Please help identify our bamboo as clumping or running
Arthaey
10 years ago
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kentuck_8b
10 years agokudzu9
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Suggestions for south Louisiana clumping bamboo?
Comments (8)Full sun is best, but mine grows in more shade which may be why it is a bit larger and taller. You may look into some of the other B. mult., or it's varieties, such as Al Karr, which grows to about 20 feet tall here, but can easily be trimmed to any height you desire. I tend to think that a well-drained sandy soil would be best, but I have seen some growing in black gumbo. Plant in a high spot as opposed to a low area where water may stand for long periods of time. I purchased my Golden Goddess online from Gib Cooper, at Tradewinds Bamboo Nursery in Oregon, but there are several bamboo nurseries out there that carry it. I like to plant it after the threat from frost is gone, usually in early March, but it can be transplanted at almost anytime of the year, with varying degrees of success. Early Spring will give the roots/rhizomes a good length of time to develop in their first critical growing season, and remember to keep them watered well during their first season and if you do fertilize, do so very lightly in it's first season. Depending on the size of the plants you receive, sometimes you can divide them into two and maybe three plants each. If not, plant them in the ground, and after a year or two, you can take divisions from them, which will keep your original purchase price down, but will take a bit longer to get thick coverage. I would suggest planting them between 4 and 8 feet apart, depending on how fast and dense of a barrier you want. I like taking a 'before' and 'after' picture so that you can see the difference. Take one of the fence before planting, take one after planting, and then one at the beginning and end of the growing season each year. I always realized that the bamboo grows fast, but I never realized how fast until comparing photos from the beginning of the season to some later on in the Summer...you will be surprised. One other thing, don't expect a whole lot of growth in it's first season, since most of the growing is going on underground. It's second season, and especially in it's third season, you will really see some growth, especially with help from extra waterings and some fertilizer. Good Luck Kt...See MoreLarge clumping bamboo for my zone?
Comments (1)Look into some of the Bambusa multiplexes varieties and also the bambusa textilis varieties. Both will tolerate extreme heat and cold down into the single digits for a few hours and below freezing for a few days without much damage....See Moreplease help identify this bamboo
Comments (30)Hey JauntyJohn, I'm certain it's not ventricosa because of it's large leaves. I'm 99 percent certain it's wamin, but it could be Eutuldoides 'swollen internode'. I only think that because it's possible, but either way, you have a pretty bamboo, and the mother canes are still green (sign of good health)....See Moreclumping bamboo(s)
Comments (16)OK, first of all, on the plant you just bought, do you see a 1 segment culm in that pot laying on its side? If so, that is how they started that plant. Before I start, let me explain one reason why some bamboo is expensive. Some of the Bambusa species propagate easily by cuttings and some do not. Some need special combinations of root chemicals to make them root. If you look through some price lists, you will see that Bambusa pervariabilis viridistriata is more expensive than Bambusa eutuldoides Viridi-vittata and that is because people are having a problem producing them in mass by stem cuttings and have to split them up. So, keep in mind that all of these might not start from cuttings, BUT ventricosa and oldhamii both start easily by cuttings. Many people can do a cutting with 1 segment but an old man 20 years ago who was very good with bamboo told me how to do it and it has been better for me to do it this way. You take a full sized culm and cut it off at ground level. The bottom part will start a new plant, so you won't lose anything in the long run. The top part of the culm, may not have enough hollow area in it to root in, so I only use the bottom part that is more hollow. You start by cutting the culm just below the node. Then on the next cut you go past the next node up and make the cut just below the second node. So, what you have is at the bottom there is a node and this is where your roots will come from. Then you have a complete section that is intact. Above that node you have more or less, a vase that is the full length between nodes. Just above that is the other node that starts your next cutting. Can you picture what I am trying to describe? OK, so this is why this works so well. You fill the top part of the cutting with water and this will seep through the top node of the cutting and go into the intact section and will feed and moisten the node where the roots will come from. Because the lower section never gets dried out by being exposed this will increase your success as opposed to the 1 node cutting that can get dried out if you forget to put more water in the "vase". If you put cuttings in a mist bed with a timer, you can get away with a 1 node cutting, but the average hobbiest doesn't have a setup like that so the 2 node cutting works a lot better. Keeping them in shade and giving them lots of water will help increase the number of cuttings that work. All the cuttings might not work, but this should do just fine. You could probably use a rooting hormone on the bottom part, especially if you use one of the liquid types of rooting hormones, but I have never needed that on the types I have done it on. They take several months and it is always best to do it when it is warm, like now is a good time....See Morejonjfarr
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