Root growth appears equal to leaf growth. From what I've experienced and also read is that it's totally random which comes first - the leaf or the stem.

There are several or even many cultivars which produce a substantial bulk of new roots not before the flower is over.

Among these seem to be even some of the rather modern Double Amaryllis - and that is not fine. When there are too few old roots intact the stems will not reach their full length and remain stunted and pathetic. Simply a comical effect to see these thick double flower balls on these deplorable stalks *ggg*

Root formation is stimulated by good light administration, not darkening during the forcement.

I recommend not to unpot hippeastrum bulbs prior to winter storage. Keep the roots in a good state and repot, if necessary, prior to forcing, saving as many roots as possible or, if the root network looks good, simply do not damage it and replant into a bigger pot.

Hans-Werner

Hi Mymanga,
A bright, warm spot and very easy on the watering would be helpful. Are these new bulbs that you are just potting up? If you still have some in the fridge I would get them in soil now. If they were put into dormancy for pre holiday sales that means they have not seen soil since early August of 05. Dont expect great things from them this year,just get them rooted in and healthy. Lora

I experienced that if I plant my bulbs and keep them in relative cooler temperatures, then their top growth is slower but they root down very well. So if you can, put your potted bulb in your coldest, but still heated room. Between 50-60F is great for your bulb, then when it starts to push the scape up, you just bring it in the room you want to it when it flowers.

Last paragraph of Hans-Werner is the answer.

I agree with Hans and Brigarif. Mine are cool. I repotted while dormant (this winter). Tried not to disturb the roots. Every one of the bulbs is "fast" in the pot; that is, I could (if I wanted) pick up the whole pot by grabbing the bulbs (not that I recommend this), but only have buds showing which are going very slowly. Must be patient here because my feeling is that roots are the key to a good show with most plants. Should have flowers by April, hopefully.

I agree with Hans and Brigarif. Mine are cool. I repotted while dormant (this winter). Tried not to disturb the roots. Every one of the bulbs is "fast" in the pot; that is, I could (if I wanted) pick up the whole pot by grabbing the bulbs (not that I recommend this), but only have buds showing which are going very slowly. Must be patient here because my feeling is that roots are the key to a good show with most plants. Should have flowers by April, hopefully.

I agree with everyone, but the question was not that.
I am quoting: "my bulbs have very little root growth but has flower stalks,which is bad because it will lead to small or deformed flower. Do you know how I can promote root growth?" This was the question...
So these bulbs apparently have little or no roots, so mymanga wanted a suggestion, how to promote root formation as the first phase of development instead of immediate blooming.

I have read some bulbs are notorious for poor root systems and some plants do indeed seem very slow to root - I bought six "Double Record" bulbs one year, and all bloomed long before they had a real root system. I simply supported the stalks with those looped metal stakes.

Repotting: if bulbs need repotting, I do so immediately after bloom. I simple remove the entire clump from the pot and if the roots are healthy (no rot in the clump), I leave them alone and just scratch the sides of the clump a little before adding new soil.

I have been having very good results (not perfect though) with putting newly planted bulbs downstairs (upper 60s) first (Chinese New Year pic). I always soak the roots before planting with a few drops of superthrive. No light is required, very minimal watering, until they show signs of growth, scape or leaf. Then they are exposed to more light still in that growing area. They could stay there for 3-4 weeks sometimes.

Once the scape or leaves are about 10"-12" tall, then they are moved upstairs (70s) and exposed to sunlight. At this stage, they are rooted in and bloom good. I use 4-6" clay pots and coco peat mix that would dry out in 2-3 days after watering.

But then there are varieties that will not follow the rules of the game...lol! Milady, gave out both scapes and leaves with NO roots at all.

Doesn't other kinds of bulbs do this? Planted in fall, they grow roots first during the cold temps. Top growth appears once spring comes with warmer temps. Just my 2 cents...:-)

Everything I have read on the subject of growing bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, allium, crocus, etc... states that bulbs planted in the fall will require some time to grow decent root systems in order to bloom well in spring. This would apply to bulbs planted outdoors in the north, in autumn. The bulbs will set down a decent root system so that when spring arrives, they are ready to begin top growth and flowering, as signaled by, I'm assuming, warmer soil temperatures and sunshine.

But since hippeastrums are taken out of their natural bloom schedule, and are forced into blooming around the Holidays, for the most part... I think we sort of screw them up for good root growth before blooming, as would happen if they weren't tender bulbs and were planted in autumn for intended spring flowering.

I notice that some of my hippis grow roots before or during flowering, while others seem to grow them after flowering. Some bulbs flower and are very loose in their pots, requiring staking in order to not tumble right out... others feel firmer within the soil while blooming, and may only require staking because of scape height or flower weight.

My thought is that root growth can't really be forced too much upon receipt of the bulb, but that shortly after the first flowering, it should grow and maintain a healthy and nicely established root system.