"I think the exact point of damage is based a lot on the condition of the buds when the lowest temps come, which I know you know, Olpea. A big part of the equation is the weather leading up to low temps, but I don't think anyone has a clear map of cause and affect here." Hman, That's what is puzzling (that, and rare reports of peaches fruiting following weather of close to -30F, which is so extreme it seems to defy reason). I know I posted this link last winter, but Penn State (see link below) claims flower bud damage is generally extensive at -10F (which is exactly what I experienced). Yet I've read from you (and others) of no problems at -10F. Last winter we hit the -10F in the deepest part of winter, when trees should have been in the deepest dormancy. As I recall, there were no warm days to de-harden trees prior to the low temps. It was just long steady cold. It seemed to me it was really one of the better winters to harden off peaches before minimum temps hit. Yet my peach trees didn't shrug it off, like the ones in your area do. I think you are right, no one really has clear map of cause and effect. "Of those that produced at the house for you this year can you share some insights on how well you and the family like each?" Hi cckw, As you know, we had a weird summer (weatherwise). We had lots of rain early on, then a period of very dry weather, then lots and lots of rain toward the end of summer. So much rain the grass didn't go dormant at all. Lawns were green down here, when they should have been brown. I think rainfall is the biggest factor affecting flavor for some varieties. I had posted a few weeks ago that later ripening varieties don't seem to be affected by rainfall as much, but not too long after I posted that, I picked Encore, and it was clearly affected by the rain. O'Henry (a late peach which ripens before Encore) was very good, even with all the rain. Redskin ripens a bit earlier (but still a late peach) and it was also very good, as was Carolina Gold. Contender ripened in the dry part of summer, so it was also good. Redhaven and PF7a ripened during some pretty good rains this year. Redhaven is a hands down better peach than PF7a, but during heavy rains it does produce some watery flavor diluted peaches in the more shaded parts of the tree. I hate to mention that because by far most of the peaches are very very good, but it happens. Still I think Redhaven is such a good peach, it deserves to be planted in the Midwest. Earlystar always ripens during the rainy/wet part of summer and is always a good peach for an early peach. It's hard for me to say what variety was the best because the first picking from the very top of the canopy almost always produces great peaches. But I suppose (of the varieties I've mentioned) this year Carolina Gold produced the most consistently best peaches throughout the canopy. I like it that they don't brown either. Our unknown variety (which we've adopted and re-named Tubby Dubby) is still the best (which is why we "adopted" it). It's almost a nectarine - very little fuzz. It was the very best this year but only produced a handful of peaches. Here is a link that might be useful: Grab Some Buds

Not listed here, which may or may not indicate they tried it and found it to be a failure on their site. Regardless of cultivar none of these hot climate trees are really happy here, training against a sunny wall with a protecting overhang could improve results. Elsewhere on the site they report "Productivity and disease susceptibility are the two major limiting factors in variety selection for peaches and nectarines in western Washington. Many varieties that do well in warmer areas are unproductive in the cooler marine climate of the Puget Sound region. So far in trials at Mount Vernon we have eliminated a number of poorly performing varieties. Some reliable producers have fruit that is not top quality. Showing good promise are several introductions from the Harrow, Ontario fruit breeding program, and some other new introductions from New Jersey, Michigan, and Georgia. Peach leaf curl, bacterial canker, brown rot and coryneum blight all attack peach and nectarine trees, so they are not good candidates for a no-spray orchard regime. Nectarines in particular can be subject to fruit cracking, which damages the fruit even if the cracks remain dry and do not develop rot" Here is a link that might be useful: Mount Vernon Northwestern Washington Research & Extension Center - Peach Cultivars & Selections 2007

It's doing good. It is a paler green than the one that has been in the ground but I think it was that way in the container. They both have peaches on them. I have had a lot of fruit drop on the peaches and apple trees though. I think it's do to the heat and probably normal.

Can you post pics of the local trellis? What I want to figure out is can you switch between the two styles. If so I would do both methods with extra space between the lines of the regular style. If you need to do something others won't you might want to try methods others won't. Maybe you will have better luck.