Hi Jodi, Yeah, Ledebouria, but none of the common ones....some have amazing leaves, others just odd, rare ledebouria!! I also get in Brunsvigia (mostly these are winter growers, but not all), Gethyllis (winter growers), Cyphostemma, Crinum (recently I got foetidum, acaule, delagoense, lugardiae and minimum), Massonia, Daubenya, Strumaria, etc. Most of these are from Charles Craib at Penroc Specialty Plants and they are for the most part only specimen size bulbs.....no small plants from this seller for the most part. Since there is a group of us that have spent well on the far side of a reasonable amount in the past year or so we get all the lists now and wholesale prices, but they are still big, expensive bulbs so a really limited group of people are interested in such things I realize. You are more than welcome if anything catches your fancy :o) Dan

I have discovered that the very best mode to replant is, to store the bulb during winter reposal in its pot. Afterwards, the one and only occasion where the peripheral roots will "see" some daylight is when I cut the old container up in order to release the root ball with the minimallest degree of traumatization, then and not before let the root ball stand in water for some hours and afterwards replant the whole thing into a container which is two or three numbers bigger. Freshly purchased bare bulbs should be, if necessary at all, stored at a lower temperature (48-55°F), not ambient temperature and preferably in the dark with higher air humidity (60-80%). Arif, I am concerned that you deliberately exposed roots of a plant to the sunlight, obviously expecting any benefit from this "protocol". I cannot believe that and I do not understand what is behind it. *Giggling* Sounds as if it be some sort of unconventional "advice" released by a famous Sir whose name I, honestly lying, have just forgotten. Tell me the worst!!! *ROFL* Well, I am just looking at my one and only specimen of H.cybister "Reggae" which I had purchased on a cold winter day in 2007/8 and the half dead plant, guess that, was placed outdoors... I performed a good husbandry on the plant and I replanted in coco fiber substrate with a thick Seramis drainage layer after re-wetting the roots as described above. Now, the two intensely pigmented scapes have, believe-or-not, reached the incredible length of 31 inches (79 cm) and, still better, a third scape is emerging from the 26 cm-bulb (circumference; = 10 inches). A special detail and I think that will interest you - how do I keep them Seramis' granules from escaping out of the bottom holes of the pot? - : I use synthetic fly-screen. Together with watering from the bottom, it is simply the cleanliest way to care for plants indoors. Referring to your discussiontitle I state: This DOES work! ;-)

Thanks guys! Yes Xuan..I still do drop by in here once in a while. I am getting old and getting tired of posting. I think I have posted enough in here for the past 4 or 5 years? Can't remember...Let the younger ones "hold the torch". And yes Xuan that is a clivia. I am so much into it now as this plant thrives so well here in my growing conditions WITHOUT me needing to spray any poisons. Yes, my garden now is chemical free! This I think is my biggest trophy as a gardener. Chaz...You gotta grow em clivias. You are now in clivia paradise! More pics to share... Grandbaby, Summer with Lola's flowers

RobNelms, I think you need to take a long view on thisâ¦..you should still have these plants in a decade and then the decade after thatâ¦.or longer!! What you desperately need to do now is not kill itâ¦..while I'm sure you can get away with glazed or plastic pots in the future (I have one of mine in a glazed pot and all my 2-4 year old seedlings in plastic pots) what you want right now is PERFECT drainage to get the roots established. When you have a pot full of roots they can take more watering and less drainage (plastic and glazed pots by default have less drainage because their is less loss of water via the clay pot), but now you need to not lose your beautiful plant. I've posted a lot of times, I use pure volcanic cinder or pure pumice for my plantsâ¦.I'm sure in more ideal conditions you can get away with some potting mix or whatever, but I know my conditions are no where near perfect! For now I think you want lots of warmth so I would keep them inside. My plants are very well established so mine go outside starting in April and come back in late Oct. I leave mine out as long as it is not going in to the 30s at nightâ¦.this is what they see in their native habitatâ¦..but yours are not nearly well enough established so keep them warm in your houseâ¦maybe even give them bottom heat for now. I'm sure you can succeed with this plant, but please keep it in perfect drainage for nowâ¦â¦experiment when you have more to experiment with!! I just harvested my latest seed pod to mature so I hope in a few weeks I have another 50 or so seedlings nicely growing. Rick, if I get flowers on my Scilla next fall and they set seed you are welcome to someâ¦.I just never make an attempt to set seed since I have no room for more anyway. By the way, one of my Scadoxus nutans offsets is growing a leaf despite hanging next to the pot of soil in the air so I will cut it off and get it in a separate potâ¦.if it grows roots it is yours in the spring. It has lots of root buds so maybe it will quickly root. Good growing all :o) Dan