I tried the metal tags and discovered that they are very difficult to read. I now am the very happy owner of a brother's P-touch labeler. I bought it just last summer so I'm not sure how long the printing will last. I have heard of the labels lasting for many seasons. I put the label on all those metal tags I bought.

The labeling tape has a peel off backing and stick great.

I worked at a hosta farm and they used the raised kind of labeler. These lasted a few years but faded and were not very attractive.

Thanks for the reply Rue. I was concerned that the metal labels may be difficult to read. I think I'll still try a couple just to see what I think. The P-touch looks like a nice labeler. I may try this as well. It looks pretty handy and I believe you can adjust the font size to allow for those long plant names. This would be handy to label seed pots as well.

This time of year when I'm not able to do much in the way of gardening I begin to think about little things like how my labels are disintegrating. Although, I've been able to go out a couple of times this winter and do some weeding.

Maybe my little xeric berm makes the white labels seem more prominent than a woodland garden may. What I'd really like for a label is something that looks like a little flat rock that would blend in with those that I mulch with.

Now that the important stuff is done (my NARGS seed order), I've been thinking about the successful labeling people here use:

A member in my NARGS chapter uses 5 inch metal popsicle stick shaped markers. She engraves them, and yes, you really canÂt read them unless you pull the marker out of the ground. On the other hand, they are far less obtrusive than any larger marker that you would be able to read. ItÂs a personal consideration. I suppose such a label could be larger, bent flat in front of the plant that might be to your liking.

I have another friend who grows mainly hostas, and also uses metal markers with a label on it. He uses a Brother P-touch too, and says it is the only one that is quite weatherproof. It seems to me that he uses a special weather resistant tape in the labelmaker, in addition.

For my larger plants (lilies, hosta, shrubs & trees) I make my own. I use Impresso-tags I get from Mellingers. They are relatively thin aluminum and can be indented as you write on them, so it is permanent because no ink is involved. From Home Depot I get #6 bare copper wire and cut it into 14 inch lengths. Make a small loop on one end that will accept the tage and then bend that end of the wire into a shepherdÂs crook, so the tag dangles when the straight end of the wire is poked into the ground. The idea is along the lines of what many arboreta use. In the fall, the shepherdÂs hooks can be pushed all the way into the ground in areas I mulch, so that the tags are not accidently raked up in the spring when removing the covering. It's all a bit labor intensive, but completely permanent. The copper shepherd's hook is reusable, and I get a lot of positive comments from visitors.

Advantage: aluminum doesnÂt rust(hardly). Disadvantage: aluminum doesnÂt rust(hardly). Before you decide IÂm a total whacko, let me explain:
Think of the shiny mylar tape that people dangle in the wind to scare off birds. Now think of a garden with a dozen or so dangling shiny tags, like twinkling lights on a breezy sunny winter day. Kind of Christmassy all through the cold season, but all that glitter is quite distracting. Still, pushing them to the ground surface resolves the matter.

Another Chapter member takes UV resistant plexiglass, and cuts it into label markers of whatever size he wants. He takes a clear label maker and and adheres the information to the marker, and than another piece of clear tape over the info so it is not subjected to weather. Very clever, and virtually disappears when stuck in the ground because it is clear.

Rick

Rick

Can I suggest you replace your bare copper wire with insulated copper, or aluminium welders wire. Aluminium, or aluminum if you prefer, corrodes where it is in contact with copper in the presence of moisture. Not too important for a year or so, but for long term labelling of trees or shrubs it will make a difference.

Brian

Good point, Brian. Thanks. Although, as I hadn't wanted to be too verbose in my post, I left out what I thought would be unimportant: connecting the aluminum tag with the copper shepherd's hook is another metal loop that allows the tag to dangle and makes easy reading. This is a non-corroding, stiff steel-like metal, although it has not rusted in 5 years. I suspect it is galvanized? Any reactions with zinc? Now that I think of it, I did run out of that wire, and made a few loops with aluminum wire too. Good thing you came along! Thanks again!

I have a suggestion for the aluminum labels...how about cutting up pop cans and making heart shaped tags or whatever shape you want!! I am going to try the copper wire and galvinized ring trick..thanks!!

At first I thought aluminum cans would be too thick and indenting the metal wouldn't work, but it does-although not quite as readable as the bought tags. You'll still need to deal with the sharp edges of cut AL. Quick use of a blow torch should solve that problem. Too bad you can't write on both sides of the AL can pieces like you can with the tags.

Great Ideas everyone thanks. I've checked out the labelers and will be placing an order for the P-touch 1000 next month when I have some more discretionary funds.

I'm particularly interested in the clear UV resistance label idea now. I'd have never thought of that. I even found clear tape for the P-touch labeler that I can order on line.

I have also been trying to come up with a decent lableing method. Heronswood uses very small plastic and metal tags with numbers embossed on them. These tags are attached to a 8 inch long metal rod (1/8th) that is pushed into the ground near the base of the plant. Of course that means keeping a corresponding database. But I really like the idea because it's unobtrusive. I priced out some machines that would impress numbers on a metal tape and they are prohibitively expensive. Then I read in this thread about using an engraver. What a great idea. Thanks!

jb

And you wouldn't have to use only numbers: the genus first letter and perhaps the first 3 or 4 letters of the species or cultivar or the like, just to jog your memory while you are outside enjoying the plant materials. That way, designations would not be totally greek to you(although they might be Latin).

Folks, I've ordered BLACK plastic labels for years-the only place to get them is from England, and only online through their site (they don't sell in retail outlets even in the UK!).

I adore them, because black totally DISAPPEARS into your garden! They have tons of shapes and sizes, and loads of other products as well. A bit pricey,due to shipping from the UK, but not onerously so. It is unbelievably worth it, to ahve neat black labels unobtrusively residing amid the foliage.

The Essentials Company,
April House, Davey Lane, Charsfield, Woodbridge,
Suffolk IP13 7QG, U.K.
Tel/Fax: 01473 737567 email us at info@theessentialscompany.co.uk

http://www.theessentialscompany.co.uk/Black_Labels.html

You have two options for labeling your tags:

1. A very fine point, white permanent Sharpie.
Not as permanent as I would like, (though holds up pretty well here in MD), and you should have neat handwriting and perhaps block print.

2. I'm about to buy the Brother PT1000 labeler, as I've been reading it stands up to heat, sun, frost, etc.

** I'll use BLACK tape, with white letters, stick it on my black plastic plant tags from Essentials, and see how that goes.

Cheers,

Merry

In my alpine and xeriscape I use flat rocks about 3" in diameter. The type used for skipping on water...only bigger and a bit fatter. These are grey (or can be another color as found in your area) to match your garden bed. I then write the names on the rock with a permanent garden marker pen and place them next to the plant. They are heavy enough not to disturbed by most activity. My 'labels' have lasted years. If one fades a bit after a couple years I simply pick up the stone and darken up the writing.

These rocks blend in fine with the plants and, because they are horizontal, easy to read.

Cost of labels = zero
Availability = limitless

A friend borrowed my label idea but added another feature. They labeled their whole garden. Instead of using black permanent ink they used multicolor permanent markers and wrote the name on the stone in the color of the bloom. This way they knew the color of their tulips, irises and so on.

Seems to me it would be a good idea to write on both sides of the rock no matter what, since it is usually the UV rays that fade the markings. When the rock becomes unreadable, and you're kicking yourself for not keeping track, all you'd need to do is turn over the rock, wash the dirt off and voila!

That's a good idea writing on both sides.

Another step to stop any fading is to simply brush a bit of clear exterior polyurethane across the writing with a brush or cloth. Takes 5 extra seconds and if you use 'matt' or 'flatt' finish it can't be noticed.

Ahhhh . . . matte finish. I was just about to say: "but then you would see a shiny part on the rock." You beat me to it. The polyurethene trick works well on helping to keep writing on metal tags from fading too. And especially if it UV ray resistant, although I would think all outdoor polyurethene is, at least to some extent.

We don't label plants because our garden/yard is so little (we can so far remember everything we planted and when) - But - the best preventative we have found for UV fading is a product called "303" (same as the Denver area code!). We have used "303" on all of our outdoor gear including water cans, patio chairs and a 17' touring canoe for the last 8-10 years. Our old rollup tables look better than our neighbors' tables which were bought last summer! A Google search on "303 UV protectant" will give you a bunch of resources.

Here is a link that might be useful: A link to 303 UV protectant

THANK YOU IRISGIRL!

I use cut up metal blinds marked with pencil. Cheap from second hand stores and the marking last a long time. My curent batch is pink on one side and white on the other. I thought I might hate the color, but the pink disappears when placed against the soil. The narrow blinds work best to hide the label.

I'm trying a paint pen (you get them at the craft store) on small, flat stones, sea glass and shells. Good idea to put it on both sides....just in case.

I use Cole's Aluminum Identification Markers. These are 1' x3'padded rectangles with 2 small predrilled holes. When you write on them, a permanent impression is made on the surface of the label. I use a regular pencil. The writing lasts because the impression is what you read-not the pencil mark. They come with soft aluminum wire for attaching. I couldn't live without them. The holes are easy to enlarge with a nail file point for use with heavier wire.
Coles Plant Soil Inc
Kent, Washington 98032