The Naked Truth about soils...
jodik_gw
15 years ago
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phoenixryan
15 years agojava_j
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The Truth About Tree Planting
Comments (40)Great post and discussion. From what I've experienced, read, and been told everything in the article right one target. The article is online at http://www.oldhousejournal.net/magazine/2007/oct/Truth_about_TreePlanting.lasso I have witnessed seedling growth rates much higher than larger b&b and potted trees. After a couple years of developing roots, the bareroot seedlings show unbelievable growth rate. I had a post a couple months ago about watering young trees and the effects of drought on trees. I had been told by my grandfather (who studied botany for his PhD) that my 6000 seedling that have gone now through 2 years of record drought will have a better root system and future potential than if they had received good rain. It didn't make sense to me at the time. After thinking about it, if the roots are fat and happy with a lot of water, they have no incentive to grow. I was told something similar by a horticulturist when discussing amending backfill around trees - don't do it because they will have no incentive to move outside the "good stuff". He also told me to "water trees good at planting and from there on out don't water again unless it doesn't rain for a month". See the link below. It is a study that proves water stressed seedling result in more root growth than well watered seedlings. My seedlings went a month or more without water multiple times over the past 2 brutal years. I admit some died, but the large majority that made it are now doing really well. According to the study, they have a better root system, and over the next couple years will likely show accelerated top growth due to the superior root system. The accelerated top growth achieved by a lot of watering is easy to see, however the more long term effects of growth rate (early root development) cannot be seen from the surface. The fact that we normally cannot see and compare this root growth makes this idea is difficult to understand. Look at page 4 of the link below. The graphs are worth 1000 words. They consistently show approx 25% increase in root length for water stressed seedlings compared to well-watered seedlings. This proved to me that my grandpa was right, even though I thought at the time, he was crazy. Morale of the story is. plant smaller trees, and after initial watering, let the trees find water on their own while developing a good root system. DonÂt use early top growth as an indicator of future/potential growth rate. I admit these ideas don't seem to pass the common sense test, but it's hard to argue with documented research. This non-common sense advice is probably why the article heading in Old House Journal states "Tree Planting 101 Hint: It's Not What You've Heard - To ensure beautiful trees for years to come, youÂre better off ignoring some popular gardening advice". The research quoted in the article is from the International Society of Arboriculture. I'm guessing they know a little bit about trees. John...See MoreWhat potting mix do you use for your amaryllis?
Comments (6)Barb, try mixing a bit of vermiculite into Al's Mix for added help in retaining water... I can't tell you how flattering it is to find one of my threads used as a link for informational purposes! I certainly hope someone is able to draw some good conclusions and useful information from it! My medium of choice is, of course, mainly inorganic... it's comprised of pine bark particles, turface or granite chips, perlite, a bit of vermiculite, and occasionally a handful of quality bagged potting mix. I water from the top, leaching occasionally to remove any salt and mineral build-up, and the majority of my bulbs remain indoors all year long, with an eastern exposure and supplemental lighting. Since I grow indoors, my bulbs are exposed to heat from the furnace in winter and cool air from the AC unit in summer... in other words, the temperature is rather consistent all year long. The only thing that really changes is the sun coming in the east facing window... in spring, the days lengthen... and in winter, they shorten. One very important thing to remember is that a container environment is VERY different from a garden environment... In the garden, there is a constantly working and self-balancing palate of worms, insects, nematodes, micro-organisms, bacterias and fungi... they are constantly breaking down the soil components, helping to keep it aerated, and digesting any organic materials which makes it available to the plants for food. That's one of the reasons organic fertilizers work so well in the garden... they have help! All this decomp and action keeps a balance of "good and bad". In a container, we don't have those things... so it's important that the decomp be very slow, that the medium provides for excellent aeration and drainage, and that we carefully water and feed a fertilizer that is readily available to our plants for use. I'm lazy indoors, and quite busy working outside for as much of the year as I possibly can... so I might re-pot my bulbs once every 3 years, or sooner or later depending on how they're growing. For fertilizer, I use a regular store bought liquid for houseplants and I supplement with a micro-nutrient. Right now, I'm using Miracle-Gro liquid. It's better to keep a plant on a constant feeding schedule with a low dose of food than to risk burning the plant with higher doses less often... and so, I use a diluted mix of liquid food and water about every other time I water. I use the food at about half-strength or less. When choosing a decent medium for your bulbs, it's important to think about where you'll be growing them, what the climate and environment is like, and how much time you'll be able to devote to growing. Proper watering is going to play a key role in growing anything in a container. More plants are killed by over-watering than any other one thing! Bulbs are very forgiving, and it's actually better to err on the dry side with Hippeastrums... if you're not sure you can feel moisture when checking the soil, it's better to wait until you're certain they're dry than to overdo the moisture... while the soil surface my feel dry, the actual area around the root ball may be plenty moist. And since Hippeastrum bulbs are prone to rotting in a poor environment, it would be better to make certain the bulb needs a drink. My pot of choice is an unglazed clay one... the material is porous and allows for "breathing"... the porosity also allows excess salts and minerals to exit, collecting around the outside of the pot. It can be wiped away and the plant leached with plenty of clear water. I will use plastic pots if I have no other choice, but I try to re-pot into clay as soon as I am able. I find that plastic holds too much moisture for too long in my particular environment. I think I've answered all the questions asked in the original post... but if I missed anything, please ask again! I'd be happy to share my growing methods, and perhaps something I share will be usable information for someone! We all have to take into consideration our climate, the environment we can provide for our bulbs, and what materials will be available to us. Hippeastrum bulbs are very resilient, but the better we care for them, the more rewarding they will be! Happy Gardening!...See MoreThe truth about cold hardy citrus taste?
Comments (25)Although I really don't have great credentials or special taste buds, consider this for your citrus craving/growing............Thomasville Citrangequat- I have 2 trees that are 10+ years old. I don't use the green fruit, but the mature yellow/orange fruit are pleasant to eat freah. They are a lot milder than grapefuit, not leaving the sour aftertaste. They are mildly sweet with enough acid. I think of them like eating a semi-sweet, orange-flavored lemon. Nothing like clarity. The trees are productive ,grow in clay, are nourished by mulch only, and have stiff 2" thorns that are a terror. I clip them off. The mature fruit will eventually become dehydrated if they hang around too many weeks. If you eat grapefruit, these won't be a challenge to eat. There is no funky component to the flavor.Because they produce a lot of fruit that don't get eaten, I grafted Brown Select satsuma and Hamlin orange buds/scions to several of the branches at a height of about 7 feet in 2009. I heard a local speaker declare that there is a theory that grafting high on a citrus trunk can provide a greater cold tolerance to the grafted branches. Well, these 8 month old new shoots were exposed to a January 2010 short-lived low temp of 14 degrees....and neither tree had any windbreak, plastic, mulch/dirt mound, gloves, or long johns. Results? One of 5 Brown Select branches died, and both Hamlin branches survived. That is plenty cold hardy enough for me to believe the 'theory'.(Side note: I also topworked 2 old sour orange tree branches at about 7 ft with BC2 satsuma and Brown Select satsuma in 2009.....all 10 Brown s. survived and 7 of 10 BC2 survived.)I imagine that with your protection strategy that the T.C. could be a survivor/producer. Maybe it would serve as a r/s also......If you enjoy lemons, then maybe a Sunquat could be considered. My 4 year old Sunquat has lemon-like fruit that average 2" to 2-1/2" diameter, and mulch is the only source of nutrients. It is in a mound of sandy soil and got no protection in that 14 degree thing. It defoliated about 15% of the leaves, and several thin newer twigs died, but that was all. Importantly, it produced a full load of fruit following the freeze. It is mild enough to eat as a lemon, and it doesn't have a funky taste component. The peel is edible, but not as tasty as kumquat peel to me. It is about 6 ft tall and wide. I saw one that was about 12 feet tall and full of fruit, but this one tends to do more branch-flopping than growing upright. There are 3 Meiwa kumquats here that are 10 years old, and they had 10% defoliation only.They produced a lot after. There is a 10+ year old Calamondin also, and it dropped 30%.It produced a lot after. The 10+ year old Armstrong satsuma lost 10%, as well as a few twigs.It had 60% fewer fruit after. The 3- 10+ year old Bloomsweet grapefruit lost 20% to 40% of the leaves, depending on which tree, and still fruited big time.If you have not eaten a Sunquat before, I would mail a couple to you. It tastes a lot like the Meyer 50% parent, but slightly better..........For those with the climate, etc. to grow the superior fruit, these may not be praiseworthy, but...they do have their place.Although not to be confused with ribeye steak,....they are a LOT better than canned Vienna sausage...See MoreNake Plumeria Statue is no longer naked!
Comments (4)I would do either of two things. Stake it to remain upright, or, next spring cut the top off about 16" or so below the tip and root that as a cutting. The lower portion I would leave in the pot and it will grow new branches. If that will still leave the bottom portion too long, you can cut it down some more to prevent it being top heavy again. So, you will have two plumeria. If you cut it into two, you will not have blooms for at least one year. If you stake it, you may get blooms next year, but the plant will still be very top heavy. Mike...See Morejodik_gw
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Brian Sakamoto (10a, CA, USA)