Sawtooth Oak Growth Examples
Tim
13 years ago
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poaky1
13 years agogardningrandma
13 years agoRelated Discussions
sawtooth oaks
Comments (5)About trees adjusting to their new site/soil. I started planting a lot of trees around our new house in Winchester, VA 5 years ago and have had an interesting time watching them start growing--or not. The soil we have here is somewhat different from any soil I have been familiar with. One of its characteristics is that when it gets dry it gets very, very hard. There is a fair amount of clay in it, and in spite of my studying the soil survey book I have I am not sure I understand completely why it gets so very hard. When it is really dry I need a very good strong digging bar (mine is 8' and is an especially tough old one better than anything one can get today in any common hardware store) to make any kind of hole. To dig a hole through this dry ground takes the use of this bar and a lot of patience, going down about one inch at a time. When the soil has good moisture, I can dig in it much like any soil. Well, I think this characteristic of my soil may have something to do with why my trees are getting such a slow start. My Norway spruce is doing about as well as anything (its adaptability again), but my maples, black gum, fir trees, white pines, and a whole host of others are really, really slow. But they are gaining ground, and my soil survey says my soil is a class two forest soil, which is pretty good. So eventually my trees will do fine, and every year a few more "take off." Oh, by the way, my soil was also formed over limestone, which outcrops in a couple of places, but in general my soil is reasonably deep--4 feet or more, with more clay, sometimes a lot of clay, lower down. --Spruce...See MorePhotos of Old Growth Forest on East Coast
Comments (35)Tom: If adelgids are not accidentally transported to your area, the "natural" movement of the infestation should leave you untouched for many years. By then, if some control method using these beetles works out, people will know what to do by then to protect the hemlocks. But, and here is a depressing story, the nectria/scale disease was no where near my Western MD timberland, and was not expected to get there for a long, long time. Then, some jerk, decided that he would bring a truckload of firewood down from his place in Maine to Kempton, MD, which is about 4 miles south of my land. Of course, the logs he brought were from dying beech trees--all infested with the disease. So I not only will lose my hemlocks, but also my beech trees. Carrying firewood from Maine to the mts of western MD is as wierd and senseless as it gets, even forgetting about the fact that he should have known better, seeing the beech trees die there. Lets hope no one decides to take any hemlock trees from some infested area up to Wisconsin! Oh, as for the beetles--they are trying several kinds--I think at least three, but I have not kept up on the details of each kind. One issue of concern is that one or more of the beetles they are trying feed exclusively on the adelgid, making it difficult to get a population built up BEFORE the infestation starts, and after the infestation starts, it is difficult to get the beetle population to catch up with the numbers needed to make an impact. There are all kinds of complications facing these efforts. --Spruce...See MoreHow to encourage fast growth from Post Oak Acorn?
Comments (14)In my experience which is just with a couple oaks, ( Burr and English) direct sowing where the tree is to grow is the best thing I know of. Those 2 trees are growing great, the Burr did about 4-5 ft in the 2 years from acorn sowing, usually after a transplant, the first year is about 5 inches max height growth, vs. 2-3 ft from acorn, no watering needed in a dry spell. The tree will be stalled for a year or 2 to replace the root mass, to resume the maximum growth in a potted tree. I have dug up trees about 1-2 ft tall in the past, and the oaks have such deep roots, I swear they went to China. I'm talking a 1 foot tall red oak Q. Rubra, with a root system that I never did find the end of, and I THINK the red oaks don't have as deep a taproot as a White oak family oak. You can get an oak in a pot and it will transplant fine etc. but, if you've got the acorn, you know where you want the tree, you are prepared to protect it from critters til spring, it just makes sense to direct sow, maybe refridgerate a spare acorn or 2. I guess if your in a critter riddled area, you've got no choice but to pot, but if you can direct sow, that is the best in my opinion. And I have a limited amount of experience, I would say about 20 years since I planted my first oak. The first oak I planted is about 40+ ft tall, and is putting out acorns, it is a Q. Rubra, or Q. Velutina, likely Velutina, no real fall color. I will add that Sycamores can lose a ton of roots and bounce back like nobody's business. Poaky1 Oh, I have a Q. Alba from an acorn but it in a lot of shade so only did a foot from acorn, but I'm talking nearly full shade, the tree that shades it is on it's way out likely within 10 years, and the Q. Alba can hang in there in shade til this other tree croaks. But of course all this I said is for my yard, and YMMV. Poaky1...See MoreOaks, oaks, oaks!
Comments (46)Norbert, that map of your hardiness zones IS CONFUSING TO ME. I am likely wrong, But, I can't help but wonder how HUNGARY is zone 7a and zone 7b, BUT, everyone around them seems to be zone 6b, and possibly zone 6a in some places. Norbert, I am really only able to grow the Quartz mountain Live oak. AND, it is ONLY QMLO trees that have trunk girths of about 3/4 of an inch or more, NOT, those little whips with tiny little trunks that are way smaller than measurement worth measuring. This QMLO I have, It is Extra hardy, and only recently my area has been getting some REALLY hot summers. Is it from global warming? Maybe, or maybe not. BUT, Norbert, IF you really want to grow a Evergreen oak, the Hybrid of Q. Robur ( English oak) and the Q. Ilex ( Evergreen oak) ummmm..... yeah, I can't remember the name of that hybrid oak. I had gotten one to plant about 4 years ago, kinda illegally, BUT, it had died here in my zone 6a winter. Okay, it was called the "Turner's oak". Norbert, if you are really in a a zone 7a area. AND, you can get a "Turners oak" or even a Q. ILEX, Q. ILEX is an evergreen oak that can do great in an area that doesn't have a ton of sunlight in summer and heat. REALLY, the Q. ILex is likely going to be MUCH easier to find in Europe at nurseries to plant. And it IS an Evergreen oak, and it is zone 7a hardy. It is really impressive in old age. NOT, LIve oak tree impressive, BUT, it is a nice tree in old age. I replied to your message Norbert. BTW Norbert, I have my big yard in thanks to my family, I could never afford to buy this OVER 3 ACRES of nice rural property. Since my dad passed away, I am the 1 who cuts the grass and tries to fight back the weeds, and cuts around all of those damned trees I planted. MY dad was super pissed about all of my trees, I had made big mulch circles around them, so it would be easier for him. I miss my dad, he passed away, BUT, ANYWAY, I have been using "GLYPHOSATE" or "GLYPHOSPHATE" which of the 2 means "I"VE BEEN USING "ROUNDUP", and I am hoping that "Glyphosate" or however you say it doesn't prove to be a big cause of cancer, because #1 I use it alot, I don't want cancer #2 It does well to stop weeds from taking over places #3 It is great in Lue of burning weeds to make for garden plots....See MoreIris GW
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