Could also be gophers. I've already lost 2 maters and 1 bell this year because of them. I'm actually trying to nurse the bell back in a pot. There were some roots still left on it, so I pulled it and transplanted to a small pot with 5-1-1--- Fingers crossed. It's pretty tough for me to control them because they dig under the fence, nip the roots and then head back to the neighbor's yard. I've already gone through a container of bait so far. Pam: From my experience, cutworms pretty much just clip the seedlings at the soil level. What I found to be very effective--- when planting, put 2-3 toothpicks right up next to the stalk when transplanting. About a half hour after watering so the soil settles a tad. This prevents them from being able to wrap around the stalk and "cut." I haven't lost a seedling yet since i started doing this a about 5 years ago. Good luck. Kevin

Shoot it the next time they see it. Who knows what/who it will attack next. They are mainly herbivores so they shouldn't be attacking anything, except in defense of it's young, which is too early in the year. I would also contact your county animal warden to see if it would need to be checked for rabies if you can catch it in a live trap or kill it. Tami (yess I know my response isn't going to be popular with some people here)

Make sure they get plenty of light (see "Do I need special lights") and fertilize weekly (see" I'm new to starting seeds...?). When they're big enough to handle,usually when they have 2-3 sets of leaves, it's time to transplant them to individual containers,or space them out if you have them in a community flat. Those sown in individual containers should be thinned to the strongest seedling by snipping off the extras with scissors. Now that damping -off is less of a risk, you may want to use a part soil mix for "potting on", 1 part sterile potting soil to 2 parts vermiculite or perlite and /or sphagnum or peat, for the sake of economy. If you need to transplant,very carefully dig up the plants, with a knife or wooden label,etc.,taking care to get under the roots. Separate them gently, handling them by the leaves rather than the easily-damaged stems . I often use a pencil to help untangle the roots, using the same pencil to poke a hole in the soil ,making it deep enough that the roots can dangle and the seedling can be placed at the same depth it was growing previously. Firm the soil around the roots, and water well. Repeat until you're cross-eyed,then start again the next day..... Weather permitting ,seedlings may be transplanted outdoors at this stage ,or grown on indoors for larger transplants. Before planting out, seedlings or young plants must be "hardened off" over a period of 10-14 days. Begin by putting plants out in shade, giving some shelter from wind, and gradually exposing them to sun, maybe an hour at first,increasing an hour each day. Cut back on watering,but don't let them go completely dry. Once they're hardened off, they're ready to go outside permanently (where they belong!!). If possible,pick a cloudy day . Again, try to handle the roots with care,and set the plant at the same depth it was growing (though tomatoes benefit by being planted deeper,roots will form along the stem)firm the soil around the roots and water well, a dilute solution of water-soluble 15-30-15(a teaspoon to a gallon of water) will help stimulate the roots. When all your plants are in the ground, fix yourself a tall,cool one and celebrate !

I hear you about the tap root development vs. the feeder root development argument. But I believe that since my plants roots are down to the bottom of the pot w/in about 10 days after sowing and out to the edges of the pot too, then the fibrous root trigger is happening. I believe your argument comes into play when seeds are sown directly into the garden, where there are no bounds. However, I will be open minded, as I was with the use of peat pots, and I will closely observe my plants roots tonight. If they have not been triggered into developing feeder roots, then there should be a tap root that has a few lateral branching roots, usually evenly spaced apart along the tap root, and not many fibrous roots. I also agree with you that most people over water plants. In my prior career, I did grow for a large commercial nursery with over 200 acres, albeit for only 7 years before switching careers. I was in the "color" department, which grew about 25 acres of annuals, perennials and holiday plants. Seven years is not nearly a long enough time to become a thorough expert, but I do know the basics.