I experienced so considerable differences in blooming performance dependent on the storage conditions of bulbs. From best to worst: pre-year bulbs in pots, undisturbed, stored at 9-17°C. pre-year bulbs in pots, 9-17°C, removed and replanted prior to forcing pre-year bulbs removed and stored in peat, 9-17°C pre-year and freshly bought bulbs with dried roots, 9-17°Celsius ... Bulbs with dry roots kept a prolonged time at >17°Celsius. And: Bulbs without roots (very poor performance, dependent on the cultivar) I do not agree that blooming of knight star lily is undifferentially regarded as binary event only (yes/no) I want to encourage everyone seriously interested in the subject to access knowledge of the massive spectacle what an amaryllis bulb bears hidden inside - only to be evoked by carefull husbandry, understanding that an entity of untouched roots is essential for full maximal performance. So at least everything practible should be done to save the deplorable poor remainder of a previous root entity which is attached to a marketed hippeastrum bulb. SO: Plant your freshly bought bulbs IMMEDIATELY. In CoCo fiber substrate, just a little bit moist (the correct degree of moisture being obtained by compressing aliquots with your fists thus removing the excessive amount. Store the pots at 9 to 13°Celsius - and keep the substrate just moist - most preferably from below (taking into consideration that no one will believe me *ggg* - but the water administration from below is another darling subject of mine *ggg* - not today. Hans-Werner

The plant called geraniums that is grown as a bedding annual is actually a pelargonium. There was a mix-up back when old Linnaeus was running around naming things, and the name stuck ;-) Pelargoniums are annuals in the north, as a hard freeze will kill them. I keep some old blankets and sheets around, and just watch the forecasts. 'Pellies' aren't sissies about the cold though, they will do fine through a light frost with a blanket. I extend the season in the fall with blankets too. They just grow much slower when it is chilly. They also don't like it too hot either, by the way. Mine suffer a bit when it gets in the mid-high nineties. True geraniums are hardy perennials, many are native to North America. There is some similarities to the leaves, and the flower shape between the two species. But, pelargoniums are native to Africa, where they are perennials, and succulents at that. Both are great plants. Both get discussed on this forum. It is a bit confusing at first. If you overwintered yours in the house, you have pelargoniums. :-) The FAQs on this forum has a better explanation of the name mix-up than I gave. I can hardly wait to put my pellies outside for the year. :-) Oh, and I'm just a gardener out to learn. More knowledgeable posters, please correct anything that I was incorrect about.

chsanc2., I live in Massachsetts. It would be nice if we did get together....If I fail with storage on these. I have no problem growing these things perfectly while growing outside. I started cutting last winter. Then after the winter and pulling them out again, I fed them according to the grower I bought them from "dynamite". I only fed two. I was scared to give anything really since they were from cuttings. The two from cuttings grew inflos that I fed dynamite too, the others just big beautiful leaves. So this will be my first winter storing them away from the start to finish. That is rooted ones. I just talked to the grower, and he said that many, get this, take all the soil off the roots and store them in a very dark place. They have no leaves, they are in the dark, therfore no need for any water,none. So I will try it as he suggested with a couple. He said if I loose them, then he will send me more. Nice man he was. He also said I could leave the others in the potted soil with no light, just do not water. And before I store them in the basement in dark, to make sure the soil is dry or roots will rot. Also he said to cut all the leaves off. He said the advantage to no light and no leaves is no tip rot, nor spidermites on leaves. In our area, if we grow them as tropicals all winter, they won't rest properly, and they will be invaded by mites...Hum Hope this helps everyone. I figured who knows best than a grower of plumeria for over 20 years. Almost sounds like you can winter them like bulbs ha. P.S. Important. He said contrary to what people think, do not spray the leaves with water while indoors. This brings the onset of mold spot if you have leaves, and tip rot. They get hot sun all summer while outdoors, therefore if the leaves get wet, no rot. But indoors not so. So be careful. So much for me activley growing them all winter. Off the leaves come, and into the dark...lol Dave in nova, you are so right. They need to be sprayed with insectiside before brought in and before storing away, even if you take all the leaves off, so that when the new leaves start to grow in spring, there are no mites eggs to hatch and feast on anything. Hope everyone here is learning...Mike

Kiwi, the last one you linked IMHO, is one that solves many of the problems yet for me it is out of bounds for budget. I initially was not going for the silver/chrome family as I wanted some contrast, but I finally bought a chandy that I need to coordinate with. Going back to what BeesNeeds said, so many factors have to be taken into account. It is a very frustrating process, especially if you forget to take scrupulous notes while searching and have a strict checklist of what you need. I initially look at bulb type and will only consider LED or LED adaptable, then diameter, max wattage, whether there is a reflective material for the interior, whether it is opaque with some transparency and/or upward openings, and if there is a diffuser. My island is black walnut and sucks up light so it is imperative I get this right. I chose a cluster of clear globes for over the dining table so that dictates that I need to continue with a globe shape or similar. Though they are glass, there are chrome embellishments. I've wanted glass pendants but the light will be ambient unless there is an interior fitting to reflect some of the light down. Most that I have found are very small or if the size is close they are very expensive. What style and color family are you looking for? I think there are many of us that are having a difficult time with lighting and hope others chime in. I believe I have read every GW thread regarding lighting and have learned a lot, but maybe we should start a thread asking for examples of excellent pendant lighting.