Literature examples of how complex fluazifop-p-butyl "science" actually is: The following quote is from the link below it: "While the findings support independent research, they contradict the purported herbicide characteristics by commercial sources grass selective, post-emergent, non-residual, rapid breakdown and active through foliar application only." http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6V5X-4VC743F-6&_user=10&_coverDate=04%2F30%2F2009&_rdoc=1&_fmt=high&_orig=search&_sort=d&_docanchor=&view=c&_searchStrId=1343979062&_rerunOrigin=scholar.google&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=04ca0a1795ac86555e182dcddd52018a ------------------------------------------------ Second example: Title: Mitotic changes in root meristems of Lens culinaris treated with fusilade (fluazifop-p-butyl). Authors: Aksoy, Ozlem; Ekici, Nuran; Dane, Feruzan. Authors affiliation: Department of Biology, Faculty of Science and Arts, Kocaeli University, Kocaeli, Turk. Published in: Asian Journal of Cell Biology, volume 3, pages 34-40, (2008). Abstract: "In this study the genotoxic effects of Fusilade (Fluozifop-p-butyl), a selective herbicide were investigated in the mitotic cell division in lentil (Lens culinaris Medik.) root tip cells. For this aim, different doses (0.25, 5, 1 and 1.5%) of Fusilade solns. were used. Root tips after having grown to a certain length were stained according to aceto orcein squash procedure and the no. of abnormal cells was counted in each phase of mitosis. The obtained results indicate that Fusilade had the ability to cause prodn. of a large no. of mitotic abnormalities. These abnormalities appeared in varying degrees depending on the dose. The types of abnormalities produced were laggards of the chromosomes, bridges, c-metaphase, stickiness, chromatin granulation and nucleus deformation. According to our findings we can say that Fusilade can produce neg. effects on mitotic divisions in lentil root tip cells." ---------------------------------------------- Third example: "The phytotoxicities of nine pesticides (paraquat, Xuazifop-p-butyl, haloxyfop, Xusilazole, cuproxat, cyazofamid, imidacloprid, chlorpyrifos, and abamectin) at practical dosages on photosynthesis were investigated in cucumber (Cucumis sativus L. cv. Jinyan No. 4) by gas exchange and chlorophyll Xuorescent measurements.". The conclusion section starts with: "As shown by declines in Pn after treatment (Table 2), all pesticides used in this experiment inhibited photosynthesis except for Xusiazole." The conclusion section ends with: "In conclusion, the data from this study demonstrated that pesticide application impairs the photosynthesis of cucumber seedlings. ........." http://www.sciencedirect.com/science?_ob=ArticleURL&_udi=B6WP8-4JDMTPV-5&_user=10&_coverDate=09%2F30%2F2006&_rdoc=1&_fmt=high&_orig=search&_sort=d&_docanchor=&view=c&_searchStrId=1344055715&_rerunOrigin=scholar.google&_acct=C000050221&_version=1&_urlVersion=0&_userid=10&md5=9dad48a835781e02ab465b9579f8d331 -------------------------------------------- AND "microbial activity of a soil": http://www3.interscience.wiley.com/journal/118602142/abstract

I have had the same issue with the native pecan trees, in Texas. The oak leaf hydrangea lasted three years. I love roses, but haven't tried them, yet. I didn't want liriope, but it moved in, and is doing quite well, much to my chagrin. But I have a thing about removing living things, so there they are! 😀 I've experimented with several native plants, and have found that yaupon, Turk's cap, (aka Mexican apple) does well, as do Christmas fern, St. John's wort, and artemisia. Daffodils, lily of the valley, and bearded iris have survived thirty years, with absolutely no help, as have the rosemary bushes. Oak trees, redbuds, and Eve's necklace have been next to the pecan trees, for thirty, to fifty years. Sadly, the mints, bee balm, and lemon balm only made it two years. On the upside, I've seen non-natives that have survived at least twenty-five years, such as Japanese boxwoods, nandinas, and ligustrums. The gardenia bush died within three months, even though I pampered it. Juglone is a real bugger, but the pecan tree is our state tree, the birds love them, and they provide a squirrel circus that is often hilarious! Loved your article, Hawkeye_Belle! I love roses so much, and I've spent thirty years wondering whether my pecan trees would do them in. You've provided some excellent information!

Thank you, Anna-Lyssa! Kes, the shrub between/behind Midnight Blue, Tradescant and Marie Pavie is Hydrangea mariessii Variegata. It will handle some afternoon sun in the PNW as long as it's well watered. It's also shielded somewhat by Buddleia Lochinch. There are a couple of starts of variegated Euonymus Emerald Gaiety in the bed as well. To the right. Carol

Not all grasses are the same, and Bermuda is probably one of the worst do deal with. (Our city promotes its use because it is cheap from seed, drought tolerant, will survive a nuclear bomb, etc... By the same logic, they should promote Cockroaches as house pets.) I hate Bermuda grass, in case you didn't figure that out. You are in a dry climate, and Bermuda grass runners can (and probably will) be over 8 inches deep where they are well protected from drought and heat extremes (including some of the treatments described above). They can run for several feet undetected before popping up and populating a new location in your garden -- in my case, among the cacti and agaves. (You haven't lived as a TX gardener until you've tried to extricate Bermuda grass from your agave bed... Extra points if fire ants are involved...) I hate to say it, but physical removal followed up with judicious applications of herbicide on stragglers that reveal themselves will probably be your best option. I have succeeded in completely eliminating the stuff inside of a year that way, but the bed preparation was pretty back-breaking. I don't recommend *spraying* herbicide. Get a cheap foam brush and paint the offending stragglers so as to avoid any overspray that might otherwise affect your garden, and make sure you have a deep physical barrier b/w the lawn and your flower beds. Bermuda is ruthless. Stay after it, and don't let it get ahead of you once you have your flowers down.