Linda - I was expecting a lecture on it is not DIRT - it is soil - soil becomes dirt when it gets under your nails. Cork - I agree with you 100%. Before they sold small black polyethylen square pots- but they are gone..they were sturdy - you just needed to make a label for each one instead of writing with a marker on a solo cup. What I do - when I am working with solo cups and cuttings - I put wet felt on the bottom of the black tray - get a dome - and keep stacking them tightly until the tray is filled - ad only then move it to the shelf - less tipping of the pots. If I use the solos for the semis and minis - I move them to the shelves one by one, not on a tray. I.

Here's a sketch of what you could do. There are other options to arrange the master part but just to get started. Note it is not to scale. Just a sketch, but I kept some of the measurements in mind as well as wall thicknesses to see that it would fit. I used 4.5" for interior walls. Also couldn't see where all the windows were so this may not work with the windows. Now this assumes you have full standing height in all spaces shown. I'm not sure you do though, but it isn't marked where that starts and stops on the drawing.

But let me ask you this--which way would the cut size face? Or do we "buff" it to look like it wasn't cut? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Would the corners be mitered? Being that the field tile will be cut into the design, and the rhomboids would be full tiles, I'd think you want to keep the cut edge out toward the field. I know about the bullnose pieces for the sides, but do people use those along the top, where the backsplash hits the cabinet? Does it look more finished? You SHOULD just about have full tile under your cabinets. There should be just about 18" between countertop and bottom of the upper cabinets. In fact, I'd measure and lay some tiles out dry jut to make sure you wouldn't end up with a gap at the top. Either way, though, Just use field tile at the top. Where it goes up by the hood, you ca just continue the field. If you have other places where it'll be open on top, you can simply add a piece of bullnose to the top of the field tile, so that the bullnose extends up past the bottom of the upper cabinets, as shown in the following picture:

hollysprings - Thanks for the heads up. You seem to assume that PRO's aren't involved. As far as the structure goes - all steel, lvl's, ridge beams, joists, rafters, etc.,etc., etc., have been engineered. So there is no doubt that it will not fall down around my ears. What I need is folks opinion on layout, not on structural elements.....do you have any suggestions that way?