Q. about Bulrlap and Dormant Oil for winter

15 years ago

Hello

I have purchased a roll of burlap and a kit of dormant oil to protect my newly planted roses ( all from this spring and summer) during the winter time. The oil, the instructions say to use it in spring before the roses leaf out, however I read here on GW that some members use it in the fall....

Now I don't know WHEN to start the winter protection, everybody says when it's constantly below freezing. Well, it's not: it's freezing at night and thawing during the day...

However:

!) My roses still have their leaves on, and some have buds and flowering ( The fairy ( full of flowers) Sunsprite and Climbing America ( couple of buds)

2) Some are sick with Cercospora ( sp?) as they are full of black spots and circles, but not shading their leafs ( Sea Foam and Home Run rose, which was supporsed to be disease free)

3) Other have true blackspot ( Wild BLue Yonder, All Blaze) and/ or mildew ( Morning Red)

4) Others are healthy ( Fourth of July, Coral Dawn, Fairy)

Now,

I heard that Dormant oil helps with wintering, when to apply it, if there are still leaves on the plants?

I would like to wrap my bushes in burlap, as it is very windy here, when to do it? After the leaves are gone?

According to the long term forecast, we are expecting a very cold winter, with less snow than average, and with lots of Alberta Clippers ( these are huge drops in temperature, over short periods of time)

Thank you for reading this, I would appreciate any help!

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Comments (9)

User
15 years ago
well, I'm a bit warmer than you (zone 6) and I don't use dormant oil, but I do use burlap to protect my first year or slightly tender roses. I usually do this after Thanksgiving; some of the roses may have leaves, but not a lot of leaves. I have 2 techniques: 1. build a little cage out of stakes or chicken wire around the rose, then wrap this in burlap or 2. (my favorite): buy a bunch of those sturdy brown paper leaf bags. Cut out the bottom, so you have this sort of "tube". Put it over the rose and secure it to the ground with stakes. For an extra tender rose, I might add leaves or straw inside the bag, or even wrap the exterior with burlap. For tougher roses, the thick paper is enough protection against winds. I prefer this technique because its easier, and seems to work very well. Also, the bags are quite sturdy and I usually get a few years out of them.

Hope this helps, and hope somebody else can give you advice about dormant oil!
adiro
Original Author
15 years ago
Frances, thank you so much for your answer! The idea with the paper bags is awesome, I might actually give it a try, even if I don't think that my roses are particularly tender ( but I think everything is tender in their first year of life)!

I am thanking you and I am bumping up my own message as well, maybe someone kind could actually enlighten me as to the use of dormant oil in the fall, I bought it hoping that can make my roses be healthier the year that comes, I had so much pest and disease this year....
thank you again
Adi
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susan4952
15 years ago
I like to form a little cone shaped hut (TeePee)out of screening material. Fill with leaves or mulch with potting soil at base of roses and fasten ends with any wire threaded through both sides. This allows some airflow to the plant. I give them a mini haircut so they do not rock too much and the huts are shorter and easier to manage. I have wrapped my climbers in burlap,using the trellis or fence as an anchor point. The burlap is a soggy mess by spring. The weather will remove most of the leaves by thanksgiving. I allow them to go to sleep naturally and hope mother nature keeps them dormant until March...but I always have lots of die back. Wait another month
sunnishine
15 years ago
Dormant oil does not make anything go dormant.
I spray dormant oil after all the leaves are gone but before any new growth. That is January here but it might be feb when you are. It kills any leftover BS spores or other diseases that may be lingering on the bush waiting for spring.
dan_keil_cr Keil
15 years ago
Dormant oil is very hard to use. There can't be ANY freezing temps for 12-24 hours after you apply it. In the spring , new growth should not be started. My suggestion, get your money back on the dormant oil, and get some Manzate and spray the roses with that. It will kill the blackspot spores, then when you prune next spring, you will get rid of any spores that made it thru. Make sure to remove the diseased leaves out of the rose bed. I use a blower!
hup2345
15 years ago
I have an extraordinary results the past three winters using Wilt-Pruf. Very little die-back on some tender HT's, including Just Joey, Artistry and Moonstone.

That is all the the winter protection that I use.

I used to mound with straw and/or mulch. That worked fine. But, I no longer think it's necessary.
Terry Crawford
15 years ago
Hup2345-did you mix and apply the Wilf-Pruf according to the directions? How often did you apply and when? I have a gallon of concentrate and sounds like a great idea to me.
-terry
susan4952
15 years ago
I think I may add Wilt Pruf to my winter routine...seems like it would help to keep the plant hydrated and contribute to it's overall health during cold an wind. This will contribute greatly to MY emotional well being!
hup2345
15 years ago
Terryjean and Susan,

I dilute the concentrate as directed. I mix up a couple of gallons which covers all my broadleaf evergreens and roses. I apply it only once, in the 2nd or 3rd week of December depending on the weather. I live north of New York City. I wait until the lows are consistently below freezing. But, I think it's only important the the bushes are completely dormant.

This has worked very well for me.

Also, while I no longer mound, I do have a 2-3" layer of mulch in my beds. And my bud unions are buried.

Q. about Bulrlap and Dormant Oil for winter

Comments (9)

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adiro
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Q. about Bulrlap and Dormant Oil for winter

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adiroOriginal Author

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