I am in the middle piedmont of SC so probably similar growing conditions as you. 4th of July weekend is when I usually start fall cole plants, collards, cabbage, brocoli, brussel sprouts they can be direct seeded in the ground evenly scatter the seed in a straight line and lightly cover with 1/4in of soil keep watered and soil moist when the plants are about 4weeks old soak ground good then pull out or dig them up shake off loose dirt them replant spacing 18-24inches apart in prepared beds.Cole crops like lots of nitrogen so this is a crop that will benifit from adding manure to the soil and heavy straw or hay mulch to conserve moisture and keep down weeds.They will be ready for harvest after the first frost in Oct and will stay until hard freezes in Jan. The fall frost sweeten the greens and are of better quality than spring planted cole crops in the south. Major pest problems in fall are flea beetles on turnip and mustard greens which are planted in late Aug and cabbage worms, leaf hoppers on cole crops but using row covers will eliminate any pest problems then remove covers after first frostwhich will kill any pest. I grow transplants commercially and start all my fall plants first to middle of July to have ready for retail in late Aug early sept. I sure wish we would get some good consistant rainfall here in Little Mountain SC, I am struggling to keep things watered and water is a key to succesfull cole crops they do not like to dry out if kept moist will produce large healthy plants with good flavor if they become dry it stunts the plants and will cause a strong bitter flavor and they are also more susceptable to pest when stressed by drought so keep them well mulched and watered. Rodger

In Augusta ( Richmond County) I can set Broccoli and Cauliflower as October 15. I start plants outside in July. Shady spot with only dimpled morning sun. Not even a turnip will germinate here in the open until late August. For best results I like to get Broccoli cabbage and cauliflower set just past Labor Day. The October transplant of broccoli and cauliflower usually do Ok, but often don't head until January. I like them around Thanksgiving, which is also when I plant English peas. I start and set collards on the same schedule as broccoli and cauliflower, shooting maximum harvest for New Years. Every one has to have Collards for New years. Turnips, mustard, kale, rutabagas, I direct sow the last week of August and then at about three week intervals until October 15. I am growing Pak Choi this year on the same scheduled as the other transplanted brassicas. I don't recommend direct seeding of Cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli or any of the large brassicas which require spacing of more than 15 inches.

You've gotten a whole lot of good information and suggestions here. Some of it sounds conflicting, but mostly it's not. Read all you can on these forums and in gardening books, especially those written for your region. You will quickly get the whole picture. I like your plan of action! I garden in raised beds too. I agree with seysonn that you should combine some of those small beds into one long bed. You'll get a lot more planting space that way, and will save work and money on edging them out. If I were you, I would divide your six foot wide corn/bean beds into two three foot wide beds side by side, but with a 3' path between. When you get raised bed soil in great shape you will sink to your ankles in it if you walk in the beds. You can still get pollination in your corn if you plant the two beds side by side. And, you'll have much easier access to beans in a 3' wide bed. I also agree that four feet wide will be too wide for raised beds. Three feet to three and a half feet will be far better. By reducing your beds to three foot widths, you can pick up another foot in your 2' paths. I have three foot wide paths between my beds and that is perfect. I have no trouble getting my wheelbarrow in for any job I want to do. Four foot wide paths is a waste of planting space, in my opinion. I also agree with the comment on pine straw. It is truly wonderful mulch. Since you have lots of leaves, use those as soil amendments and save the straw for mulch on your paths. ALSO, use it as mulch inside your beds. When you set your transplants in the beds in the spring, like tomatoes, peppers, etc., immediately put a thick layer of pine straw mulch over the entire surface of the bed and around your plants. This one thing alone will reduce your weed problems dramatically. When you plant vining crops, mulch the entire bed except the hill where you plant the seeds. Then as the vines spread, they will grow over the mulch. Your fruit will be clean and your bed will be weed free. See? The only time I ever plant a bed without mulch is when I am sowing the entire bed as a block like carrots or crowder peas, with no rows or paths in it. When I do this, I am always reminded why mulch is so great. I have to pull a lot of weeds until the crop plants get large enough to shade them out. I think your plan looks really great. With a little tweaking, it will be a garden to be proud of. Best of luck to you!

Hi and welcome, we're getting lots of new folks this week which is nice. I've attached an overview from the Extension Service. It's pretty simple, but will give you an idea. You can search the site for other info. There are many tomato varieties developed just for Texas spring or fall planting. The smaller and faster maturing the better for this type of gardening. My cherry tomato plant from the spring is still green and growing but not producing right now so they can survive the heat. If you have a specific question in the future, it's easier for us to answer questions if we know what part of the state you are in. There are so many things you can plant now. The beets and dill I planted from seed a few weeks ago are already up and going well even in this heat. I will plant lettuce seeds in September to grow all winter. Lettuce survives even the coldest days in my garden. Basil is very happy in this heat too. Watering is the key to keeping the garden going in the heat. Here is a link that might be useful: Fall Garden in Texas