Hi Lucy, Thanks for your reply. I was really hoping to learn from your expertise in bonsai art after reading your other replies to fellow bonsai enthusiasts. After reading your mail, I simply refused to give up the Satsuki azalea. I bought some new soil (for tropical bonsai), rapeseed cake organic fertilizer, and Schultz insect spray from the Bonsai Boy.com. I have since then placed the satsuki azalea outdoor as the Spring is finally here in CO. I put a layer of new soil on top and water the bonsai regularly. The bonsai seems to spring back to life, as I can see new shoots and leaves are coming out of those previously broken branches. I have also not seen any bugs after using the insect spray. However, most leaves still looks dried and blacken to some extent. Some even curled up which I don't know why. Maybe you can help explain this to me? Also, I bought a Dwarf Jade bonsai recently from the same online company, I found some little bugs resembling tiny flies after 2 days the bonsai arrived. I wonder if the bonsai is already infected with bugs before it was sent to me. Nonetheless, I quickly sprayed some Schultz insect spray on the Dwarf Jade. It doesnÂt seem to eradicate the bugs totally and the leaves are starting to fall off (eventhough the leaves still look nice and not dried). I water the plant 3 days once as according to the instruction sheet. Please let me know what you think of this situation I am having now. Thank you very, very much for your time.

Yellowing of a leaf between dark green veins is called chlorosis and is usually caused by an iron deficiency. Many conditions can be responsible for an iron deficiency. Poor drainage, planting too deeply, heavy soil with poor aeration, insect or fungus damage in the root zone and lack of moisture all induce chlorosis. After these conditions are eliminated as possible causes, soil testing is in order. Chlorosis can be caused by malnutrition caused by alkalinity of the soil, potassium deficiency, calcium deficiency, iron deficiency, magnesium deficiency or too much phosphorus in the soil. Iron is most readily available in acidic soils between pH 4.5-6.0. When the soil pH is above 6.5, iron may be present in adequate amounts, but is in an unusable form, due to an excessive amount of calcium carbonate. This can occur when plants are placed too close to cement foundations or walkways. Soil amendments that acidify the soil, such as iron sulfate or sulfur, are the best long term solution. For a quick but only temporary improvement in the appearance of the foliage, ferrous sulfate can be dissolved in water (1 ounce in 2 gallons of water) and sprinkled on the foliage. Some garden centers sell chelated iron, which provides the same results. Follow the label recommendations for mixing and applying chelated iron. A combination of acidification with sulfur and iron supplements such as chelated iron or iron sulfate will usually treat this problem. Chlorosis caused by magnesium deficiency is initially the same as iron, but progresses to form reddish purple blotches and marginal leaf necrosis (browning of leaf edges). Epsom salts are a good source of supplemental magnesium. Chlorosis can also be caused by nitrogen toxicity (usually caused by nitrate fertilizers) or other conditions that damage the roots such as root rot, severe cutting of the roots, root weevils or root death caused by extreme amounts of fertilizer. If the soil is too alkaline, acidity may be increased by adding flowers of sulfur (powdered sulfur) or iron sulfate. I add 1 tablespoon of sulfur powder around the base of any plant showing signs of chlorosis. Around established rhododendrons and azaleas, do not disturb the shallow roots. Sprinkle the sulfur under the mulch and then replace the mulch. Do not use aluminum sulfate. Aluminum can build up in the soil to toxic levels eventually. One very common source of chlorosis is when lime leaches out of concrete, such as from a foundation or walkway, making the nearby soil more alkaline. This problem decreases each year as the concrete ages. An annual application of sulfur can compensate for this problem. If you are on the west coast, you soil can actually be too acidic. If soil is too acid, the symptoms can be the same. Very acidic soil can prevent the roots from taking up nutrients. In the western USA where many rhododendrons are planted in very acidic forest soil, an application of Dolomite and a light topdressing of mushroom manure in late spring is all they need. Sprinkle the lime on in late winter, very early spring. Don't overdo it - just a light sprinkle. If it is mid-spring, get the lime on right away so the rhododendron roots will be able to take up the soil nutrients in time for new growth. If you don't have rain, water it in well. Here is a temporary tonic for chlorosis: Purchase a bag of Epsom Salts crystals (magnesium sulfate) (available in bulk at farm-and-feed outlets), and a bottle of FULLY Chelated Iron & Zinc (this is a very concentrated liquid - the chelation means it is in a form that can be readily absorbed by the plant); In a one gallon watering can, put in 2 Tbsp. of Epsom Salts crystals and 2 Tbsp. of Iron and Zinc liquid - fill with warm water and stir to dissolve; Sprinkle this over the rhododendron - by that I mean drench the leaves with the solution and pour the remainder around the drip line of the root ball.

It's hard to be sure without a photo, but while azaleas do get rust, I suspect you are seeing lace bug damage. Why don't you do an image search and compare to the symptoms your plant is exhibiting.... Let us know if that isn't it, we'll go from there. Here is a link that might be useful: UC Davis Pest Notes - Lace Bug

If you put it by the window and in the house. it will be dead and you cannot revive it once the soil dry it gone and over watering again lead root rot and if you plant near any appliance or vent it will kill it. azalea only need 4-5 hr of morning sun and the rest shade. when it is in blooming only water at the root. when you watering plant look at your environment and see if you have wet climate or dry if dry water everyday if wet water every other day but your soil have to drain fast out the pot if you water everyday.