Yellow Flowering Azalea/Rhododendron in MA?

19 years ago

Has anyone had any success planting any varieties of yellow-flowering azaleas or rhododendrons in zone 6 or MA? I have had some success with Girard's Pleasant White azaleas, and I would like to add some yellow flowering plants to my blue/yellow/white flowering garden next spring (I'm trying to 'think spring' even though it's still November). I was also thinking about possibly planting Kalmia latifolia 'Snowbird'. Any ideas for other compatible plants? Thanks!

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Comments (9)

Ron_B
19 years ago
What about Rhododendron luteum? Native Eastern American species come in yellow, too.
ginger_nh
19 years ago
Jdumas-
Here are the two little leaf rhodos I plant for my gardening clients here in NH Z4-5 when I need a yellow. They sucessfully winter over and thrive. 'Mary F.' is truly yellow. 'Jerhico' is a pale yellow to start and then ages to white; this is OK because if you have bright blooms on other plants coming on, pale yellow can look very washed out. The soft white goes with just about anything. I did plant the little 'Tow Head' once in a rock garden, but it was a disappointing greenish yellow--rather sickly looking. Haven't used that one again.

R. 'Mary Fleming'
http://www.rhododendron.org/descriptionH_new.asp?ID=594

R. 'Jericho'
http://www.rhododendron.org/descriptionH_new.asp?ID=570

The American Rhodo Society lists both of these plants as doing well in Z6; see their state chapter charts below. They have a very useful site.

http://www.rhododendron.org/performers6.htm

Also check out the Northern Lights series of deciduous azaleas--very bold in the early spring landscape, blooms come early before the foliage: 'Lemon', 'Golden', and 'Spicy' are all yellows. I had a treat this year--the Northern Lights we planted in June for a customer, bloomed in September; we saw both the flowers and the foliage together. Extremely lovely.

Ginger
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Azaleas and rhododendrons are very similar in their requirements. Watering every two days is too much. You should wait until the plant just begins to get dry and then water deeply. Not blooming can be caused by fertilizing among other causes: * Pruning. The buds are formed in late summer and early fall so pruning then or later is not advisable since it will remove flower buds. New leaf buds will form in the spring, but new flower buds won't form until the next year. * Variety. Some plants will never bloom. Some rhododendrons that come from the seed of a hybrid plant will look good but will never produce flowers or will produce very poor flowers. To come true to the parent plant, a hybrid may be propagated by cuttings or tissue culture but not from seed. A good hybrid seedling only comes about once in a while. For that reason it is important to know that you are getting a good named variety or a good species. * Fertilizing. Nitrogen promotes leaf and branch growth and discourages flower bud production. It can also force late season growth that gets killed or stunted by frost damage. Phosphorus promotes flower bud production and hardiness. Potassium is necessary for well being. * Weather. Cold weather can kill flower buds. Usually you see the brown buds in the spring. Cold spells in the fall or spring can damage buds that are not hardened off. Bud blast (blooming in fall or winter) uses up good buds which are then not available at the normal blooming time. * Age. Most rhododendrons take 2 to 3 years to bloom from a rooted cutting unless forced. Some take longer and some bloom sooner. From seeds the plant may take 1 or 2 additional years. * Sun & Shade. Some rhododendrons need full sun to bloom and others can take fairly dense shade. In general, the more sun the more flower buds but also the greater exposure to damage from desiccation in summer or winter. More shade produces tall spindly foliage and less flowers. * Inspection. You can usually tell if the plant has ever bloomed. A rhododendron that has bloomed will have the seed pods on it unless it has been dead-headed. If dead-headed too late after blooming, new flower buds can be damaged. Here is a link that might be useful: How to grow rhododendrons and azaleas.
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lwarren95, Your question is very comprehensive. The answer is very basic. Rhododendrons need moist, well drained acidic soil and partial shade. They don't need much fertilizer, but if the pH (acidity) is not right, they will starve. They need acidic soil to use nutrients in the soil. Your yellow leaves imply: 1) Yellowing of a leaf between dark green veins is called chlorosis. Many conditions can be responsible. Poor drainage, planting too deeply, heavy soil with poor aeration, insect or fungus damage in the root zone and lack of moisture all induce chlorosis. After these conditions are eliminated as possible causes, soil testing is in order. Chlorosis can be caused by malnutrition caused by alkalinity of the soil, potassium deficiency, calcium deficiency, iron deficiency or magnesium deficiency. A combination of acidification with sulfur and iron supplements such as chelated iron or iron sulfate will usually treat this problem. Chlorosis can also be caused by nitrogen toxicity (usually caused by nitrate fertilizers) or other conditions that damage the roots such as root rot, severe cutting of the roots, root weevils or root death caused by extreme amounts of fertilizer. Chlorosis is where a complete acidic plant food for rhododendrons such as Holly-tone usually is good. Many times you also need powdered sulfur to help acidify the soil also. Don't be tempted to use something like Miracid; it is more of a problem than a solution. Don't fertilize after mid summer. It will force tender growth that will get frozen back if you live in a northern climate. If the plant doesn't respond to something like Holly-tone, don't use more. Less is better. The problem is more basic and may require powdered sulfur, or replanting in a raised bed with more drainage. Some other more unusual problems are: 2) Yellowing of leaves surfaces, often with brownish burned areas, occurring on leaves that are more exposed to sun, is caused by more sun exposure than the plant is able to tolerate. Some varieties need shade, while all plants that have been protected from direct sun will be tender until hardened off by gradual exposure to sun light. Possible solutions are to give the plant more shade or move it to a more protected site. 3) Yellowing and dropping of leaves is normal toward the end of the second summer on the small-leaved lepidote rhododendrons. These should have dense enough habit that this doesn't matter. The larger-leaved elepidote rhododendrons keep their leaves for 3 or 4 seasons. 4) Uniformly yellowish-green leaves is often just the need for more nitrogen. This will be more noticeable in the full sun. Some less sun tolerant varieties will always be light green in full sun. 5) Yellowing of leaf edges has been noted in gardens where sandy soil conditions or root competition with other plants caused insufficient soil moisture and nutrients. Usually incorporating organic material in the soil and removing the plants with the competing roots solved the problem. Care must be taken not to disturb the roots of the rhododendrons and azaleas. Hence it is best to prepare the soil adequately before planting. The tops of most competing plants can be removed leaving the offending roots in the ground and the offending roots will simply decay and pose no problem. Here is a link that might be useful: How to care for rhododendrons and azaleas.
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ego45
19 years ago
Rh. 'Capistrano' alledgedly should be 'a real yellow' with no pink, orange or salmon tint in it.
I have to see yet actual color of mine, which I bought this year.

Here is a link that might be useful: Capistrano
tadeusz5
19 years ago
jdumas;
a hearthy welcome to the Gardenweb and the Azalea/Rhodie
forum;

Each year the Massachussetts Chapter of the American Rhododendron Society submits a 'group' order to Van Veen Nurseries of Portland Oregon, a wholesale grower . These plants are mostly yearlings from rooted cuttings. These are hight quality plants at an exceptional prices. Here is 2005 possible 'yellow' hybrid selection that is available for members of that chapter;
August Moon , Golden Star
Banana flip , Goldfort
Bernstein , Goldstrike
Blondie , Goldsworth Yellow
Bo-Peep , Grumpy
Borneo , Harvest Moon
Cream Crest , Hotei
Crest , Inamorata
Crystal Springs , Jeanne Church
Dr.William Fleming , Merley Cream
Evening Glow , Moonstone
Festivo , Mrs Betty Robertson
Flava , Nancy Evans
Golden Harbinger , Odee Wright
Golden harvest , Shamrock
Unique , Viscy
Yellow Hammer , Yellow Petticoats
Yellow Saucer-,

-------------------------------------
This chapter also has a wonderful program called Plants for Members (P4M) where members take cuttings of their unique rhodies that they have in New England area and they propogate those and make them availbale to the other members-- last years cuttings 2004 - the list contained
over 5000 plants that were available- You will 'never' see that many varities in 'any' catolog in the world. The volunteers from the chapter who take care of this function for other members meet in Rhode Island. Even Though I live in Illinois , I took an oppurtunity myself this past spring- in obtaining the latest Hybrids that Mr.Joe Parks created in New Hempshire.-

If they dont grow it there, it probably doesn't exist unless it is very new. Check out the best web site in the world about Rhodies , and especially for zones 4-7.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mass Chapter
John Dumas
Original Author
19 years ago
Many thanks to Ginger, Ron, Ego45, and Tadeusz for a wealth of helpful information. I was particularly impressed by the vibrant yellow of 'Capistrano', 'Goldkrone' and 'Golden Lights' varieties, but I also like the paler yellow of 'Jericho', 'Goldsworth Yellow' and others. To make the decision harder I really liked the photos of 'Lackamas Blue' that I've seen, too. I'm trying to be consistent with the yellow & blue pairing that I already have in the same general area of the yard. In the spring there are daffodil and forsythia paired with muscari and squill; while in the summer there are yellow daylilies and coreopsis paired with lavender, caryopteris, hibiscus, salvia and veronica, among other things. I was hoping to brighten up the shadier areas with something that contrasts with the white azaleas I already have. It looked so much more colorful this year, considering that the previous owners had just yews and privet, exclusively. But, in fairness, they did add a beautiful pink rhododendron on the other side of the yard that was obviously well cared for. It's fun to plan and research now, and I'm looking forward to more improvements and more color in the years ahead. Thanks again.
-John
less4
19 years ago
I will second that comment on 'Mary Fleming' Rhododendron. I have had one for nearly ten years and it is a super variety. A 'small leaf' variety, by the way. And the deciduous azaleas would be great to look through to pick a yellow. There are many. One I like is 'Lemon Twist' which again I have had for a number of years. I am about equi-distant between Boston and the Cape. Come on down in the spring and I could show you both in bloom and doing very well. 'Hong Kong' I have had for years (a Rhodo) and it is good to fair. Consider membership in the Rhodo Society for much info and as has been pointed out 'group purchases'. We have a nice display of Rhododendrons at the Mass Hort Society site in Wellesley called 'Elm Bank'. I do not know what varieties are growing there but good ones I am sure. Les
isabella__MA
19 years ago
A great late summer yellow flowering azalea that I have in my front yard is Weston's Lemon Drop.
John Dumas
Original Author
19 years ago
I want to thank all of you again for your helpful suggestions. I did end up buying the 'Capistrano' variety and planted it earlier this spring. It really looks wonderful and healthy. Very dense with leaves and tons of buds that are just beginning to open right now. I have lots and lots of galium odoratum planted all around it and the small white blossoms (that are just opening also) really help to make the yellow of the Capistrano stand out. I would highly recommend this variety, and I'm told that it is quite hardy too.
mainegrower
19 years ago
Capistrano is a very nice variety but if you would like a deeper yellow, try Goldkrone. This has been completely hardy here for at least 10 years although it did not bloom fully after the January 04 conditions. Goldkrone likes/needs considerable shade, but it is a deeper, more saturated yellow than any other rhodendron I know of that can be grown in New England.

Yellow Flowering Azalea/Rhododendron in MA?

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Yellow Flowering Azalea/Rhododendron in MA?

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