Mine is already about 3' high and flowering now, but with only one cane, which is the thickest cane I've ever seen on a begonia, about two of my thumbs thick at the base, smaller the higher it goes. I started this from a leaf taken off a shrub 6-8' high. I don't know when it will send up another cane, it's just one at the moment. I started some leaves for the tampa swap if anyone's interested. Lori

My favorite is Eola Sapphire. I don't have a photo and the one at Hosta Library that shows what it really looks like when grown in the shade is the top one. In the sun it loses it's deep blue/green color and it's glossy substance. But grown in the shade, it's a real beauty and it gets huge. Last year either Ken or Phil posted a gorgeous photo of his. Fellas, got Eola? I also love Mississippi Delta with it's big flat disk shaped leaves. Mine is young and only has three leaves, but mature ones are to die for. Lainey Here is a link that might be useful: Eola Sapphire top photo

That would be 'Oshio-beni' and it is a small shrub-like tree with a rounded canopy and a very low branching habit. Removing the lower branches to create a more "tree-like" appearance would NOT enhance the appearance of this particular maple cultivar, IMO. Exposure to the late freeze a large part of this country experienced around Easter could have had a pretty detrimental affect on this tree.......I'm not surprised the nursery was offering it at a bargain price. That plus its age and very mature size makes it a risky candidate for a 100% successful transplanting. I hope you got some sort of guarantee, as $1000 is a lot of cash to layout for what may best be a 50-50 proposition. If the so-called 'dead' twigs or stems are a pale or silvery gray, then they are indeed most likely dead. This can be confirmed by bending the twigs - if they snap cleanly and with a dry, tannish interior, they are dead wood. Also, viable twigs and stems will have distinct buds on them. Rubbing off a couple of buds will expose the interior, which should be succulent rather than dry and brown. All dead wood can/should be removed and there is really no restriction as to when this can be done. Other pruning (which I don't recommend for this cultivar) should wait until December or January when the tree is fully dormant but before the sap starts moving. My final suggestion is if you have never pruned a tree before, a Japanese maple of this age, size and potential value is not a place to start :-) Hire a professional or take some classes, preferrably those that emphasize Japanese maples, and from a very well-qualified instructor. As a 20 year nurseryperson and landscape professional, I've seen more trees and shrubs mangled - often beyond redemption - by well-intentioned but uninformed homeowners who do not understand how, when and why to prune. Know what you are doing before you start or leave it to the professionals.

It has been a great first year for me in this forum. I learned a lot, saw way too many beautiful hostas to keep the addiction at bay...but the best thing was this alphabet...it helped me over the long waiting period. Thanks to all of you great enablers! I wish you a wonderful year in your gardens! I used the sunny day yesterday and prepared the pots for the new kindergarten:-) Dave from Wales gave me the idea to use the trefoil pots that are normally used for kitchen herbs...they can be put one over another and I will try it with my minis...