I have a horrible time with creeping charlie myself. It drives me crazy, and I really hate the smell of it. The best I can tell you is that creeping charlie is easy to pull up. Get a pair of garden gloves on, and start pulling. Then I would put some kind of physical barrier around your strawberries. Last year I put a raised garden bed literally in the middle of a patch of creeping charlie. I pulled up all the creeping charlie first, and then turned over the soil to make sure I killed all the roots. Then hubby helped me build a raised garden bed, which we filled with a foot and a half of soil or so. The creeping charlie still surrounds the raised bed (then I pull it all out), but it has never gotten in the bed.

Pull it. Too much borax/boron or any other mineral will cause changes in your strawberries. Another thing with this mineral is that it is an insecticide not a herbicide. If you have any earthworms or any bugs pollenating your strawberries or any other plant in your garden they will be killed by touching and cleaning their bodies. Some can ingest through their skins so just a touch is deadly.

I was just at my local nursery today and picked up some flyers on various gardening topics, this being one of them (for my neighbor). My neighbor's lawn is almost fully covered with it. She just recently treated it with some commercial product, not sure what she used, but on my side of the fence are my newly planted clematis vines, and she's spraying just on the opposite side. I'll cry if she kills my plants, but her creeping charlie problem still presides, hence the reason for the flyer. Before discussing the flyer, here's what I've done to resolve my creeping charlie problem: When we purchased our home back in 2004 my whole yard was covered with weeds, creeping charlie one of them though not as bad as my neighbors yard now. We tried the annual application of weedkiller treatments (weed & feed commercial products), but that never seemed to help, and I'm impatient to begin with so I finally started pulling them by hand (with a weeding tool). In my opinion and based on much research along with my own experience, most commercial weed treatments (chemicals) end up killing or weakening your grass in the long run, making it more susceptible to weeds. As an example, we put in a planting bed the first year, and pulled out the grass by hand -- no problem, the grass was really weak. Probably a combination of the chemicals we were applying in addition to lack of nutrients in the soil as the previous owners left this place in a shambles. We switched to organic products, stopped using the commercial chemical products on our lawn, and later decided to extend the existing planting bed - by that time, the grass was so strong we had to rent a tiller. Basically we use organic chicken poop and apply it with a garden spreader in 60 day intervals starting early spring. I read about it on a lawn care website/forum, but I don't remember the site. The product we use most is Cockadoodle Doo, but there's also Chickity Doo Doo. I found the Chickity Doo Doo to have more of an odor to it than the Cockadoodle Doo, but not overpowering by any stretch of the imagination and I'd recommend either of these (Chickity Doo Doo was less expensive). Cockadoodle Doo has a website where you can search for local vendors in your area, and when I do find it I jump on it because most places sell out fast. Both brands have the fertilizer and the weed control products, and you alternate these throughout the season - weed control early spring, 60 days later fertilizer, 60 days later weed control again, and then fertilize again in the fall. Essentially the way the product works is that it feeds your lawn making it strong and healthy, enabling the grass to fight and erradicate weeds on its own. It's safe for pets, plants, etc. My lawn is beautiful now, lush, green and we always get compliments - it took a couple of years, but looks nice and plush now and rarely do I find weeds. Google Cockadoodle Doo and review the FAQ page for more info. I'm not claiming that this product erradicated creeping charlie on its own, but the combination of my persistence in weeding by hand an using the organic products has been successful in my own yard. Thankfully my neighbors lawn is on the OTHER side of my driveway where I have only a narrow strip of planting space that I've mulched over, so hopefully my C.C. days are over. Yes, I've told my neighbor about Cockadoodle Doo, but no, she hasn't gone out to get any. Perhaps this may be a future "gift" from the neighbors. LOL. As for the flyer: It states that the plant (Creeping Charlie aka Ground Ivy, Glechoma Hederacea - an aggressive perennial weed of the mint family introduced by Europeans as a groundcover) often becomes dominant in lawns that are partially shaded, cut too short or compacted (i.e. the grass grows weaker). It suggests to mow high, 2.5-3" to help grass compete better. Taller grasses shade out weeds and has deeper roots than shorter grass. Have your lawn core aerated once a year to reduce compaction, increase drainage and invigorate old turf. Re- seed thin areas with fresh grass seed. Most common active ingredients in weedkillers have little effect on creeping charlie....'Dicamba' is known to control it with repeat applications, but should not be used more than once a year or under trees and shrubs to avoid risk of injury to those plants. Another active ingredient listed to control is 'triclopyr', but again with repeat applications. Use weedkiller during active growth stage, when plant is flowering in May-June, and in fall after a few frosts, usually Oct. Don't mow just before or for a few days after using weedkiller. Don't apply in summer b/c the lawn can be killed by weedkiller. Liquid weedkillers are often more effective b/c they cover more leaf surface. Suggested products: 1. Ortho Weed-b-Gon Chickweek, Clover and Oxalis Killer; active ingredient triclopyr. 2. Fertilome Weedout, active ingredient dicamba. Good luck!

If you really wanted to try and eradicate it, you could mix the directed dosage of both weed b gone and weed b gone chickweed clover killer after the first frost this fall. Then 2 weeks later apply only the weed b gone chickweed killer again. Next spring when the ground ivy is flowering, repeat those same procedures. Weed b gone has dicamba in it and that can only be applied 2 times a year. The chickweed weed b gone does not have that restriction. I am out of town and cannot look at my notes or the labels on my bottles. But I think what I wrote makes sense. Others please comment if you disagree. Also when I do spray I try to only contact the weeds. I don't completely spray the entire lawn, just spot spray. I have a mixed greens lawn that includes clover so I don't want to kill that. I just read your question again and thought of this. If your weed b gone max includes triclopyr, then you would use the chickweed killer at 1/2 the labeled directions when mixing them. I am not familar with the other chemicals you asked about. And for the record I am not a fan of using chemicals. But when I use them I make sure that the timing is ideal and that I fully understand how to use them. Please read the labels!