Don't plant them all in one spot.The reason they tell you to plant so close is because you are supposed to lift the plants out and transplant them to bigger pots or directly into the garden (2feet apart). If you are starting seeds indoors, you can plant 2 seeds to a cell in those plastic cell packs, and thin to one healthy plant in each cell. Transplant outdoors when all frost is gone.

Your 8" pots will be far too small for mature plants. Consider them as an intermediate step for 'potting on' - meaning transferring seedlings to the next-size-up of pots. However, they might just do for the chives. Even one little bulblet will eventually propagate itself into a nice little clump, which (in the right growing conditions) will fill an 8" pot in no time flat. They do not 'meld together', as you say, although a heap of seedlings in one pot will give that impression. You can choose between transplanting one bulblet at a time, or transplanting the whole lot into a larger pot. Probably more aesthetically-pleasing to do the bulk move! In the right conditions, a mature basil can be the height of a child (say, about 10yo), and roughly the same width as its height. You'll have a hard time accommodating that in an 8" pot! When transplanting, select only the healthist-looking seedlings, and discard the rest, then put one seedling per pot. Of course, you don't HAVE to discard the weaklings - they can always go outside in the garden, where they'll probably do better than the ones inside. You're bound to lose a few, of course. Basil is an annual, and you can expect it to die come next cold season. Basil starts flowering from a very young age. You can try to remove the flowers to encourage more leaf growth, but when you discover a way to prevent it flowering more and more, please let me know! You can start re-potting your basil right now - they are a fast-growing, greedy plant and need space, full sunlight and heat to grow (that does NOT mean the filtered sunlight of a glass window, nor the reflected heat from glass which can easily burn the leaves). Don't start pinching back until you have, say, 10 pairs of leaves, and then just remove the top pair or two. Parsley doesn't like being transplanted, but you'll have to give it a go, as the current pots are miles too small. Don't pinch back parsley - let it do its own thing. Next time, put 2-3 seeds per pot (in which the mature plant will fit - ie 'sow in situ'), then discard the weaker two. Still, give it a go, remembering that parsley has a long tap-root that is easily damaged, and doesn't like being fiddled with. Parsley grows from the centre (think of an erupting volcano), so harvest the bottom, outside leaves, and leave the centre baby leaves to grow to replace the oldies. Remember, parsley is a biennial. In its second year the leaves become coarser in flavour, and the plant will go to seed. Let it happen. Treat Italian parsley in the same way, but remember that it will grow to a considerable (and, to a newbie, substantial) size that might just squeeze into your oven without too much scrunching when mature. Chives and parsley can both do well in partial sun, but basil needs full sun, and lots of it. All your plants will be much happier outside than in, and you can expect them not to grow to optimum size or quality in pots. When dividing seedlings, tap the starter-pot firmly but gently around the sides and bottom, and tip out the contents onto a table, laying the pot-shape on its side. Then carefully break away the surrounding potting mix to expose the roots of the plant. Carefully remove each seedling, being careful not to damage the roots - if they are pot-pound, you might have to do a bit of 'teasing' to disentangle them. Have ready-prepared another pot, with fresh potting mix, use a dibble-stick or your finger to create a hole deep enough to accommodate the entire root system, insert the seedling, then using your fingers only, gently tamp in the soil around it, making sure NOT to bury the plant any deeper than it originally was. (In other words, don't bury the seedling any deeper than 'the dirty line'.) Water in carefully, and Robert's the other son of your grandfather. In future, I suggest that you learn about your plants BEFORE you start them - mature size, growing conditions etc. But yes, you've experienced the delightful thrill of seeing something small and brown actually turn into a plant - and there's no better reward than that.

@nomen_nudum I can't begin to thank you, and for examples too!! The best! @ewwmayo lol I stay in zombie/mombie mode, totally understand! Also thanks on story comment, my sister tells me I read to much, and all my ig post sound like novel excerpts! @brenton2 thank you! Might need to do that 50/50 first cause of funds and time. It's encouraging to get nice choices from you guys!! @brad totally appreciate the id, if someone said a year ago I would be posting on a cactus and succulent forum for ids and advice I would have seriously laughed at them..jokes on me I couldn't quit checking at work, planning my next steps and researching! @kaktuschris wow you know me? I over think and analyze everything even walking ;) poor plants are in trouble! Then i over thought your comment and my response!! @Tahneal hopefully it's not a big deal and just part of their "Gollum" like quirky-ness or cuteness! Cause I definitely feel these guys are precious! So attached, love at first sight =) Thanks again to all!!! Good night

Very pretty blooms. They overwintered well and look like they are putting on a nice flush. You might add compost around each rose then put out a good mulch. Some of my beds have a shredded hardwood mulch and others have cyprus mulch. The difference is the hardwood mulch does not wash away. I wish I had used the hardwood mulch instead of the cyprus mulch because the cyprus washes so badly. If water runoff is no problem for you either would work just fine. Pay attention to other flower beds in your area and see if anyone is using something different.