Amaryllis bulbs need a cool, dry period from early fall until about December to "rest" for the upcoming blooming season. For this dormant period, I put mine in my basement and stop watering until I see new growth, usually a few months later. After blooming in the winter/spring the bulb can be put outside in the garden or left in the pot in a mostly sunny area. A little fertilizer over the summer is a good idea, so you get lush green growth. Then in late summer to early fall, start the dormant period by bringing indoors to a cool spot, and withholding water until the green growth dries up, at which time it can be cut off just above the bulb. When new growth starts, bring up from the basement, put in a warm, sunny window and start to water again, just enought to keep the soil fairly moist, not soaking wet or it will rot. You should then get new flower buds forming.

Carl is correct... the bulbs we commonly know as Amaryllis are, in fact, Hippeastrum bulbs. They originate in South America. We see them sold right around Christmas time, when they are forced for our holiday enjoyment. A true Amaryllis is in a genus of its own... Amaryllis Belladonna. More commonly known as Naked Ladies, these bulbs originate in South Africa. Neither are hardy in the northern zones, but Hippeastrum can be successfully, and quite easily, grown as a container plant. Amaryllis Belladonna does much better as a garden plant in the southern zones, and because it doesn't like to be disturbed once settled in, growing this bulb in a container is more difficult. Not to confuse you further, but the bulbs we know as Naked Ladies in the northern zones are actually Lycoris Squamigera. They look very similar to Amaryllis Belladonna, but have the advantage of being hardy to around zone 5. Different growers subscribe to different ways of growing Hippeastrum bulbs... the lucky ones live in areas where they can be grown directly in the garden... but us northern gardeners, even though forced to containerize them, each have our different methods for success. Some will grow them as houseplants, allowing them to rest and bloom on their own natural schedule, while others force a dormancy to have blooms at different times throughout the year. We each subscribe to different soils and different fertilizer programs, as well. As you read through the forum postings, you'll see the many different ways in which we each make the best of our climates and growing environments, and how we each give our bulbs the care they need to thrive. I, myself, allow my bulbs to tell me what they need. Through careful observation, I know when my bulbs want less water because they're resting, and when they need more water because they've begun active growth. I feed on a low-dose, constant basis... and I use an inorganic, bonsai-like medium in which to grow them. I try to pot them all in unglazed clay so the roots can "breathe", and so any accumulated salts can more easily leach out through the porous walls. I never force a dormancy, but instead, have early spring blooms... which is their natural bloom cycle. Hippeastrum bulbs are very forgiving... to a point. They hate "wet feet", and prefer to dry out in between waterings... and they don't usually survive a hard freeze. They like lots of sunshine, careful watering, a good feeding program, and they require a rest after a summer of good growth to recharge. When I first purchase a bulb, I peel away any dried, dead layers, check the bulb for any rotting areas or soft spots, dust it lightly with an anti-fungal powder as a preventative measure, and I pot the bulb in a very free-draining medium with at least 1/2 to 2/3 of the bulb above soil level. I water it in to settle the medium, then wait for growth to appear before watering again. From then on, I am careful to water only when the medium is dry. I hope this helps... everyone here is extremely helpful and generous, so please feel free to ask any questions you may have. Apple Blossom is a beautiful variety... I think you'll be pleased! Alana, I think if you plant the bulbs in a protected area, such as the south side of a building, or close to a heated building, they should be fine. A good, thick layer of mulch every fall should ensure garden success. Although, with the goofy weather lately... who really knows? :-)

Thanks for your help, everyone. I read an old post that said an amaryllis plant needs to send up at least 8 healthy leaves in order to flower the following year. The fellow I talked with said that he had never heard of such a thing. Do we know whether or not this is true? For example, can an amaryllis with only one, very tall leaf flower the following year? I'm glad I didn't cut off my plant with the shriveled bud! I guess that man thought I wanted only one bloom and then would throw away the plant, instead of understanding I wanted to preserve the bulb for future blooms. He said he'd never heard of nurturing the leaves through the summer for future blooms. I should add that it never actually sent up much of a scape. The shriveled bud is about 3" long, emerged from the top of the bulb, without the stalk/stem of the scape yet showing. The bud has some vertical brown streaks on one side. So it aborted early, before the stalk poked up, even. I wonder whether I could have overfertilized? I read that amaryllis likes soil a bit on the acid side so I diluted some African violet fertilizer 7-7-7 and poured it in the pot the amaryllis is in, after quite a bit of foliage had emerged, trying to be very careful not to get it on the bulb, just in the surrounding soil. These 2 plants with the more lush and longer leaves might have gotten more of the fertilizer-water than my others that have shorter leaves, although I wouldn't think so, but it is possible. Could that explain the brown streak on the bud and its shriveling? The leaves don't have any brown on them. The plant that has only several tall leaves of foliage is standing up by itself tonight. I had propped it against the bookcase, and when I move it, it no longer flops over. The one with the shriveled bud has 2 leaves which stand up on their own tonight, but 2 other leaves still need to be propped up, because they will flop without the support. If I did overfertilize and that caused the bud to shrivel, will that cause the bulb not to bloom next year, do you think? Does the Narcissus fly tend to cause the phenomenon of an amaryllis with only one leaf? I thought I read that somewhere in the forum, but I'm not sure?

Archoo, Continue to water and fertilize your plant and leave it in front of your south facing glass door. Perfect spot for it until the temps warm considerably. It must be much warmer than just the word spring before you put it outside for the summer. When it goes outside in a month or two, continue to feed and water it until early fall. The leaves must continue to grow to nourish your bulb so it will bloom again. If you want your bulb to bloom for the holidays then check back to the forum and then ask what to do next fall. Otherwise, you can allow your bulb to grow as an evergreen, bringing it back in the house when the nights get below 40 degrees F and it will bloom on it's own when it's ready, maybe in Feb, or March of next year. Donna