Each adult female lives for two weeks and lays eggs off and on.

It never ceases to amaze me as to how many uses some people seem to find for JB weld. Personally, I have never purchased a container of JB Weld so perhaps I am missing out on one of lifes miracles however, Over the years I have been called upon to repair problems that were at one time or another repaired with JB Weld or any number of other Epoxies, glues or tape of one sort or another. I find it most interesting to see where people have used one of those products to repair a sink tailpiece or P-trap, especially when one considers that you can purchase a new tailpiece or P-trap for about half the cost of a package of JB Weld. In regard to the use of JB Weld on a PVC or ABS DWV (drain, waste &Vent) pipe it must be remembered that both PVC and ABS have a very high co-efficient of thermal expansion and even though the JB Weld repair may seem ok at the time of repair or for a short period thereafter, the question is, can you stake your professional reputation on the fact that it will hold up for the life of the pipe, and not eventually break its adhesive bond from physical changes in pipe wall dimension? Keep in mind that even though the pipe is within the climate controlled portion of the structure nonetheless there are constantly air currents in the pipe which could draw in triple digit air in mid summer or sub-zero air in mid winter which would radically effect the pipe dimension. The prescribed method of repairing the pipe is to cut out the damaged section and replace it however if the damage is simply a minor hole or two inadvertently drilled into the pipe wall in a very close proximity it would seem silly to cut a major chunk of pipe out. In this case, if the three holes in question were only effecting a 3 or 4 linear inch section of the pipe which could be easily covered with a coupling the proper method would be to cut the pipe at a point where the coupling could cover all the damage, then shift one section of the pipe to the side and slip a "Repair Coupling" or a Fernco coupling on one section of the pipe, realign the pipes then apply primer and glue and slid the repair coupling into place or simply slide the Fernco into place and tighten the band clamps. NOTE: A common PVC or ABS coupling has a raised depth stop midway through the coupling to insure that both pipes are installed to the proper depth during installation. A "Repair Coupling" has no internal stop so it can easily be slid on one pipe, then when the pipes are realigned it can be slid back to the final position. Although definitely not code approved, in a worst case scenario I might be tempted to cut a repair coupling in half and glue it in place as was mentioned above, however I would also place a stainless steel band clamp around it. It was also mentioned above that they didnÂt think the problem was too serious because there was no "Stinky odor" coming from the pipe. Do not be lulled into believing there is no sewer gas leak because you canÂt smell it. Of the four principal gases that make up sewer gas, nitrogen, carbon dioxide, methane and hydrogen-sulfide, the first three are odorless asphyxiates. The fourth gas, hydrogen sulfide has a very strong rotten egg odor however in elevated concentrations it also has the capacity to quickly anesthetize the olfactory nerve thereby making further detection by smell impossible. In addition, both hydrogen sulfide and methane are flammable and in higher concentrations methane is explosive. (Methane is the base component of natural gas, in fact, in Michigan there is a commercial dairy operation that has installed digesters to convert the manure from their dairy herd into methane fuel to power engine driven generators to power the whole farm & dairy operation, and Windex has now tapped the methane gases from a nearby landfill to power one of their factories). As if these facts are not problematic enough, it must also be mentioned that some of these gases are lighter than air while others are heavier than air, therefore it is quite common for sewer gas to build up in a structure, but because of the specific gravity of the gases they tend to stratify near the floor or the ceiling and can go undetected for a long period of time. The bottom line, do not take any chances with leaks or dry traps in a DWV system.

besides that, the DRAIN PIPES are supposed to be hand tight, not sealed. next time you get a clog you will have to cut it all out and redo it, thus costing you 2x what it would if done the correct way.

My appliances (DCS, Thermador, Miele, Kitchenaid) are 17 years old. Still work, but makes no sense to be locked into their dimensions for a complete remodel. LA area - my local high end appliance store gave me the name of a company that buys used appliances. Haven't called them yet. I will also be checking with the closest Habitat Restore donation center to see if they are interested and if they would come pick them up. If none of those work, I'll just let the GC remove and dispose whatever way he wants.