Lasagna around existing shrubs?
jannoel_gw
17 years ago
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donn_
17 years agoKimmsr
17 years agoRelated Discussions
Landscaping around Existing Tree
Comments (13)Don't paint yourself into a corner! Since you gave us no detail or even a photo of the house, my depiction of it on the lot was one big guess. How did I get so close? Modern lots almost never have a front building setback less than 25ft. And a developer will resist increasing the setback on 75 by 133ft lots as the backyard gets squeezed and the longer driveway cost goes up with length. Normal construction on lots with some cross slope is to put the drive on the high side. The house is normally set near the setback to minimize the drive cost and the shape of the front of this lot works better with a house with a protruding garage. Starting from the back with the 50ft given to the house, adding my guess as to house depth and a guess of the garage protrusion, I have a bit of extra space to the setback. It made me wonder if the 50ft back yard was a measured dimension or a guess. So now I have the whole lot and the first thing I look at is the drainage. In the backyard I'm guessing the water now flows across the yard over a wide area as sheet flow without any problems of erosion. Regardless of what you do in the backyard, water will have to continue to cross the back yard. Consider the outcome if you start planting trees. Suppose in the future you build a nice patio and take up a good part of the 50ft yard. In the profile below note that the grade from the patio will have to slant down and if the trees are planted on a downslope from the property line, then you have concentrated all the drainage to a much smaller area. This could result in wet spots or erosion. You would be faced with the lesser of two evils; live with the problem or tear out the trees and regrade. It's better to consider the whole of the backyard and any future uses. Make sure the grade and drainage support your long range plans before you start planting grass and trees....See Morecan you lasagne around existing plants?
Comments (3)Why do you think you need to improve the soil in this bed? If the lavender is doing well, did not the other herbs? Most perennial herbs tend to prefer lean but very well draining soil. The addition of much organic matter often results in a soil that is more rich than they prefer and also more moisture retentitive. Herbs like thyme, oreganos, savory, rosemary and sages are happiest in lean and rather infertile sandy or even rocky soil that stays relatively dry or at the very least, is very fast draining. If the lavender is happy, these should be also. Chives will grow anywhere :-) Annual herbs like basil and cilantro and the biennials like parsley will tolerate much richer and moister soils - sometimes it is better to grow these in a separate area (like with veggies) or in containers....See MoreLasagna garden around existing trees
Comments (22)You should search for several previous threads on gardening under trees--also Google results. The silver maple is a real challenge, but things like hostas, bulbs, daylillies, some groundcovers and other things can work. Most success is had with planting in small pockets and with plants that tolerate dry conditions (hostas will do so once established and if not in sun). What you need to remember about planting under a tree with aggressive surface roots is not just the idea of adding thin layers and using loose organic materials (shredded leaves, grass clippings, fine bark) rather than dirt--although I would not recommend placing 6 inches at once--it's that you won't ever build up significant depth of good "soil" because the tree will extend its root system into what you layer on top of it. So your resulting bed will always tend to be a mat of roots and will not turn into inches of nice loam as will a regular lasagne bed elsewhere. So when you add a layer of mulch, it will be a layer of mulch at first, into which you typically can't plant much, and then a year or so later, the broken down part will be tree root heaven. Another unintended consequence that you should be prepared to deal with is that weeds will grow better the more you improve the soil surface, and will often grow better than what you want planted, so sometimes you turn a bare-ground, rooty area eyesore into a weed patch eyesore by adding more nutrient material to the surface. Also, the maple whirlies will take root easier. So, take a look at what part of the bed will be mostly silver maple, versus other, and don't plan on any kind of lush flower garden under the maple. Another idea to consider is using containers under the trees. Sometimes you can establish a groundcover for unity (tying the trees together) and then nestle in container plantings, both for height, and because by avoiding root competition you can grow a lot of things--shrubs, annuals, perennials--that you could not grow directly in the ground....See MoreImproving soil (existing shrubs)
Comments (4)What you call "weeds" (unwanted plant growth) will grow anywhere steps are not taken to keep them under control. Many of these "weeds" can be indictor plants, telling us about problems with the soil it we pay attention and read them, and many of those "weeds" are wild flowers. Improving the soil should begin with a good reliable soil test so one would know the soils pH and major nutrient balance as well as the amount of organic matter in the soil so the existing shrubs can grow in a healthy environment. Adding organic matter, in the form of mulches, will help keep any unwanted plant growth under control, but will not totally eliminate them. Mulches can help suppress unwanted plant growth, help maintain soil moisture levels, help keep soil temperatures moderate, and add organic matter to the soil, but they will also create conditions that may allow unwanted plant growth....See Morereginacw
17 years agojannoel_gw
17 years agobrdldystlu
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17 years agojeannie7
17 years agoPam Honeycutt
17 years agoKimmsr
17 years agogardnpondr
16 years agorichdelmo
16 years agopablo_nh
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