Curvy or straight? The main point is to give beds depth. Rule of thumb for a border or foundation would be a minimum depth of 6 ft, but most look better if deeper than that. Narrow beds and borders, I think, are one of the things that leads some people to plant in the dreaded soldier rows. Also, although I sometimes think some people get a little anal about the "rule", it's kind of a common mantra in gardening books and on garden forums to hear that plant material should be planted in odd numbers. Three is the favorite number. For smaller plants, or for greater impact, try 5 or 7. If a plant has presence enough to be a specimen or accent on its own, then plant just one. Consider that most dwarf shrubs are about 2 ft at maturity. You need to keep an access space along the house, so you don't plant them write up against it. And, you just read this rule of 3 thing, so you have 3 little shrubs that you won't plant in a row. How much depth will your irregular planting of a trio of the same shrub or perennial need? Then you figure that ... hmmm ... a 2 ft shrub doesn't have a lot of presence by itself. What if it were to have a grouping of evergreens here ... and, say, here ... Oh, and the evergreens are something slow growing that will eventually reach 4 to 5 ft. Pretty soon you realize the border depth needs to be 8 ft to accommodate the shrub groupings. And, because I think it's how many of us think, I'm starting from smaller plants and working from there. Of course, the other common scenario is trying to plant something that matures at 6 to 10 ft with a similar spread into a bed that isn't deep enough. So, my recommendation would be that you get a working idea of the shape and especially the depth of the beds. Incorporate the raised bed idea if you like ... But for now, just play with the ideas on paper, keeping foremost in your mind the way these beds will enhance your home. Once you've got a paper plan that you like, you don't necessarily have to pull the whole thing off all at once. You have a plan. Execute it slowly. Given that you are trying to learn design and learn plants and "do" the garden all at once, give yourself permission to work at a reasonable pace. Maybe the shadier side first, and focus next year on the sunnier side. Give strong consideration to checking out if a local nursery provides design services. Often you can pay a reasonable fee (about $300) for a reasonable plan. If they seem to be going in a too cookie cutter direction, call them on it and indicate the preferences you are already developing. Mainly what you want is something to guide your process. And, there are designers out there who work specifically with clients who intend to put the plan in place themselves. Anyway, whether you sketch it out entirely yourself or get professional input, once you've got a plan, implement it in stages. Don't do what I've done ... rush out to look at all the pretty plants and come home with babies that need to go into the ground ... now! Give your future plantlings the courtesy of beautifully prepared beds with wonderfully prepped soil. You won't regret it. Focus on getting a particular section of the project done well. Maybe it won't look finished, but you have a plan and you know what you will be doing next to fulfill it. Hope that makes sense ... It's just often the case that we get an idea, and think we can execute it and then it turns out to be way more work than we realized when we were just playing with it on paper. Get the big picture on paper ... But, if you are doing the work, stage the execution in manageable phases.

I've always admired that plant. Are you interested in Brugmansias (I have a full size brug tree), Iochromas, Nepenthes (carnivorous), orchids, or Colocasias? If you are, drop me an email. I also have some great perenials that I haven't yet listed like Cimicifuga negligee (my favorite plant) I do have a 12'+ Deodor Cedar that I might part with but I'd need some help digging it up, it's not small. :)

Scenter, I don't know if the dwarf variegated gardenias are hardy to your area, but if you have to set indoors, a south window is fine..Also, a humidifying tray, or better yet, a humidifer will help w/humidity..I also mist daily..*(I just got the same plant at almostedenplants.com) But as far as my standard tree gardenias, they're over-wintered in a south window..water less on cloudy days. Soil should be medium dry before watering..Don't allow plant to sit in water, otherwise plant will develop insects. In summer, 'denias should be placed outside, first in shady area, gradually brining out to semi-sunny..Keep out till mid-aumumn..I leave mine out till days/nights are in the 40's. I feed w/azlalea food during growing season. (follow container directions of dosage and times) That's about it..Toni

If it has roots and you didn't chop off some thick roots, you can pot it and start watering immediately. They will tolerate a good bit of water in an aggregate medium. I have to disagree with Josh about their drought tolerance though. I have 8 foot tall ones in the ground and I have 4 foot tall jades in the ground on a southwest facing hillside and the C.ovata definitely show signs of drought first. They both have the same exposure and they are both well established as in decades established. edit: I noticed Josh mentioned defoliation. Yes P.afra will defoliate before C.ovata in response to drought, but that just makes the plant more drought tolerant.