It sounds nice... and if you need any help in re-energizing your bulb, we're glad to help!

For picture posting, the first thing you need to do is find an online photo storage site to upload your picture to... PhotoBucket or Picasa come to mind... and there are others. Just find the one that suits you, and create a free account. Upload your pictures, following album site directions, making sure they're sized appropriately for forum posting... about 600 x 600 pixels is average, I think.

Then, choose the HTML coding for each photo to copy and paste here within the body of your message. Let us know if you need assistance... we're happy to help!

As for taking care of you RED LION now the bloom is gone, keep the soil moist but not wet and when new foliage begins to grow (if it hasn't already) move the plant into as much sunlight as it will stand w/o burning the foliage. Use a water soluble fertilizer and 1/4 the recommended rate and use this every time you water. Flush with plain water once a month. Soon as the weather is warm enough you can set it outside in a protected area or, if you have a spot, you can set it in the ground, again in as much sun as it will take w/o burning the foliage. If you do not have a flower bed it can be tucked into, I would re-pot it into the next size larger pot when you move it outside to a patio (sheltered from direct sun and strong winds, increase the fertilizer to 1/2 the recommended rate and around mid July, switch to a blossom builder formula, in fact you could do that when you take it outside - one make for African Violets works really well.

When the nights begin to get cool and stay cool it is time to bring it indoors to a well light yet cool area, lessen the amount of water as the foliage dies back, IF it dies back. Maintain the plant in a cool (well lighted if still green and growing) for at least 6 weeks or until it shows new growth. Then bring it into the best light you have and warmer temps; increase water as foliage dictates, resume the fertilizer program you had the bulb on after it had flowered and be patient. Most amaryllis and especially RED LION will put out new foliage before a bloom stem. If the bulb recuperated enough and was able to initiate a new bloom stem during the summer it should bloom. Perhaps only one stem - that will depend on how much growth the bulb made - but it should produce at least one.

That ought to get you going! You can always come back and read new posts later - we always seem to re-hash the same topics and sometimes with something new we have learned from caring for out own collection!

Thanks for the posts!

Yep, the Red Lion put out a pile of leaves before its flower stalks, so it'll probably maintain that pattern in the future.

It's living in a south facing window with plenty of light, so that should help it recharge for next year.

I'll have to see what I can do about posting a link to a photo.

Growing inside, I had the best luck with a southern exposure... but an east window will do. As luck would have it, I don't have a nice southern window here... it's shaded by huge Sycamore trees. My large Minerva seems to love the east facing window, however, and blooms very nicely there.

Not to upstage Rebecca, but...

Instead of keeping the soil moist, I would suggest allowing it to dry out fairly well in between waterings. It's that constant moisture around the root ball that causes the eventual rotting of the roots and bulb. Roots that are constantly wet will die, and those dead roots can rot. Rot can spread quite quickly from the roots to the actual bulb. And because there is no garden-like balance of good and bad bacteria, fungi, and microscopic organisms, the balance can quickly lean toward the bad, and rotten bulbs are the result. Container gardening is worlds away from growing in a garden... huge differences!

Let's not forget that the bulb, itself, is a reservoir for moisture, so it will not begin to wilt and die if the soil is not kept consistently moist. Plants take in water in vapor form, and soil that feels almost dry to our sense of touch may still actually have a good amount of moisture in it, in vapor form.

In my experience, it's better to treat Hippeastrum bulbs closer to how you would treat a succulent... allowing the medium to dry out fairly well before thoroughly watering again.

Of course, if you're using a very fast and free-draining, gritty type of aerated medium, watering more frequently would not be detrimental.

I'd go with a different fertilizer regimen, myself. There's no need for a fertilizer with larger amounts of P than N. If my reading is correct, I believe it is not necessary. What is necessary, though, is making sure your plants have a decent supply of micro-nutrients, and making sure the fertilizers you choose are instantly accessible to the roots for uptake.

There is a wealth of educational information over at the Container Gardening Forum... they constantly discuss mediums, fertilizer programs, and most important, the WHY and HOW of all that happens within the confines of a pot. Excellent reading!

When you get to the point where you have your photographs uploaded and stored online, let us know... from there, it's fairly easy to post them.

Okay, I've posted some garden photos of mine, including one of my Red Lion amaryllis in bloom taken in December. Let's see if this works:

Here is a link that might be useful: Red Lion Amaryllis