spring, I begin opening the east facing garage doors to let in light, and as soon as I feel the weather is stable enough, I bring everything back outside for another growing season. I don't know how much I've helped you, but I wish you luck. :-)

the non stop tubers are small and are tough to overwinter. The plants are so cheap it's not worth the trouble. The new Solenia series tuberous begonias outperform the Non Stops by a mile... Boca Joe

I have a bad habit of buying potted dahlias on clearance late in the season. I have again this year, although they were huge 5 gallon size pots & tubers may be nice. Previously, though, they often aren't & don't overwinter in my usual haphazard storage method. Can these be grown as potted house plants? I got a small bright red one that I think would be lovely if it were blooming at Christmas.