skip to main content

Bare Root saplings

10 years ago

This past spring I planted 10 bare root northern red oak saplings along the edge of my property in various locations. 8 of the 10 seem to be ok - the other two have no growth whatsoever.

Here's a pic of two of the living...

Good leaf development this year but not much overall growth. Assuming this is due to transplant shock. Any thoughts on what I can expect next year for overall growth?

I do realize that I need to add some mulch again and do some weeding. I also know that there are many factors that go into how they will grow next year but just looking for thoughts from this group.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (7)

dalej01
Original Author
10 years ago
2nd example tree...

By the way, each tree is about 3 ft tall.

This post was edited by JD_MN on Mon, Aug 26, 13 at 16:41
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
10 years ago
super.. you win... 8 out of ten isnt bad ....

with 30 years of experience... i would be very happy with that rate ...

and ... well.. they are oak ...

they will look like this for another year or two .. and then.. slowly.. start taking off ...

you might want to figure out.. how to protect them in snow cover... i was always afraid of stepping on them .... perhaps a nice stake of some kind... simply put on say.. the north side.. so when you walk by.. you know where the tree is supposed to be... not that you need to tie it to the stake of anything.. just a location marker ...

ALL the important growth.. is underground .... and until it grows a root mass.. you arent going to see much above ...

growing trees.. has little to do with instant gratification .. lol.;. perhaps the understatement of the year... lol

water deep into fall ... insuring a nice moist soil ... too many peeps put away the hose at the first frost in mid oct.. and then ignore them until ground freeze in jan ....

they wont need a lot of water in nov... just make sure it isnt drought... with cold days.. and colder nights.. moisture is not going to be sucked out... so you wont need a lot ... and dont freeze them into an ice cube ...

congrats and good luck

ken
Related Discussions
Miracle Grow on Orchard Trees
Q
Comments (4)
It's awfully nice to have some ballpark figure of what's in your soil already. Over time P. can build up in the soil and block the availability of other nutrients. N. is all the young trees are likely to respond to. Your county cooperative extension can help you get your soil analyzed. You really have to know your soils pH at least. At any rate- two applications, one just as they show first signs of growth should be more than sufficient. More is not better as the N is only needed now for the first flush of growth.
...See More
Apple tree questions
Q
Comments (8)
Bob, Like other pointed out. A standard size tree can take 7-8 years to fruit. Even if you buy a 3-4 years old tree, you still have to wait (and pay more). I have a semi-dwarf Williams Pride apple that fruited in 2nd year. I personally like this vareity very much because it tastes good and is disease resistant. I'd suggest you check Adams County Nursery. When you open its web page, click on Order Fruit Tree. A list of fruit varieties will show. You'd check out the Disease Resistant section. There are a number of very good disease resistant apple varieties to choose from. They sell bare root trees but like I said, you probably could get fruit in 3 years. It maybe even faster than buying a standard, older tree that you still have to manage to get it smaller. Even if you don't buy bare root tree from ACN, you will have a better idea what varieties are more disease resistant. ACN is one of the many reputable nurseries people on this forum recommend. Good luck.
...See More
To Bare-Root or Not to Bare-Root...
Q
Comments (11)
Dan, I don't think the authors are recommending doing away with container-grown stock. I think they are saying that bare-rooting, as part of the planting process and done by people trained in doing it, has advantages (and disadvantages). They are going through the process to correct root problems caused by traditional growing methods, not to prevent the problems from occurring to start with. Also, I think most of the research and debate is concentrated on larger stock (mostly B&B), rather than smaller, containerized stock. The guy that brought this article back to my attention claims to be a totally supporter of bare-rooting smaller stuff, but has concerns about calls for doing it across the board for different species, to larger B&B material, and by the nursery industry with untrained labor.
...See More
How do you Tell a Root Flare from a Graft
Q
Comments (10)
That's one of the things I dislike about all the grafted stock out there-this very conundrum. As odd as it may appear, I think you're close to right-on for planting depth. If it were me, I'd use nothing other than organic mulching materials on top of that soil. BTW, I fully understand why trees are grown this way......the perceived need to produce a consistent product from plant to plant, the desire to have a predictable outcome with the scions used. But these grafts are not helpful in terms of planting depth and we all know of some cases where graft incompatibility wreaks havoc on the tree long after installation. The 'Autumn Purple' cultivar of white ash comes to mind, many trees declining and dying out long after being planted. At least for native tree types, I sure would like to see more seed-grown stuff. We could still have our consistency via making careful seed harvests from known good genetics. Some degree of variation would be healthy, after all. +oM
...See More
dalej01
Original Author
10 years ago
I hear ya Ken... I can't wait for them to be 5 ft tall next summer!!

Ok I'm completely kidding. Good to know that there may not be much growth in the next year or so. At least I won't start freaking out thinking I bought dwarf northern red oaks. Lol.

I'll keep telling those who question my idea to plant these (read wife) to just be patient and we will see rewards... Someday.
brandon7 TN_zone7
10 years ago
....or, you could tell her that you planted them and now it's her turn. She could weed them (to twice the diameter they are currently, or were at one time, weeded) and apply mulch (thicker along the outside / thinner nearer the trunk, with non or very little actually touching the tree).
dalej01
Original Author
10 years ago
Yep... I get it. I may need to weed and expand the mulch bed a bit before next summer's growing season. I check on them often and pull back the mulch that touches the tree.

I am watering them during hot/dry spells (like now) but let nature care for them whenever possible - i.e. when enough rain I leave them alone.

Thanks for the ideas to help these babies along.
nurseryman33
10 years ago
I would loosely put some window screen around the trunks up to the first branch to keep the critters away. If you have a rabbit problem you can put a big circle of 3' high chicken wire around each one.
dalej01
Original Author
10 years ago
I may have to do something like that... And soon. I noticed the other day that one of them (not pictured) was chewed down a bit by something - neighbor kids??? Kidding. Could have been a deer or bigger rabbit.

Interesting that the one that was gnawed down to about a foot height already has spurred some new leaves in the remaining trunk section. They are trying their best to survive!!

Related Stories

GARDENING GUIDES The Beauty of Bare-Root Plants

By Marianne Lipanovich

Plant dormant trees and shrubs in fall using the easy, affordable bare-root method and enjoy beautiful results in spring

ARCHITECTURE Roots of Style: Colonial Monterey Sets the Stage for Unique Design

By Steven Corley Randel, Architect

French, Spanish and English features mix in enigmatic Monterey-style architecture. Here's how to recognize this type of home

ARCHITECTURE Roots of Style: Do You Live in a Minimalist Traditional House?

By Steven Corley Randel, Architect

Cottages, bungalows, farmhouses ... whatever you call them, houses in this style share several characteristics. See how many your house has

ARCHITECTURE Roots of Style: The Eclectic American Foursquare

By Steven Corley Randel, Architect

The turn-of-the-20th-century style transitioned U.S. residential architecture from the Victorian era to the modern age

ARCHITECTURE Roots of Style: Spanish Colonial

By Steven Corley Randel, Architect

Authentic examples are rare and quickly disappearing, but its widespread influence continues to inspire modern interpretations

HOUZZ TOURS My Houzz: Highlighting Farmhouse Roots in a Seattle Suburb

By Kimberley Bryan

New and old mix with DIY touches in a remodeled 1928 home for a family of 6

CENTRAL PLAINS GARDENING Great Design Plant: Culver's Root

By Benjamin Vogt / Monarch Gardens

Spiky summer blooms beloved by butterflies and architectural interest in winter make this Midwest native plant worth featuring in the garden

GARDENING AND LANDSCAPING Geometry Roots Great Garden Design

To learn why some garden designs seem particularly pleasing to the eye, look to mathematical shapes and patterns

HOMES AROUND THE WORLD World of Design: A House That’s Barely There

By Susan Redman

A rural Australian home blurs the boundaries between indoors and outdoors, camping and permanence, privacy and transparency

GARDENING GUIDES How to Fix Bare and Yellow Lawn Spots

By Christine Tusher

Restore your turf’s good looks by reseeding unsightly patches

Sponsored

More Discussions

Weeping White Spruce Growth

15

Dappled willow tree damaged by deer

3

Japanese Maple for sun/shady deck

2

Is it normal for new trees to have 8"of solid clay in the root ball?

6

Sassafras Foliar Peculiarity

7