"Plants need to be fed" Boy, I wish I had a dime for every time I've heard that statement! And it is not particularly accurate :-) Plants manufacture their own food - that's what the process of photosynthesis does. What they DO need is access to basic nutrients to facilitate this process and depending on current soil conditions, those nutrients may very likely already be present. Remember that no one is out there in the wilds and natural areas applying fertilizer and the plants grow just fine! It is never a good idea to apply fertilizer without at least a basic soil test to determine what, if anything, may be missing or deficient. The application of fertilizer unnecessarily may cause more problems than it it solves. Gratuitous applications of fertilizer just "because" or in the mistaken belief that plants must be "fed" are fabrications of the fertilizer industry. In most cases, other than containerized plants, harvested edibles and annuals, woody plants seldom need additional fertilizer. And often the application of a good organic mulch will adequately supplement what might be required. Plants will generally tell you if they require nutrient supplementation - growth will be slow or stunted, foliage discolored or small and flowering or fruiting light. If that is the case, have a professional soil test done to determine what may be amiss. And if new to the area or gardening in general, a baseline soil test is a good idea to get you on the right track. Once you've determined that any nutrient deficiency exists, THEN you can fertilize to address that need. But fertilizing just for the belief that it is the proper thing to do is not an acceptable horticultural practice and can lead to problems. Plants that are over fertilized tend to be less cold and drought tolerant, more disease prone and overly susceptible to insect predation. btw, lots of lawn fertilizers contain phosphorus, but in relatively low percentages. Phosphorus is still an essential plant nutrient and may not be present in adequate levels in all soils, especially those with recent construction or other disturbance or removal of native topsoil. Here is a link that might be useful: the perils of over-fertilization

Dig a few of them up, put them in some potting soil and pots and then sell them on ebay. You could at least $4 a pop for each healthy seedling... :) Feel free to send a couple my way... :)

o South side of the house may prevent your landlord from collecting solar energy and will lower solar gain in the winter. You want straight west or next best is southwest. o Fast growing is bad. Especially here. Maple will be susceptible to chlorosis and the ash will succumb to emerald ash borer or lilac ash borer within a decade. You won't get shaded during your time there so best to choose the right tree for the right place for the right reason. o Here is the accepted best list of recommended trees for the Front Range. Choose an A then come back here with your narrowed choices. This post was edited by WxDano on Fri, Apr 5, 13 at 21:43

Buffalo grass doesn't do well in shade, and it doesn't do well with frequent shallow watering. After its established, you will be watering every 2-3 weeks. How about Desert Willow - it casts dappled shade, and it's capable of sucking up all the water you give it on whatever schedule. Messy with all the flowers, but the leaf drop is minimal until they suddenly all fall off after a frost. After the initial establishment period, just soak the heck out of the trees root area every month or so and it will get the rest from the lawn watering.