Stubborn! Nice project you're embarking on. Hawthorns and fl. crabs are both good ornamental trees for this region. All the usual advice applies regarding crab selection. That is, select a variety with good to excellent disease resistance, especially for apple scab and fireblight, the two diseases most prevalent here. I think it very worthwhile to select a variety with nice, persistent fruit also. This extends the season of interest greatly. I'm not a fan of large-thorned varieties of hawthorn, having been impaled on these more than once. As to the shade tree, my feeling is that in forested areas like where your cabin is, native species are to be preferred. This would indicate such things as sugar maple, red maple (The true red maple-a native tree with GREEN leaves in summer), white, swamp white, or N. red oaks, possibly yellow birch, American beech, basswood, and so on. I'd be very much against planting something like Norway maple in this environ, as it would be very likely to send its progeny into the woods over time. Can't recommend ash although white ash is one of my favorite hardwoods. Emerald ash borer has now been confirmed present in Wisconsin, and is a very destructive pest of ash trees. Best of luck with your new place........+oM

Drive around the older neighborhoods and look at the trees. Measure your yard so you have an idea of how much room the tree(s) can cover. Take photos, and, if you ask, you can probably take width measurements, of the trees you like the looks of. Either use the library or buy a tree ID book, or post the photos here and ask (include a close up of leaves, fruit or flower and maybe the bark, to get a good answer). Look at trees in parks, on college or school campuses, go to arboretums - the grounds keepers may well know what the trees are, or, again, ask here or look in books. If there are REALLY good nurseries around, with really knowledgable staff, and with display gardens, go and look and ask questions there. Do double-check the info, however, as sometimes nursery staff know less than they think they do. You want to be looking at trees that are older than 20 years, preferably 30 years, so you can have some ideas as to how they grow and what they look like. There are new cultivars of some of the larger tried-and-true trees, maples, etc., as well as newer introductions of species, that are smaller than the 60-100' trees of the past, so look into them. Go on-line and find a few tree nurseries - go through the catalogues and look. Use Google Image to see photos - many of these will be smaller, younger trees, but will give you a chance to see how a given tree grows. Be aware that some of the heights mentioned on the hang-tags of trees for sale may be the expected height in 10 years, not the eventual, mature height. ALWAYS double-check your facts! Lecture now being over - I would agree with any of the above for small trees. Other possibilities include riverbirch (Heritage or Duraheat selections, will grow to 35-40'), dogwoods, crape myrtles (selected for size), magnolias, either deciduous ones (selected for size, shape and flower color) or M. viginiana, stewartias, hornbeam and, not to exhaust the possibilities, but to come to a stop, crabapples (selected for disease resistance, flower color and height). If you want large trees, there are any number that will grow over 40', and many over 60', with time. Maples, oaks, sweetgums (selected males, to avoid the 'gumballs'), black gum, hackberry, sycamore, pecan, etc., etc. As well, there are any number of evergreen trees that can be used, ranging from magnolias to pines to spruce, cedar, etc. Most of these may make things a little TOO shady. If you don't already have one, get a copy of the Southern Living Garden Book - it has a series of listings in the front for plants selection, including trees. You can get ideas, and see if they will grow in your area, although it may not include the latest introductions. You do have time, since, as Esh Ga mentioned, the fall is the best time to plant. Decide what you want - eventual size in height and width, spring or summer flowers, berries, deep shade, dappled shade, deciduous, evergreen, fall color, winter interest - and then look for trees with whatever of these attributes you want. You can't have them all, but you can get several together. If you come back with a list of what you are looking for, the members here can help.

What about a Catalpa? They often grown on sloped riverbanks and bloom with very pretty white little trumpet flowers.. ------------------------------------- Have you seen the catalpa trees blooming? Most northern catalpas grow to heights of 60 feet, and in the late spring are filled with wonderful white blossoms. If youâÂÂve ever looked at one of the blossoms up close it resembles an orchid. Flowering takes place in late spring to early summer. The flowers occur in large clusters of showy, bell shaped corollas of five lobes with ruffled edges and yellow, orange or purple interior spotting or streaking. Individual flowers are tubular shaped and measure as much as 1/2-inch across. They usually appear in clusters at the leaf tips and the clusters measure as much as 10 inches across. The flowers are good for honey production. The name derives from the Catawba Native American name Catawba (the tribal totem). The catalpa is a hardy deciduous tree that readily grows in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8. It has moderate to fast growth, tending to grow rapidly when juvenile, but slowing with maturity. The height at 20 years is about 20 feet. European settlers planted catalpa trees to produce fence posts. The wood is lightweight, and the heartwood is resistant to deterioration when placed in the ground for several years. Railroad companies grew plantations of catalpas for use as track ties and fuel wood. It was also used for making packing materials. Carpenters commonly used it for interior trim in houses. Craftsmen used it to make furniture. Pioneer doctors used the seedpods and seeds to make a decoction for chronic bronchial affections, spasmodic asthma, breathing problems and heart problems. The juice from either the leaves or roots would be used to treat swelling of an eye, green leaves were crushed and placed on swollen lymph glands and the bark was dried and ground to powder and taken in the form of tea to treat swollen lymph glands. Modern pharmaceutical research has shown catalpa trees are diuretic. It is sometimes planted to attract the green catalpa worms, which are prized fishing bait. The caterpillars can be frozen and used as bait at a later time. Here is a link that might be useful: Catalpa - a showy, fast-growing ornamental tree

How thick is the retaining wall? If it's planted only a couple feet behind the wall, it's only a matter of time before the wall cracks and crumbles. I know around here it happens all to often... retaining walls aren't meant to retain a massive root system. Even dwarf trees, given enough time, will knock it down. It all depends on time. If your 80 years old it doesn't really matter so to speek lol... if your 20 years old and plan to live in the house for some time almost any tree will cause damage. What about some tall grasses to block out the neighbor. The type of grasses that get 5-6' tall with pink or white flower spikes then some cool stuff like Juniperus horizontalis 'Mother Lode' that drapes over the wall?