It's true. The fruit will be of variable quality and the seeds won't be true to type they will be hybrids. If you are going to plant self pollinating use only self pollinating of the same hybrid type. If you aren't using self pollinating then you will need different types to cross pollinate. In this case, people usually pick a type of persimmon because they like it's taste and so a similar tasting persimmon that ripens earlier or later than your favorite as the cross pollinator makes sense. In my case I was recommended, if I remember right, a Yates or a Prok, by this nursery: http://www.nolinnursery.com/Persimon.htm He is a Ag graduate from UK with many years of experience. So if I was like you I and wanted two trees I'd buy 2 Yates or 2 Proks. You should buy 1 or 2 or the same variety if they are self pollinating. I'm only buying one so I don't have that problem. I have a Black Gum (aka Black Tupelo) in my yard already and it's you've seen one you know they are closely related to persimmons. I'm not sure it they can 'cross pollinate' persimmons like donkeys & horse can cross breed though. Here is a link that might be useful: Nolin Nursery Persimmons This post was edited by AgroCoders on Sun, Jun 8, 14 at 3:09

Not commonly advertised in nursery catalogs, Reliance is extremely Black Knot susceptible, so hopefully that isn't a problem in your area like it is in mine. Quinces are often an overlooked fruit. There are many cultivars which are disease resistant. My favorite cydonian quinces are Champion and Portugal. They are extremely disease resistant, hardy, and bear quite well. There are a number of flowering quinces that grow well and produce good fruit, also. Flowering quinces need many hours of full sunlight per day in order to bloom. Cydonian quinces can be grown in full shade. There are many disease resistant European pears, such as Seckel which has added plus of being a natural semi-dwarf. When grafted onto a dwarf rootstock, it can be maintained at under 6 ft tall, while being loaded with fruit. You might want to check out One Green World or Raintree nursery, as they have a large selection of not so common fruits.

ok, i finally took a picture and uploaded it here: http://photos.gardenweb.com/garden/galleries/2010/09/can_i_plant_an_avocado_tree_he.html this is where i want to plant the Lamb Hass, in the far right corner of this terraced section behind my house. I would remove the dwarf lime tree that is there and plant the Lamb Hass so it would be 12 feet from the house but only 2 1/2-3 feet from the walls of the terrace. the back wall is very sturdy, the other two are less sturdy. Is this ok to plant here? If not, what about a semi-dwarf citrus or asian guava? thanks, ari ps: is there an easier way of adding an image? i find i have to post it elsewhere than link to it, which is very clunky considering the internet today. Here is a link that might be useful: picture of planting area

I was wondering about planting yaupons. Just not certain if their texture look will be compatable with the young Foster holly, pecan, and Shumard oak trees growing along the property line and almost 20 feet behind the once solid row of Loblolly trees. This vacant half acre lot where my loblolly trees in question, are growing is in Northeastern OK. The soil is a silty loam and situated only 2 1/2 miles west of the Arkansas River. The lot does not flood, but the fine grains of sediment which make up the silty loam soil cause the rain which falls upon the land and storm runoff which overflows the lot, to stay on the surface much longer and only perculate down into the soil slowly. That is, unless on parts of the lot where the elevation is so sloped that the water quickly continues on as fast moving, storm runoff. At the end of the line of loblollies, where the only two are growing fairly close, the water table seems higher, and over the last 4 years, these two loblollies have struggled from too much moisture in the soil during extended rain periods. These two loblollies had been planted at the same time as all the others, but due to their struggle to overcome the fairly high water table which begins to show up if one digs near them only two to three feet down, yet even more shallow, during extended slow rain events. These two trees have managed to survive, but are currently only about a third of the size to which the other Loblolly trees have grown. The soil under what used to be a double staggered solid looking row of Loblolly pines is slightly more acidic due to the pine needles that fell, in fairly small amounts, to the ground beneath them. I suspect the acid soil levels in that area will continue to elevate as the remaining loblolly trees begin their stage of dropping lower leaves and branches to form tall trunks beneath spreading pine needle canopies. Plenty of times the soil is moist, in the winter, spring, and fall, but there still are several months in the year when the soil condition would be too dry for most of the acid, damp soil loving flowering shrubs. and the area gets too much sun for many of those, which locally, need to be planted in morning sun and afternoon shade conditions I like the Magnolia suggestion, as long as it is a cultivar which will not overpower the lighter look of the loblolly trees. maybe Magnolias like the 'Jane' cultivar. Then again, I also like the look of Chaste trees. The only thing that has held me back from planning to use those is my concern over the fact that they go dormant, here beginning in late fall, through winter and the very earliest weeks close to spring. In fact the local chaste trees do not leaf out in our area again until mid to late May or early June. Our summer, 8, sun exposure zone is okay for the suggested wax myrtle. Still a little iffy, though. Especially when I consider our border winter temperate USDA Zone, where, even though our winter climate averages closer to the 7a USDA temperature zones, we still get plenty shots of colder low levels of the 6b temperate zone, which occur in waves of time most often during our January and early February winter period.