the long way should run east to west. The doors facing east to west. If its 8x10 I would say do what you can to get the most growing space possible. You will want it bigger. Make sure to have adequate ventilation too. You wouldn't think you would need it a whole lot here but even on 40 degree days it can easily get to 60 some in the greenhouse and when its 50 out and sunny 70+ degrees. As for storage, I would store things under shelves so you leave the shelves open for as many plants as you can fit in there. Maybe some hanging basket brackets or something so they don't take up shelf space too. Air flow too get a fan. Air flow makes plants move with in turn creates a stronger plant. I would think a wood heater would work fine although you might want to look into keeping it outside instead of in so you won't waste space on that too. So many things to think about and so little time, lol. I look forward to seeing pics of it.

I currently grow in a spare bedroom upstairs with a west facing window. It gets quite hot when the sun shines, especially in the spring. I shut off the heat vent in the winter and it still gets up around 90 degrees plus on sunny days. All the wattage from the lights heats up the room a lot too. I currently have a 400W HID light over a table, a wire shelving unit with some old cheap shop lights on one level and a nice new T5 four tube fixture on the other level. A couple of clamp on lamps with high wattage compact fluorescents supplement some areas. I used to have a Wonderlite but it died and I switched to the compact fluorescents. I used to run a humidifier, but with the room door shut, I have enough humidity (enough to actually grow a bit of mold on the windowsill!) I overwinter large tropicals (mostly tropical hibiscus, some vines like allamanda, passiflore, mandevilla, tropical waterlilies and I have an assortment of smaller houseplants and orchids in there. I also start some flower seeds for outdoors in the spring. My main problem is that the plants get leggy with the high heat and not quite enough light. I'm thinking that if I move in the basement, which is significantly cooler, the plants will be happier. Although if I use a greenhouse indoors, it may hold in so much heat that it doesn't matter. The other plus is that I can splash water on the concrete floor, and I can drag the big shrubs in and out of the house through the basement door instead of dragging them up a flight of stairs and spilling soil all over the carpet. For the larger plants, if I were to do it over again, I would buy a 1000 watt HID light and be done with it. The 400 isn't quite large enough for my large collection. Or I may buy another 400 watt and use both - you can put the smaller light closer since it puts out less heat, so the actual light the plants get is at least as good with 2 400's at with one 1000. For me, the smaller plants on wire racks work best with either the T5's (I'm tired of cheap shop lights dying prematurely) or the CFL's. I would love the separateness of a greenhouse outdoors, but the heating here is cost-prohibitive, and our local utility just increased rates 50% - ouch. Plus in the house I have the assurance that a short power outage wouldn't freeze everything to death. We also have very heavy ice and snow here that can collapse all but the sturdiest greenhouses. As for your cooling issue, that's a tough one. What do you want to grow? How about one of those portable A/C units?

Thanks for your input guys. I was also looking into the tube bender DIY method as BW recommended. Against common sense, I was hoping someone would convince me stickframing was economical and practical, as I am experienced with it. But oh well! I will have to sit down and do some serious estimating. For all I know it may be cheaper to purchase a package and assemble it myself vs. buying every component seperately. As far as foundations are concerned, Im pretty sure I could get away with only shallow-footings in SW Florida. I would prefer not to pour a floor since a 32'x96' is a lot of concrete. As far as glazing, Im not looking for the cheapest, but rather a balance between performance, and longevity for a reasonable price. Any advice is really appreciated. I am fairly inexperienced, but I am trying to learn. I have read many books, and plenty online, but nothing beats real world practical advice.

i am also about to start constructing a series of frames on my allotment. I will be using breeze blocks for the sides with the back higher than the front. I am going to line them with polystyrene which you buy in slabs for roof insulation. The polystyrene will be 50mm thick. The important thing is that the lining will be flush to the breeze blocks but level all round, therefore the breeze blocks will be approx 30cm higher at the back than the inner lining. For glazing, i am having it double glazed - the outer layer placed on the breeze blocks, obviously sloping downwards. the inner glazing will sit on the polystyrene. When condensation occurs, it will fall evenly off the inner glazing rather than pouring to the front of the frame and down the wall. The double layers of concrete and polystyrene will provide very good insulation as i am planning on using these frames to start lots of veggies and flowers without any extra source of heat. I know this sounds complicated but it is not and it is also fairly cheap to build. especially if you can use salvaged windows. Breeze blocks and polystyrene are not expensive and do not need to be cemented in place (altho' i may as i am planning on building four, 2.5m x 1.2m x .5m-.8m high, in a permanent spot). I may also build one which is 1.2m square and use it as a hotbed - useful to grow melons in East Anglia (UK). Have fun